MidSouth Shooters SupplyBonettLee PrecisionWideners
RotoMetals2Titan ReloadingInline FabricationRepackbox

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 47

Thread: 686 or GP100

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    847

    686 or GP100

    Ready to pull the trigger on one.
    Both .357, 6" Stainless Steel.
    Last week I shot both side by side and can't decide which to choose?
    Will be shooting mostly Medium to Medium heavy loads with 158gr.
    for cast silhouette Matches at 50yd steel targets size of a chicken.
    However I will probably shoot some Mag loads from time to time.
    Aside from the Smith has a better trigger,
    Pro's/Con's of each?
    Help me decide.

    Thanks
    Failure is not an Option

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    dannyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    936
    GP100 6 inch Red dot
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	A09E31BA-457C-444B-B490-3A2C342D2A55.jpg 
Views:	36 
Size:	34.3 KB 
ID:	302961

  3. #3
    Banned


    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Southernmost State of the Union
    Posts
    4,940
    Better trigger trumps everything else!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    847
    Quote Originally Posted by stubshaft View Post
    Better trigger trumps everything else!
    But with a short time of polishing and changing springs the
    triggers will be about the same.
    Failure is not an Option

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    2,251
    The 686 is definitely the better gun. Not that the Ruger is a bad gun, it’s not. It’s just a world of difference in manufacturing tolerances and machinery used to make the SW. I could live with the Ruger and find it quite adequate, but I’d find the 686 a bit better. I’ve owned a lot of each brand.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    776
    I suspect the GP100 is the stronger/more durable of the two, so if you plan to run mostly maximum loads through it, I'D opt for the Ruger. Its trigger may not be quite as amenable to tuning as that of the S&W, but I think it would require a championship-grade revolver shooter to discern the difference.
    For in much wisdom is much grief: and he that increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow. Ecclesiastes 1:18
    He that troubleth his own house shall inherit the wind: and the fool become servant to the wise of heart. Proverbs 11:29
    ...Verily I say unto you, Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of my brethren, ye have done it unto me. Matthew 25:40


    Carpe SCOTCH!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    State of Denial
    Posts
    3,476
    Quote Originally Posted by hylander View Post
    But with a short time of polishing and changing springs the
    triggers will be about the same.
    Don't even need to do that, just lube it and shoot it a lot on DA, and that will take care of itself. Probably won't even be ashamed it's not a Python - they polish up very nice after you run them a little.

    Solid frame with no sideplate on the Ruger. No Hillary Hole. Spur grip frame with more choice of how big or small your grip can be. Established customer service. No concerns over where S&W's move out of Mass. is going to leave us.
    WWJMBD?

    Is the mightiness of the pen still relevant after we roll the writing paper into cartridges for a Sharps?

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Boysee
    Posts
    601
    I started shooting Silhouettes with a GP100 6" full lug.
    I found it to have barrel thread choke so I lapped that out and shot/grouped much better, and swapped out some springs with Wolff for a better trigger.
    I often read that a full lug gun was front heavy but never noticed that.
    And my GP has interchangeable fronts sites, so I bought sites for the super red hawk, both plastic and steel, and filed them into Patridge Sites.
    Oh, and installed Pachmayers, lapped the forcing cone too.
    just me though,
    Have you decided on a barrel length and barrel lug configuration?
    Try them all if you can.
    I just remembered, I numbered the cylinder holes and shot groups for each chamber and found the worst of the six, then didn't use it in Silhouette matches.
    um, I might have lapped the crown too, it's been a while.

    Edit: If you find one chamber that shoots way better than the rest, you can shoot all the targets in the bank of 5 with the same chamber.
    IE: load/shoot that chamber, eject that case and reload that same chamber, kinda like a single shot gun.
    Last edited by Kenstone; 08-07-2022 at 01:11 AM.
    Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up the priming station and continue loading.

  9. #9
    Banned


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    6,322
    You shot both and thought the 686 had the better trigger? Or do you just prefer the wide blade trigger of S&W's? I personally find the GP100 generally has a better trigger.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master



    Dieselhorses's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Southeast Louisiana
    Posts
    1,242
    Love my 686-7! More accuracy I've had in a while in a pistol!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	686.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	31.5 KB 
ID:	302963
    The unexamined life is not worth living....Socrates
    Pain, is just weakness leaving the body....USMC
    Fast is fine, but accuracy is FINAL!....Wyatt Earp

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

    imashooter2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    7,304
    The Ruger is a great lump of cast steel with lines that make the Baby Jesus cry. The Smith is a sleek forged steel beauty. Other than that, they’re both good revolvers.
    ”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn

    My Straight Shooters thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter

    The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks

  12. #12
    You have 2 hands dont ya? Buy one of each!!

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy 414gates's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    237
    My Rugers all developed trigger drag against the frame, and needed to be shimmed. The trigger drag caused light strikes.

    None of my S&W developed trigger drag, but I did end also end up with light strikes from weak leaf springs.

    I never favored one trigger over the other.

    If you have the means, buy them both.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Central Maine
    Posts
    694
    First World problems...

    For me I would pick the Ruger but the Smith is a good handgun as well. Tough problem to have...

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Thumbcocker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    East Central Illinois
    Posts
    4,106
    If the Smith is pre EDM rifling I would get it. If not I would get the Ruger and be prepared to do some polishing and spring replacement.
    You'll go far providin' you ain't burnt alive or scalped."

    Will Geer as Bear Claw in "Jeramiah Johnson"

  16. #16
    Boolit Master


    Finster101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    SW Fla
    Posts
    2,227
    I am firmly in the 686 camp.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Near Austin
    Posts
    1,226
    Hylander, so you shot both side by side and didn’t come away with a clear winner. Not surprising bc there isn’t one. They both do the same thing for the same money. Brand vs brand. But you asked for pros and cons. Here’s my list.

    686
    Pros
    Forged frame, less bulk for same strength, looks better.
    Rear sight assembly, less side play.
    SA trigger/sear angled design, usually better out of the box, less creep.
    Cylinder release latch pushes forward.

    Cons
    Hillary hole. Safety rarely auto-engages but that’s a real risk. The safety flag can be filed to keep it from locking the hammer or it can be removed all together. Some fear of lawyer’s arguments over altered gun safeties.
    6 shot model has cylinder bolt notches cut directly over chambers, 7 shot notches are between chambers.
    Front sight is pinned on and there are no aftermarket night sight options.
    Side plate construction dates from 1890’s. But whoever heard of a Smith that had a side plate frame fail?
    Ejector rod can back out and keep cylinder from swinging out (the left hand thread design minimizes this but does not definitively eliminate it).
    Some have EDM rifling.

    GP100
    Pros
    No Hillary hole.
    6 shot model has cylinder stop notches cut between chambers, 7 shot model has over chambers.
    Basic design from 1970s with modular trigger group.
    Crane that locks front of cylinder into frame.
    Peg grip frame that allows trigger reach/grip size to be altered to a greater degree.
    Front sight interchangeable by quick release spring/plunger.
    Aftermarket night sights available.

    Cons
    Cast frame is bulkier and heavier (hence it LOOKS like it’s stronger).
    Rear sight assemblies have side play (Can be shimmed).
    SA trigger/sear same design as Colt SAA or Blackhawk, can never attain creep-free release but can tuned to be VERY close.
    Cylinder release pushes into frame, more awkward than Smith.
    Ruger cut rifling often has chatter marks in barrel (often looks worse than it degrades shooting).

    Things that are a wash on both.
    Modern production guns have:
    Large barrel to cylinder gaps bc it’s easier to cut them large once and assemble that to cut/try/cut/try until small gap is achieved.
    Chambers cut with dull reamers for under spec, out of round chambers (usually they go small so this can be fixed by reaming with a new finish reamer).
    Chamber throats undersized for same reason, same fix.
    MIM parts (never saw any fail in either platform, 1911’s yes, revolvers no).
    Both have rifling twist 18.75”.
    Both have been competing in the market for decades without a clear hands down winner.

    If you’re really just interested in shooting 50 yard chickens, I’d suggest you consider a Blackhawk for its faster 16” twist.
    "Time and money don't do you a bit of good until you spend them." - My Dad

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Justin Texas
    Posts
    137
    I have both the GP-100 and a 586 (I know, not 686) both in 4". I am a die hard Ruger fan but I have to admit that I like everything about the 586 better and I can shoot it better. Don't get me wrong I love the GP-100 but the 586 wins for me. It took me a long time to admit that to myself

    Which did you shoot better without modifications?

    Edit: I use the GP-100 for hotter loads and the Smith for precision

    Edit(2): I know you said 6" but take a look at the Match Champion. I have one in 10mm and it is my favorite wheel gun out of them all
    Last edited by Bloodhound689; 08-07-2022 at 09:34 AM.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Mid atlantic area
    Posts
    1,108
    Quote Originally Posted by Thumbcocker View Post
    If the Smith is pre EDM rifling I would get it. If not I would get the Ruger and be prepared to do some polishing and spring replacement.
    I strongly agree with this. I haven’t had much luck with the EDM rifling and cast bullets.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    contender1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Lake Lure NC
    Posts
    1,969
    Seems to me I saw this same exact question on another Forum.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check