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Thread: Ruger NM Blackhawks in 45 Colt with a 45 acp cylinder vs. a plain Ruger NM Blackhawk

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    My convertible Blackhawk is generally a pretty accurate revolver. The MOST accurrate load is 45ACP with 200 grain SWC bullets. Hardness doesn’t seem to matter much and pretty much any published load I have tried works great. I have settled on 4 grains of Bullseye with great results.

    Mike

  2. #22
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    Joe, call him and tell him you have $600 in cash but be prepared to give up the other $75. You wont be hurt at what he asked but cash does the talking, after all.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  3. #23
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    I bought a Lipsey's Limited Edition New Model Flattop Blackhawk Convertible several years back, honed the throats in both cylinders to .4525" took all the creep out of the trigger, swapped in a Wolff 30oz. trigger return spring, recut and polished the forcing cone on 11 degrees, listed it for sale with described improvements, COA, etc, just made a real nice real accurate package out of it. It sold in about 2 hours I think for $675.

    5 years later the original buyer messaged me asking about value for resale, I didn't blink an eye, bought it back from him for $750, sent him a MO and never looked back!

    Currently Lipseys prices for the same limited edition convertible 45s are hovering around $1100 last I checked.

    The Lipsey's guns are fitted and finished a tad bit better than stock production guns, they are "picked" over to satisfy Lipsey's criteria, they are really sweet guns with .452" throats but still benefit from having throats honed another half thou and probably could benefit from forcing cone work, and certainly could benefit from removing the creep from the trigger and using the Wolff trigger return spring.

    Once you have this done to a standard/stock production gun, accuracy will be very comparable to the Lipsey's gun provided the barrel is free of any thread choke at the frame.
    Last edited by DougGuy; 09-15-2022 at 12:23 PM.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by murf205 View Post
    Joe, call him and tell him you have $600 in cash but be prepared to give up the other $75. You wont be hurt at what he asked but cash does the talking, after all.
    I am still considering calling him. Only reason I have held off was because I know that once I get it in 45 Colt I will go whole hog. I already have a stainless steel Lipsey Ruger NM Blackhawk in 44 Special that is my favorite revolver. Up to now I have just reloaded a few rounds for one of my cousins. I did some bullet swapping - my cast 38 swc's for a buddy's 45 swc's. But if I jump into it I will be getting a good mold, and then devote a pretty good spell to working up loads. And prior to that I expect I will need to get a good spring kit; unless this one is the exception to the rule that Rugers have heavy triggers. And further, after I check the bore and the chamber throats I may be calling DougGuy.
    Britons shall never be slaves.

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeJames View Post
    I am still considering calling him. Only reason I have held off was because I know that once I get it in 45 Colt I will go whole hog. I already have a stainless steel Lipsey Ruger NM Blackhawk in 44 Special that is my favorite revolver. Up to now I have just reloaded a few rounds for one of my cousins. I did some bullet swapping - my cast 38 swc's for a buddy's 45 swc's. But if I jump into it I will be getting a good mold, and then devote a pretty good spell to working up loads. And prior to that I expect I will need to get a good spring kit; unless this one is the exception to the rule that Rugers have heavy triggers. And further, after I check the bore and the chamber throats I may be calling DougGuy.
    Before you go the spring kit route, try this: Remove the grips and you will see the coil mainspring is connected to the frame via two cast in lugs on the grip frame. Take a small screw driver or a punch and flip one of the spring legs off the lug and replace the grip. You will drop the trigger pull by half and the ignition won't be affected one bit.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Char-Gar View Post
    Before you go the spring kit route, try this: Remove the grips and you will see the coil mainspring is connected to the frame via two cast in lugs on the grip frame. Take a small screw driver or a punch and flip one of the spring legs off the lug and replace the grip. You will drop the trigger pull by half and the ignition won't be affected one bit.
    Yep, "poor man's trigger job"; I did that on my Ruger Wrangler - I could not see putting extra money into it. I dropped the trigger pull by about half. I agree it does not effect the ignition as the hammer spring is unaffected. There is another reason to at least start with that. I replaced the trigger spring with on the blued Lipsey Ruger with a spring from Wilson (Arkansas made after all), and changing it out is not for the faint of heart. And then, I swapped my blued Lipsey Ruger Blackhawk with my cousin for a stainless Lipsey Ruger Blackhawk; since he was not going to keep it, I swapped out the Wilson spring in the blued one back to the factory spring, and then replaced the factory spring in the stainless Lipsey Blackhawk with the Wilson spring. I know I have spent some time explaining it, but it certainly does not compare to how much time I actually spent on both taking them down and putting them back together.
    Last edited by JoeJames; 09-15-2022 at 02:41 PM.
    Britons shall never be slaves.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeJames View Post
    I am still considering calling him. Only reason I have held off was because I know that once I get it in 45 Colt I will go whole hog. I already have a stainless steel Lipsey Ruger NM Blackhawk in 44 Special that is my favorite revolver. Up to now I have just reloaded a few rounds for one of my cousins. I did some bullet swapping - my cast 38 swc's for a buddy's 45 swc's. But if I jump into it I will be getting a good mold, and then devote a pretty good spell to working up loads. And prior to that I expect I will need to get a good spring kit; unless this one is the exception to the rule that Rugers have heavy triggers. And further, after I check the bore and the chamber throats I may be calling DougGuy.
    When you speak of getting a good mold, you don't have to spend a fortune for one that has surprised me, anyway. It is the 252 Lee swc, and it has produced results equal to better than, the custom molds I have used. The 45 cal 200gr RF Lee has a pretty steady following as well. AND...they come with handles. Working up the loads for a new wheel gun is 1/2 the fun.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by murf205 View Post
    When you speak of getting a good mold, you don't have to spend a fortune for one that has surprised me, anyway. It is the 252 Lee swc, and it has produced results equal to better than, the custom molds I have used. The 45 cal 200gr RF Lee has a pretty steady following as well. AND...they come with handles. Working up the loads for a new wheel gun is 1/2 the fun.
    I expect you mean a Lee 452 mold. I have a similar mold but for 44 Special, and without checking I think it is styled the Lee 430 240 TL SWC mold, and it is fairly inexpensive. The bullets I have cast with it are in my opinion more accurate than any commercial cast bullets I have tried, or at least as accurate as commercial cast bullets.
    I also cast similarly configured Lee TL molds for 32S&W Long SWC's, and for 38 Special SWC's (I also have a Lee double cavity mold for 38 button nose wad cutters). I am taking my time, possibly because I'd rather have stainless than blued, and also because I am of pedigreed hill farmer stock who have mostly inhabited the southern highlands from VA to NC to NW Georgia, and on to the Ozarks before and just after the War. We tend to be close with our money.
    Britons shall never be slaves.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    "We tend to be close with our money." Me too, mainly because I don't have a lot of it. I have had very good luck with the Lee molds in both 44 and 45 cal. I have some custom molds but I never ran across a gun that cared how much a boolit mold cost! A lot of people bash Lee's but I'm thankful for them. I wish they would make 4 cavity molds.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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GC Gas Check