Darr Roller

[marlinman93]

Got the chamber reamed thanks to a good guy who loaned me his .35-40 Maynard reamer. And the brown truck dropped off my buttstock just now from CPA. It's a nice piece for the cost of $115, but now the part I dread; the fitting! Ugh. Lots of wood to come off to make it look right, and fit well.
I am going to leave the barrel off while I fit the wood. Also going to add a stud to the left side of the barrel and make a breech seater tool so I can shoot either fixed ammo, or breech seated bullets.



Going to be a lot of whittling to get tis stock fitted, and final shaped!

[marlinman93]

Started looking over the inletting on the CPA stock, and appears they screwed things up during the process. Top tang inletting was half as deep as the tangs are thick, and lower tang inletting was almost twice as deep as it needed to be. So all shifted up when they did the shaping.
I had to glue layers of veneer into the lower tang area, and chisel out the upper to shift things. Then as I was chiseling out the top tang inletting on the left side the whole corner of the stock popped off. So stopped and glued it back in, and left it cure overnight. Then today I began scraping and chiseling the lower tang first, and then the receiver/upper tang second. Once both fit, I reinstalled the lower tang to the receiver, and did some more adjusting to the inletting to allow it to fit the whole action.
Setting it aside now, and the next step is removing about 3/16" of wood all over as it's that much too large oversized. Lots of work with my draw plane, and wood files before I can even think about any rough or finish sanding. Still need to find a repro Remington buttplate I thought I had here somewhere?

[Shawlerbrook]

Vall, many of my projects take unforeseen twists and turns on the way to completion. I think dealing with them is all part of what makes them yours. Can’t wait to see your finished project.

[725]

marlinman93: Have enjoyed this thread immensely. Your work and final product are inspirational. Just can't beat a single shot.

[marlinman93]

Vall, many of my projects take unforeseen twists and turns on the way to completion. I think dealing with them is all part of what makes them yours. Can’t wait to see your finished project.

Thanks. Can't say as I enjoy this, and even less so with the extra work involved in making repairs to poor workmanship. But it seems to be more the norm these days. I used to buy my stocks from Dave Crossno in Oklahoma, and was always pleased with the inletting, and wood quality. I will probably try Mike Basset who worked for Dave before he passed away, and see if he's still doing the same quality Dave did for me next time.

[marlinman93]

marlinman93: Have enjoyed this thread immensely. Your work and final product are inspirational. Just can't beat a single shot.

Thanks! Glad you enjoy it. I'll get some pictures of the current stock, and more after I begin shaping it down closer.

[marlinman93]

I found a guy on Ebay who sells a bunch of repop buttplates reasonably, and reasonable shipping at $24 total. And he had a large E. Rem. logo buttplate that should be around 1/16" smaller all around, and wont need a bunch of wood removed to fit. So have one coming, since I can't find one I thought I might have here?

[marlinman93]

A little more work completed. Got about half of the extra wood shaped down with a wood rasp and chisels. Sow going as I'm not sure yet if I'll leave the action blued, or polish it down and send it to Al for color case? So protecting it as I work the wood, so I don't end up scratching it up and have to have it color cased.
Got the areas around the receiver and tangs as close as I can go with a rasp, so next step is to take it down to the tape with 60 grit, and sanding blocks. Got a good 1/8" removed so far, almost that much more needed to be taken off. Need to also do more shaping on the comb, and pistol grip areas, but they're easier done with the stock off the action.




Also used a chisel to lower the center area of the buttstock. This way I can fit the buttplate when it arrives, and only need to work a narrow band around the edge of the butt area.

[marlinman93]

For every hour I spend on a stock now, I spend another hour in my easy chair with a heating pad.

I got the wood down to the point of bedding it yesterday. Then after a few hours of semi cure time I pulled the action and let the bedding continue to cure. I use Miles Bedrock Bedding as it's better, and harder than almost any bedding. Bedding it prior to final sanding steps avoids having to worry about compound on the exterior wood area.
I ran out of release agent, and didn't want to but another kit just to get a bottle, so in a pinch I saw an old bottle of Lee liquid alox on the shelf above the bench. I opened it up and it was too thick to even pour, so I put it in the microwave with the cap off for 15 seconds. Didn't do much, so did 30 seconds and it was nice and runny. Used a spare flux brush to brush the alox all over the tangs and the back of the receiver. It worked better than the release agent that comes with the kit!

[koger]

Val, I use Johnsons past wax as a release agent, works great, rub on a couple of coats and let dry.

[marlinman93]

Val, I use Johnsons past wax as a release agent, works great, rub on a couple of coats and let dry.

I tried paste wax once on a Ballard stock I was bedding, and almost didn't get it off! Luckily I always pull stocks before the full cure time just to avoid any possible issues, so after clamping the action in my padded vise, and repeated blows with a rubber mallet it finally let go. Not sure if it was something I did wrong, but I went back to release agent after that. Now I'll stick with the Lee alox, as it came loose easier than anything I've used.

[marlinman93]

Got the front half of the stock sanded down with 80 grit on my Durablock sanding pad. Shaped it down another 1/8" in the grip area using my Creedmoor to check shape, and dimensions first. Can't go any further until the buttplate arrives in a couple days, and I can see how much wood needs to be removed towards the buttplate, and blend that end in too. Then once the buttplate is fitted I can final sand with 240 and 320 grit.

[marlinman93]

My Remington repro buttplate arrived yesterday, and a quick check shows I've got a lot more wood work to do! The length is great, but width is 3/16" higher on each side than the buttplate. So it's going to take a lot of wood removal to fit, and blend it out towards the wrist!

[EOChief66]

marlinman93, try a spokeshaven, they work fine for delicate work.

[marlinman93]

marlinman93, try a spokeshaven, they work fine for delicate work.

I think a spoke shave, and my draw plane are pretty much the same tool. I've used my draw plane for a lot of stock work where I needed to remove a good amount of material. Only issue is unlike spokes where the grain always runs true to the length, gun stocks often have grain running at off angles. So it requires careful consideration as to which way I pull the plane to not dig into the wood and create gouges I'd need to take out later.

I got all the excess wood off with my draw plane yesterday, and began sanding with 80 grit on my Dura-Block 11" sanding pad. The pad's length really helps keep the sides true, and eliminates waves in the wood. Now it's all hand sanding down to maybe 320 grit and then try to match the stain on buttstock and forearm before finish.

[EOChief66]

I guess you are well on your way. A low angle plane works great also!

[Shawlerbrook]

Can’t wait to see the finished product.

[marlinman93]

I guess you are well on your way. A low angle plane works great also!

Not familiar with a "low angle plane"? I have used a couple of my smaller Stanley planes in the past, but they didn't work that well.

[marlinman93]

Can’t wait to see the finished product.

I hope I can get a reasonable match on color and tint. I did a test stain before finish sanding, just to see and the buttstock wood is much darker than my forearm. Going to have to play with stains to try to match them up.

[EOChief66]

marlinman93
Copied from an article. https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016...ane-1905-1942/


"Stanley presented the #62 as being designed for heavy work across the grain; Sargent offered the type as being “…a heavy plane… especially intended for cutting across the grain [or) for use on knurly cross-grained wood where the ordinary block plane would be too light.” So, a block plane to be used like a jack on difficult grains and for cross-grain planing (traversing. I’m not typically concerned with blow out when traversing, so why should the tool buyers of the day spend 30%+ more for a low-angle jack vs. a standard bench plane? Why indeed, but 37 years of sales says the answer was evident to more than a few. "

Stanley also made a low angle block plane, 21 degrees I believe. I have one and it works where the standard plane will not.