310 Cadet

[Jim Miller]

Hi Bwana John, I'm still experimenting. What exactly do I have to do to the brass (needs to be chopped and trimmed) I can find the dimensions for the cadet brass but not the (PPU 7.62mm X 38mmR revolver brass). Jim

[trails4u]

Hi Bwana John, I'm still experimenting. What exactly do I have to do to the brass (needs to be chopped and trimmed) I can find the dimensions for the cadet brass but not the (PPU 7.62mm X 38mmR revolver brass). Jim

Should require very little. Trim to length (1.120 seems a popular length, although I think I'm trimming mine to 1.170. Your rifle will tell you what length it will tolerate). I start by cutting close with a mini-chop saw, then finish trim to length using a LE Wilson trimmer with a 218bee collet, then chamfer/debur. After that, I'm sizing the case mouths to .312 using a modified 310 tool with a .312 dia expander in a 30 carbine die. However you figure out to expand, make sure you're expanding to a dia that fits the particular heeled bullet you're using.

And that's it.... prime, charge, load, shoot.

[Jim Miller]

Hi Trails4u, Many thanks. Here I go again!! Jim

[Bwana John]

Trails4U covered it well. I have real 310 Cadet dies, and the RCBS heeled mold so that makes things a little easier.
If you leave the brass a little too long it can jam the bullet into the rifleing, sticking the bullet, and dumping powder in the action if you try to unload a unfired cartridge.
I use a 303 British Lee Factory collet crimp die by putting the loaded round into the TOP, controlling the crimp location with a shell holder and stacked washers.
Many people just seat the bullet by hand without resizing or crimping, I like my ammo to be able to hold up to harder handling, and I have multiple Cadet’s and would rather not keep brass segregated.
PPU brass is now so easily to get that I don’t care about the shorter lifespan from overworking it.