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Thread: M-95 Steyr Mannlicher straight pull bolt

  1. #1
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    M-95 Steyr Mannlicher straight pull bolt

    I used to know, but have forgotten, when one removes the bolt and the rotating bolt head snaps back into the body and you wish to reinsert the bolt into the receiver, how do you get the bolt head to stay in the out position? Some will stay out when removed but many snap back into the bolt body and you can pull and rotate it into the insert position, but the instant you let go of the head it snaps back into the body again. I know there's a trick to it, but haven't handled one for years until today and am having frustrating results!

    DG

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    Pull the bolt head out and an old dime should be the right size to fit between bolt head and body.

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    Honestly, that was my first thought, but it would take something about an inch thick. I'm thinking I'll try a piece of matchstick put in lengthwise. Kind of a 3 handed job though.

    DG

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    Noah Zark's Avatar
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    HPBear is correct; a dime fits perfectly behind the rotating bolt head and the front edge of the bolt body. Remove it as soon as the bolt is started in the bolt raceway in the receiver.

    I'm afraid a matchstick isn't sufficiently strong and would splinter at the ends where it contacts the metal bits. Building on your matchstick idea, cut a length of 1/8" square keystock with sharp-edged 90 degree ends.

    Noah

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    Thank you, Gentlemen. I will re-examine the problem. I've got 6 of them on my workbench that have been in storage for years, and I stored them with the bolts removed because the straight bolt handle pokes holes in the foam of a hard case. They're about to go off to Gunbroker, but I didn't want to send them disassembled. Actually, I'll probably keep one of them, just because they're such a unique piece of hardware.

    DG

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    Is this what you've got in mind? I have one of the 6 that did not retract when removed from the receiver. The dime is close, but a bit large--a couple of strokes with a file would make it fit. But I'm a hand short when it comes to pulling out the bolt head, rotating it, holding it out against the mainspring pressure, and sticking in the dime! I need an assistant! But there's a nagging thought in the back of my mind that I once read about a very simple trick to do this....I just can't remember what it was. Hopefully someone with a better memory will come along.

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    DG

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    Noah Zark's Avatar
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    I use a 6" or 8" Crescent wrench on the bolt lugs to rotate the bolt head in position. Once there, you can usually make do with one hand to hold it in place to accept a dime or section of 1/8"'keystock.

    Noah

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    Hey...thanks Noah! I tried holding the bolt head in a padded bench vise, turning the bolt body, but the vise jaws prevented the head from rotating sufficiently. I'll give your method a try tomorrow and post the results. In examining these bolts I notice that the one that remains extended has a tighter fit of the locking lug beneath the extractor. Might be that the tightness is what holds it in place. I might try squeezing one of the other's extractor to lessen the clearance as an experiment and see if that solves the problem.

    DG

  9. #9
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    Mtn Hunter:

    The rotating bolt head is kept in the unlocked position by means of a projection on the tail of the extractor. The projection snaps into a short longitudinal slot in the bolt body when the bolt head is forward and the lugs aligned with the bolt body lugs. What keeps the projection engaged is a slight bend in the extractor tail. Not enough bend and the bolt head self-retracts. Too much bend and the bolt handle takes noticeably more force to yank back. There are a few YT vids on M95 bolt disassembly. It looks daunting and can be unless you pay close attention to alignment of a D shaped collar into which the firing pin is inserted, the correct position of the rotating head for assembly into the bolt body, and keeping the loose and floppy safety in the middle position when installing the cocking piece.

    HTH,

    Noah

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    Success! Thanks again for the good advice. I did not have to use the dime, but once I got into it I could see where that could come in handy. (I put the bolts, one at a time!) vertically into my main bench vise. The vise has wooden jaws and a strip of rubber cargo bladder like they haul stuff like glue in on the highways. Very tough and very resilient. So I got a good squeeze on the bolt with about the top 1/3 sticking out. First I tried the Crescent wrench idea, but found the locking lugs to be too slick to get a grip. Next I tried some parallel smooth jawed pliers and wasn't having much luck with that either until I turned them vertically also so that I had a grip on the full length of the lug.
    Then it was just a matter of keeping a tight grip on the pliers and turning the other lug up into and just a bit past the extractor slot. At that point 5 of the 6 held fast and I was able to remove them carefully from the vise and re-insert them into the receivers. One was very touchy and I repeated the operation 3 or 4 times, was thinking about the dime, but the last time it stayed extended until I got it into the receiver.
    So, once again, thank you very much.

    Probably my last comment on the subject, this is almost impossible to do with your fingers. Still, they made many, many of these rifles and they saw extensive combat use. I can't believe that there wasn't an easier procedure that could be used by the ordinary soldier to replace the bolt in the field. Like I said earlier, I once knew the secret but have forgotten. I hope someone that knows will come along and eventually add their knowledge to this thread.

    DG

  11. #11
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    Noah Zark's Avatar
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    Glad it worked out for you.

    Noah

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    I've had luck wearing a cheap rubber coated gardening/work glove on my right hand to give a good grip on the bolt head. Hold the bolt body with your left hand and then pull them apart. The bolt head should rotate, extend and snap in place. Then carefully insert the extended bolt in the receiver without bumping it on the receiver wall until the lugs are inserted. If you do bump it and the head retracts, just pull it out again and be more careful next time. I've also used the dime trick, but that isn't necessary if you can pull the bolt head all of the way out. Make sure your bolt head isn't too greasy/oily to grip. You may have to degrease and can lube it after you get it inserted again.

    You can use the rubber glove trick to assist you in disassembling Mauser and P14/M1917 bolts too.

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    Take NoahZark's advice and take the bolt apart.
    That projection on the tail of the extractor is usually a little worn over from use and can use a very little pointing up with a small stone.
    Don't over do it, just put some crispness back into the triangular shape of the point and leave the tip of it a bit rounded still.

    The slot that the above snaps into can also be worn as well. Redefining that slot helps complete the two parts catch and hold the position that keeps the bolt head extended under spring tension.

    The slight arch of the extractor can be increased carefully by bending simply by hand. A very small amt added to the arching bend will increase the hold. It will also as NZ says increase the force needed to work the bolt as you are overcoming that mechanical grip the extractor tail has in the groove in the bolt body.
    When reassembling always apply some decent grease to the area.

    The dime trick works very well.
    I just like things to work as they were made to. I don't think a US dime was included with the rifle when issued.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check