WidenersLoad DataRepackboxMidSouth Shooters Supply
Inline FabricationRotoMetals2Lee PrecisionReloading Everything
Titan Reloading
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 21

Thread: My new 686

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    945

    My new 686

    So my new 686-6 came today, did a pretty thorough inspection.
    First the good:
    Barrel looks straight, no can't.
    BC gap is .006, Crown looks nice
    No detectable end shake, Lock up is tight

    The Bad:
    Trigger is lacking, I thought the Smiths were suppose to have the best triggers
    Single is #5 5oz and double is #11 12oz, creepy and really stacks.
    Next, all the chambers measure uniform but are way to small.
    In the pic the cast boolits are .358, the plated bullet is .357, I can not force them in the chambers.
    With the calipers the chambers measure .355
    I have some 9mm boolits that measure .3555 and are a perfect finger press fit.
    With Calipers the Muzzle measures .353
    Don't want to send it to S&W.
    I will do the trigger myself, however is it Doug Guy that does cylinder work?

    Would you try to shoot it as is ?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20220902_143420.jpg   20220902_141557.jpg   20220902_141446.jpg  
    Failure is not an Option

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    I never found new s&w triggers to be that great. I do have an older model 57 that is really good. Any revolver SA trigger can be made very good with some work.

    As far as I know Dougguy still fixes cylinders. I would definitely shoot it first with factory ammo though to make sure everything works as it should. Inspect the barrel rifling too to make sure that is good.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Daekar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
    614
    Watching. I am surprised the muzzle is so tight.
    I'm a big fan of data-driven decisions. You want to make me smile, show me a spreadsheet! Extra points for graphs and best-fit predictive equations.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Dead center of Alabama
    Posts
    2,367
    hylander, if you can, by all means slug the cylinder throats and barrel with a soft cast boolit then measure with a micrometer (or order some pin gages). I never got good results with a caliper but I know that newer Smith & Wesson guns measure tight. By all means shoot it first because if you send it back to the factory they will tell you "it is in spec" as long as it goes bang even if it is in warranty. My 686 no dash has .357 cylinder throats and it is as accurate as any gun I own and more so that most. If it leads and is inaccurate, DougGuy can fix the cylinder for a very reasonable cost. As far as the trigger goes, a lighter rebound spring can help. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Central Iowa
    Posts
    1,427
    As long as the bore is tighter than the throats you might just be fine. Trigger pull sounds normal other than stacking. Try a lighter trigger rebound spring and it’ll drop a pound or 2.

    I wouldn’t make any permanent alterations until you shoot and and identify an actual problem.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    757
    Make sure it's lubed and dry fire the snot out of it, DA and single action. It will smoothen up some and you will smooth up also.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Lenore, WV
    Posts
    2,840
    I would shoot it first, I think you will be surprised. It will probably be ok with jacketed and gas checked boolits. You may see leading if you run hot loads with plain base lead boolits.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    west central Illinois
    Posts
    7,699
    I have an older model 60 that has dimensions like that. Very tight and slightly undersized everywhere.
    It shoots fine. Very accurate and no leading.
    The dimensions don't tell the whole story.
    As long as the barrel is tighter than the chamber throats you shouldn't have any issues.
    Definitely try shooting it before any modifications.
    The trigger is an easy fix with springs and shooting it.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    945
    I took it apart last night.
    Polished a couple of areas and removed the lock plate. Trigger is still horrible.
    Will hit the range in the morning.
    Loaded up some .358 plain based swc on top of 7.4 of BE86.
    So these are .001 larger than the chambers.
    Failure is not an Option

  10. #10
    Boolit Master gc45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    wash
    Posts
    523
    I would not worry about the bore or muzzle dimension, it is fine unless Smith just really goofed big time but doubt that. The cylinder throat is where you want to be right on and just so its slightly over the barrels groove size. Shove a fishing lead sinker #9 down the muzzle then measure it carefully, much more accurate that way. Do the same to the throats, using another sinker and if the throats are slightly larger than the groove I'd shoot it as is. The triggers on Smiths are easily made better with a new spring kit for the hammer and trigger, also easy to install; just look on Utube, there is a great how to there and, Brownells.com has the kits for this..

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    298
    When I picked up my -6, I was a wee bit let down with the trigger. I guess I was just expecting better from my first new Smith. My FFL guy is an old friend, and I told him I thought the trigger on an old M60 I have felt much lighter and smoother. He said let me see that thing, and grabbed a screw driver. He took the grips off and showed me a small screw in the front of the grip frame. He backed it out like a half or 3/4 turn, did it before I could get a look so I'm not sure of EXACT amount, he called it "a half turn or a bit more".. He put grips back on and handed it back to me and said try it now. It was noticeably improved. It's called a strain screw and I think it puts pressure on the mainspring.
    He said as it wears in it will get better still, and if I get many or any misfires to just turn it back in a wee bit.
    I don't have a trigger scale so I'm just going by feel but I've never tightened it back and I think it has a very good trigger(for a stock trigger).
    You might give that a try, you can always tighten it back if you don't like it or get light primer strikes.
    I'm really glad he showed my that.
    If I were you, I'd try the screw and go shoot it.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    945
    Slugged the chambers @ .357
    Slugged the barrel but no good way to measure size as it is a 5 groove, but the slug drops right through the chambers.
    I think I felt a bit if throat constriction.
    Will see if it leads up, if so I’ll hand lap the constriction.
    Failure is not an Option

  13. #13
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Dead center of Alabama
    Posts
    2,367
    Before you hand lap anything, try powder coating. Like I said, my no dash 686 has .357 throats and that's what I size to (because that is what it is going to exit the cyl anyway) but I pc before sizing. PC'ing will solve SOME problems but it is worth a try if you have leading and don't want to ream or lap. I guess you are talking about hand lapping the cylinder throats, right? Did the barrel have any tight spots when you slugged it?
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    945
    Quote Originally Posted by murf205 View Post
    Before you hand lap anything, try powder coating. Like I said, my no dash 686 has .357 throats and that's what I size to (because that is what it is going to exit the cyl anyway) but I pc before sizing. PC'ing will solve SOME problems but it is worth a try if you have leading and don't want to ream or lap. I guess you are talking about hand lapping the cylinder throats, right? Did the barrel have any tight spots when you slugged it?
    Hand lapping the tight spot in the barrel.
    I am going to order some SNS poly coated.
    Failure is not an Option

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    945
    Back from the Range.
    She did good, only shot in single action as trigger is still horrible.
    I have already ordered a Wilson sping kit and am going to order a fiber front sight, I'm thinking green.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20220905_105125.jpg  
    Failure is not an Option

  16. #16
    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    1,975
    A lot of times things will smooth out with use. Load up some snap caps, watch a movie and operate the trigger, it will make the action smoother and make your finger stronger to boot.
    I have done this with lever actions, not dropping the hammer but just operating the lever to smooth them out.
    Mechanical action tends to smooth out grittiness.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Dead center of Alabama
    Posts
    2,367
    That's a good looking group and shooting. Any leading? Are you going to hunt with it? My old worn out eyes see the green better in low light against fur coats best.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Mansfield, PA
    Posts
    725
    hylader,

    My 686 is my daily farm carry gun. If it is NEW, shoot your 686 a few hundred times to smooth out the action. In the early 1980s, I attended S&W's armorer's school twice. The second time I built 5, 3-inch .357 revolvers, one was my duty gun until I retired from federal service.

    Revolvers smooth up with use. Too many folks fire a dozen rounds and call it good. Tool marks do work out in time. Go shoot a lot.

    Be well.
    Adam
    Last edited by Adam Helmer; 09-07-2022 at 01:16 PM.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Eastern WY
    Posts
    1,959
    Lots of dry firing, use snap caps, at least fired empty cases. See how fast you can click 50 times, left handed, right handed, just working the trigger, smooths action and builds hand strength. A few thousand will smooth things out.

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    9,254
    I would carry that one up the river to Clark Custom Guns and have them do their magical Trigger Job ... then live happily ever after ...

    That one wants to shoot ... see how the holes want to touch each other ...You did Good !

    SWEET !
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check