Marlin 93 38-55, tell me about it.

[rosewood]

Firing pin broke and I ordered 2 of them since I found out it is the same for my 1895 and 336. Figured out the pin had been "repaired". I think someone welded a new tip on it, but didn't fit it right. The tip still protruded a bit when the slide was back. Got new one fitted and it is 100% better than the old one. Now I am waiting on my mold to cast some boolits and a expander ball to convert 30-30 brass to 38-55 for my initial testing until I can find the correct brass.

Now the question is, is the finish on the receiver supposed to look like this? The barrel is normal blue, but the receiver looks almost shiny.

Thanks,

Rosewood

[ATCDoktor]

From the factory it would have been color case hardened and would’ve looked something like this one (refinished 1893 in 32/40).

The colors over time (due to handling, cleaning and exposure to sunlight) will fade leaving the receiver looking like yours.

Depending on how the rifle was stored/maintained it could have turned brown like this one:



Unless your rifle has obvious signs of heavy buffing/sanding on the receiver the colors just faded over time.

[rosewood]

Gotcha. I think I can sloppily brush blueing on it and make it look a lot like your first one.

I do believe it is just age, no signs that anyone has done any polishing on it.

I spotted a couple of similar aged guns at the LGS, one a Marlin and the other a Winchester, mine looks 2000% better than both of them and they wanted a mint for them. I really think I am going to like this one.

Thanks,

Rosewood

[John Taylor]

There is no cut in the bolt, I checked from one end to other. Did u mean firing pin? Could this be the way it goes? The notch in the firing pin isn't deep enough, so I will have to fit it.
Attachment 304412

That's the way it goes, my faulty memory is the problem. Just had one apart the other day.

[rosewood]

That's the way it goes, my faulty memory is the problem. Just had one apart the other day.

It surprised me, with all the things on the internet, I couldn't find the first video or picture showing how that firing pin spring went. Even the utube videos discussing taking the bolt, only took it out of the gun, no one ever showed how to take the bolt apart and put back together, it is simple as can be, but when you don't have pictures, it is hard to tell for sure. And when you have broken parts and don't know they are broken, it makes it more of a challenge.

Rosewood

[rosewood]

Noticed this little nub on the barrel is scratching the boolit and brass going in. Is this normal? Can I file it down? Or is there a purpose of it?


Don't mind all of that crud in there. It isn't leading, just needed a good brushing.

Thanks,

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

Rosewood,
The barrel chamber side of the stub, left over from the cutting of the extractor slot on the RH side of the barrel, I'm guessing a bit here, would benefit from filing a radius on the rear lip barrel side of the stub. Randy may weigh in on lifter timing here. Does it scratch when you operate the lever slowly, or fast? The "snail cam" on the lever may have worn a groove on the underside of the lever, affecting how,when, and where the loaded bullet is presented to the chamber.
I wouldn't try to remove the stub completely, just soften the offending edge where it's scoring bullet and case. A bit tricky to get to effectively without removing
the barrel. (lol, I love my takedowns, no problem whatsoever in working on the breech for just such a situation).

One barrel, the 38-55, has the stub almost completely worn off, The 32-40 is complete and stands proud, and sharp in the breech side edge. Neither barrel
has presented your problem in my case, but frankly, due to bore condition of the 38-55, and a shortage of brass for the 32-40,I haven't shot either very much.
Your pic also presents a case for radiusing the lower chamber edge while you're at it.
My $.02, FWIW (for what it's worth)

[rosewood]

Thanks for the tips.

I was thinking just that, round off edges on that stub. Will be a challenge to get in there and work on it and not bugger anything else up in the vicinity. I want to radius the chamber mouth, but currently don't have a tool that I think would be suitable for that. Unless maybe a tapered grinder bit would work??

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

" I used a 6 flute Severance Countersink on an extension and turned it by hand" W.R. Buchanan

The above from the "Sticky";
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...lin-1894-rifle

It'll make things a lot easier if you at least remove the bolt, and
I've found everything else, including bottom trigger plate. With all the guts out you can get a half round file to the
offending lip(s). A piece of 1/2"dowel with a 45 degree bevel on the end with a bit of crocus cloth glued/wrapped around it might work.
My recommendation is to do it by hand. One slip with an eg., Dremel, could be ugly. The stub on the LH side can be gotten to
with a small flat file with the lower plate out of the way. You won't get much of a file stroke, but it can be done.

[Rockindaddy]

My Marlin 1893 in 38-55 likes 375 Winchester brass. Cast bullets sized and lubed to .380 work great! Starline makes great brass. They just sell out of a particular run and eventually go back to running the sizes they have the most requests for.

[rosewood]

" I used a 6 flute Severance Countersink on an extension and turned it by hand" W.R. Buchanan

The above from the "Sticky";
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...lin-1894-rifle

It'll make things a lot easier if you at least remove the bolt, and
I've found everything else, including bottom trigger plate. With all the guts out you can get a half round file to the
offending lip(s). A piece of 1/2"dowel with a 45 degree bevel on the end with a bit of crocus cloth glued/wrapped around it might work.
My recommendation is to do it by hand. One slip with an eg., Dremel, could be ugly. The stub on the LH side can be gotten to
with a small flat file with the lower plate out of the way. You won't get much of a file stroke, but it can be done.

Had to look up what the 6 flute countersink is and realized I have one. May give it a try if I can figure out a way to hold it. It is designed to fit on a drill.

I also have a 79degree muzzle crowning cutter, wonder if that would work or would that be to shallow of an angle to work?

Thanks for the info.

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

Rosewood,
Just take it slow and ez, you'll get there! It doesn't take much to "break" that sharp lip. As Randy points out, it can be incorporated
into the chambering reamer. The barrel steel is not that hard, a bit of wet and dry 240 grit wrapped around your finger could be enough.

[rosewood]

Any issues with seating the boolit short of the crimp groove? Will I have enough purchase to keep the boolit in place in the mag tube? I am using a lee factory crimp die collet type.

Thanks,

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

You can get a lot of pressure with the FCD. You should be able to get the
case lip into the boolit below the radius of the nose. Or trim the case to a length where you are positioned in the groove.
That's what Hornady does on their "factory FTX" ammo, I think for 444 and 45-70. Easier than lengthening the action, which
can be modified to increase COAL.

Check out "Forster Case Trimmer" on Ebay. Great little tool, a hand turned mini lathe. You do need to get a collection of pilots
etc, but used they're not too badly priced.

[rosewood]

You can get a lot of pressure with the FCD. You should be able to get the
case lip into the boolit below the radius of the nose. Or trim the case to a length where you are positioned in the groove.
That's what Hornady does on their "factory FTX" ammo, I think for 444 and 45-70. Easier than lengthening the action, which
can be modified to increase COAL.

Check out "Forster Case Trimmer" on Ebay. Great little tool, a hand turned mini lathe. You do need to get a collection of pilots
etc, but used they're not too badly priced.

My problem is I am using 3030 brass and it is too short. I want to seat the boolit out closer to the rifling.

I already have a manual and powered case trimmer.

Thanks,

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

Aaah, if that's the case, you should have no problem getting a solid crimp on the boolit body. I'm assumiong you're running cast boolits.
One test I came across was to take one of the "hammer" type bullet removers and the FCD
crimped cartridge and give it a good whack. If it doesn't come out on that first blow, you're good to go.
Also, the nature of the folding in of the case at the lip/mouth should prevent the boolit going INTO the case.

[rosewood]

Aaah, if that's the case, you should have no problem getting a solid crimp on the boolit body. I'm assumiong you're running cast boolits.
One test I came across was to take one of the "hammer" type bullet removers and the FCD
crimped cartridge and give it a good whack. If it doesn't come out on that first blow, you're good to go.
Also, the nature of the folding in of the case at the lip/mouth should prevent the boolit going INTO the case.

Yes, cast Powder coated sized at .380.

Thanks!

[Rrusse11]

Personally I wouldn't be at all concerned, the "wedge" or bevel you'd be
fighting with driving the boolit into the case would dig the case into the boolit.
The inertia remover action is in the direction of the bevel, straightening it out, not folding it even deeper.

Shooting heavy loads with a full magazine, think additional mass, might lead to making the crimp even deeper, but I doubt you'll
be generating that much force. Nowadays I much prefer the 1/2, 2/3 magazine. We're not dealing with hordes of attackers
circling the wagon train when conceivably you'd need 10rds. The "spray and pray" mentality sells a lot of magazines.
Just make the first shot count.

[pull the trigger]

I can't believe no one has said it yet, PLEASE DONT ADD BLUING TO THE RIFLE ANYWHERE!!! Leave it silver and keep it oiled. PLEASE

[beltfed]

rosewood,
Alliant Reloader 7 made for a very good deer hunt load with the 255 or the 265 grain gas check bullet
in my M1893 38-55 as well as my 336 CB. It is accurate, no xs pressure signs and clocked about 1750
Check the handbooks. Lyman No. 4 CBH
beltfed/arnie