Could you post some close up pics of your mold block faces and the top of the mold blocks closed with the sprue plate open? Not looking for microbes but need to see detail.
Could you post some close up pics of your mold block faces and the top of the mold blocks closed with the sprue plate open? Not looking for microbes but need to see detail.
Including everything else to cure wrinkles I found "Heating the Spru Plate" in this chapter of Glen Fryxell's book:
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chap...dleMusings.htm
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
From Ingot to Target gave me the idea of putting the mold into the pot bottom side up to heat the sprue plate. That works too.
Britons shall never be slaves.
If you haven't used 5744 before, be aware it does not burn completely. There will be un-burned kernels in the barrel and chamber. In my 50-70 trapdoor and 43 Spanish I tilt the barrel down and give a big puff in the chamber to blow out the kernels. If not I get a dented case on the next round. The double rifles I load 5744 it's not as big a deal. Opening the barrels, the barrel drop and hitting the max open seems to knock most if not all the kernels out.
At one time Accurate had a warning in their literature to be aware of the incomplete combustion.
Crazy part is how well 5744 can shoot, even with the "stuff" left in the barrel.
I've been shooting it for almost 30 years, wouldn't have even tried it but came across 3 pounds for $10, total. It was sitting on the shelf in a party store that occupied the building of a defunct gun shop. Apparently the prior owners had left it there and the new owners were trying to just make it go away with out throwing it in the trash.
Bummer that it is now hovering around $50 a pound.
RobP1 is this fun and challenging or what??? I wish to God I had gotten into casting a long time ago. Of the whole reloading process, casting my own bullets seems to light the old fires better than anything else. Of course actual shooting is way more fun, but dang...there's just something about casting.
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
And very likely cheaper and lubed better and with a superior alloy. Many commercially cast bullets are super hard and use a super hard lube, that way the bullets survive the retail experience of shipping stocking, etc..and aren't dented and abraided. The super hard alloy and lube are usually less than optimal for anything other than punching targets. ( they may not expand as well on game..and may require more cleaning ). Your home cast with hand touched alloy, size and a better lube are just all around better usually.... They just have to set in a jar or box till needed..not shipped 1000 bumpy miles and handled by 32 people before you buy them and bring them home.
Last commercial cast I bought were 22 hardness and had a hard green lube..harder than candle wax..could have been straight melted green crayons for all I know. I shot and dug a few out of a berm, no lube left..didnt like that.. So I aloxed them so I didn't have to clean lead out of may barrel.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |