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Thread: Die locking rings ???

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

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    I've used most all. While the split ring types are arguably the best to secure a setting, they are not as versatile as the Lyman & RCBS hex style. They will both lock with the brass set screw and can be locked down on a progressive press die plate. Hornady, Forster and Redding are too crowded on a die plate.

    Lee O ring type are fine on a progressive when flipped upside down but worthless for preserving settings off and on a press.
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  2. #22
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    stubshaft's Avatar
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    Split rings for me.
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  3. #23
    Boolit Master Baltimoreed's Avatar
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    I’ve recycled the aluminum Lee rings and replaced them with real lockable rings. I like the look of the big knurled rings best but they all work ok.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I set all my dies up in Lee turrets, one time setup, so Lee rings work fine, though I like the older hex rings over the new scalloped. I use Redding Competition Shellholders to adjust for sizing headspace. Of the rest, I prefer the split ring that tightens around the die when screw is tightened. Lee also makes a Breech Lock die holder that locks onto the die. It works well for the portable Hand held Lee Breech Lock press, again one time setup.

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shawlerbrook View Post
    I know this has been discussed before but what are the best( I know it’s subjective) die lock rings and why ? I still debate this with myself. Thanks !
    I have a few different brands of dies. Bonanza, Dillon, Lee, RCBS, Redding, ect. That gives me several different types of lock rings. And some of those different brands have changed the type of lock ring over the years. So that gives me several different types to compare. My favorite type are the split ring. My least favorite is the type that uses the "O" ring. And some of this will depend on what type of press that you are using.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
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    Interesting thread. I read it but didn't have much to-do about it (or thought, until now).

    Here is what I've been doing and using. Having a variety of dies and looked them over. Have five setups for the RL550 in separate toolheads.

    Along with 3 or 4 sets as separate dies for the RCBS single stage.

    Right off I'll state that I don't like the Lee O-Ring dies. As rubber O-Rings dry out and become brittle. Fail.

    In the RL550 toolheads most dies have a simple hex ring. The ones that have a set-screw lock don't have a set-screw. These dies aren't really removed, just snug up the hex and done. Swapping a toolhead takes no effort in die adjustments.

    For the dies I use in the single-stage, I've moved to using the hex rings with brass tipped set screws. This allows for a quick die change while retaining the depth setting. The locked hex ring sets the die height.

    Just a slight snug on the die/ring to keep it from moving. Then load away. Pull it out and replace with the next die.

    45_Colt

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    I'm surprised that nobody mentioned the 1" Dillon rings that easily enables a person to adjust dies when there is little clearance between dies, like a Dillon 450 or other progressive presses.
    It's all chicken, even the beak!

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shuz View Post
    I'm surprised that nobody mentioned the 1" Dillon rings that easily enables a person to adjust dies when there is little clearance between dies, like a Dillon 450 or other progressive presses.
    Yep, this is what I meant by the 'simple hex ring.' As you mention they are nice on a press such as the RL550 as it is easy to snug them down. Dillon sells them by the bag full, well, almost by the bag full. Well worth it.

    I replace the other die lock rings with these and swap the locking rings onto dies used in the SS press.

    45_Colt

  9. #29
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    For those that don't want to gouge the die body threads with a set screw; https://www.mcmaster.com/set-screws/...n-6-6-plastic/. And brass tipped https://www.mcmaster.com/set-screws/tip-material~brass/
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  10. #30
    Boolit Master

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    split rings. I started using them because of my Co-Ax press, but I have issues using them on normal screw-in presses. When adjusting them to length and get to my desired position when I tighten down the split ring, the ring seems to compress into the top of the press. Removing the die after the split ring was tightened down requires some serious wrench power to remove the die. More power than I am willing to use reinstalling them resulting in a slight variation of set height.

    Am I using the split rings incorrectly?
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  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by oley55 View Post
    split rings. I started using them because of my Co-Ax press, but I have issues using them on normal screw-in presses. When adjusting them to length and get to my desired position when I tighten down the split ring, the ring seems to compress into the top of the press. Removing the die after the split ring was tightened down requires some serious wrench power to remove the die. More power than I am willing to use reinstalling them resulting in a slight variation of set height.

    Am I using the split rings incorrectly?
    As you get close to where you want/need to lock the lock into position. Tighten the lock ring screw as much as possible and still be able to _just_ adjust the die. Then back off the ring a smidgen and lock it into place.

    Double check the adjustment and go from there.

    The issue is that split rings close into the threads, which usually cams the ring further downward. This is due to the ring riding higher on the threads when loose. Then as the ring is tightened it moves with the direction of looseness in the thread.

    Which is typically down, this is what locks the die up tight.

    45_Colt

    P.S. re-reading this looks confusing, hope it helps...

  12. #32
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by 45_Colt View Post
    As you get close to where you want/need to lock the lock into position. Tighten the lock ring screw as much as possible and still be able to _just_ adjust the die. Then back off the ring a smidgen and lock it into place.

    Double check the adjustment and go from there.

    The issue is that split rings close into the threads, which usually cams the ring further downward. This is due to the ring riding higher on the threads when loose. Then as the ring is tightened it moves with the direction of looseness in the thread.

    Which is typically down, this is what locks the die up tight.

    45_Colt

    P.S. re-reading this looks confusing, hope it helps...
    nah, that makes sense and basically what I have been trying to do. The reality is that getting the split rings set just right seems to invoke a bit more trial n error as opposed to the set screw types.
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  13. #33
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    Split rings for me. Lead shot under a set screw is close second.
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  14. #34
    Boolit Bub
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    split rings..co-ax for me too

  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I use both and the O ring type seem to work, but I prefer the solid locking type, however I’m not going to change anything I already have.

  16. #36
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by oley55 View Post
    nah, that makes sense and basically what I have been trying to do. The reality is that getting the split rings set just right seems to invoke a bit more trial n error as opposed to the set screw types.
    This is true, but what is a little futzing when all is said and done, you are done. If you have access to the set-screw rings, go with them. I'm not one to tell folks to suffer...

    45_Colt

  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Any ring with a simple set-screw and lead shot in the hole to protect the die threads .

    The ring can have flats on it or not ... I can not damage the rings if I need to use the padded jaws on a set of Channel - Locks to adjust or loosen them .

    I'm getting used to the Lee O-Ring set up but still prefer a set-screw .
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  18. #38
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Just bought some Lee split rings with both O-ring and set screw. Will give a review if I ever get some time at the reloading bench. Too much outside work around the back 40 right now.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master wrench man's Avatar
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    RCBS hex nuts are the only ones that haven't been replaced with the Dillon hex nuts, they're all in Dillon tool heads so "set them and forget them!"
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  20. #40
    Boolit Master hc18flyer's Avatar
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    " aluminum knurled split ring w/set screw" for me. I have a Forster Co-ax that I mostly use. I just have to not snap the tiny allen head screws! hc18flyer

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