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Thread: Annealing question

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    Annealing question

    Gentlemen,

    I have a question regarding induction annealing brass. I have been looking at some videos trying to understand how long is long enough with the heat. Do you stop when the brass is just about to glow orange, or do you stop as soon as it turns orange.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    The short answer, yes. Just reaching 750 degrees F is not enough because there is a time factor involved. Go over to the Accurate Rifle forum for more information. People there shoot benchrest and F class, they really try to squeeze all the accuracy and precision possible.

    https://forum.accurateshooter.com/

    https://forum.accurateshooter.com/th...r-750.3964669/

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charliemac View Post
    The short answer, yes. Just reaching 750 degrees F is not enough because there is a time factor involved. Go over to the Accurate Rifle forum for more information. People there shoot benchrest and F class, they really try to squeeze all the accuracy and precision possible.

    https://forum.accurateshooter.com/

    https://forum.accurateshooter.com/th...r-750.3964669/
    Thank you sir.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    high standard 40's Avatar
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    Tempilaq will tell you when you reach the desired temperature.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    I don't induction anneal brass. That said, NO. Most 'hide' the neck from you so you can't tell. Anneal some at a specific time and test the anneal with needle nose pliers. Find the right time and set the machine.
    Whatever!

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    I don't induction anneal brass. That said, NO. Most 'hide' the neck from you so you can't tell. Anneal some at a specific time and test the anneal with needle nose pliers. Find the right time and set the machine.
    Couldn’t he paint inside the neck with 750 templac then start with a short time. Cool the brass after each test and slowly increase time until he gets 750?

    At 750 I believe that the annealing soak time for cartridge brass is a fraction of a second.

    I use an AMP, and I think it varies both current and time to avoid burning a hole in the brass.

  7. #7
    Check out this interesting video.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=M8AxgPPoKkU

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy 414gates's Avatar
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    Induction annealers have a calibration mode that configures the machine for the brass you want to anneal. You usually have to sacrifice one piece of brass for this.

    You don't need to worry about the color of anything, it does everything automatically.

  9. #9
    Boolit Man
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    Apr 2013
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    I do quite a bit of induction annealing, and you will need 750/Deg Templac to know if the brass is properly annealed.
    As said before timing is very critical and to long of a time will melt the brass.
    Depending on the cartridge always start at a lower time and work your way up.
    You may scrap out several cartridges in the process, but you should be able to find the minimum time needed when using 750/Deg Templac.
    Keep records of the time required for each cartridge.

    I've found out where the cartridge is located in the coil makes a big difference.
    I try to concentrate on the base of the cartridge which gives me the best reading when using the Templac.
    This is where positioning and timing come into play.

    Hope this helps. If any specific information is needed let me know.

    Thank You

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master
    Shiloh's Avatar
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    I do it by hand.
    Surplus bolt actions for ringing a 200 yard gong only. Open sights. This is not precision shooting.
    Shiloh
    Je suis Charlie

    "A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
    Bertrand de Jouvenel

    “Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.” – Joseph P. Martino

    “If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.” – Milton Friedman

    "Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have guns; why should we let them have ideas?" - J. Stalin

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy tmanbuckhunter's Avatar
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    The flame will change color right before the brass starts to glow. I suppose if you had the room completely dark and devoid of light the brass might glow slightly. Get a bottle of tempilaq and compare, and I reckon you'll find this is extremely close if not right on the money. It has been for me anyways.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Im cheap. I use a propane torch, a dark room, and a drill with a socket to fit the brass. I turn the brass with the drill til its just slightly glowing all the way around on the neck, then dump into a bucket of water. Works for me. Takes about ten to 15 seconds per case.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Half Dog's Avatar
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    I spend too much time trying to make each piece of brass the same. I use Templac and I haven’t had a problem.
    The sooner I fall behind...the more time I have to catch up with

  14. #14
    Boolit Master waco's Avatar
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    https://www.amazon.com/Vertex-Manufa.../dp/B01IE0BX1M
    My brother and I went in halves on one of these machines years ago. Fast and precise. We also use Templaque to dial everything in.
    The fear of the Lord is the beginning of knowledge: but fools despise wisdom and instruction.
    Proverbs 1:7

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy DCB's Avatar
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  16. #16
    Boolit Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    One method people use is to stick the necks into molten lead in a casting pot for a moment.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by sigep1764 View Post
    Im cheap. I use a propane torch, a dark room, and a drill with a socket to fit the brass. I turn the brass with the drill til its just slightly glowing all the way around on the neck, then dump into a bucket of water. Works for me. Takes about ten to 15 seconds per case.
    My son and I do that together, drill with socket and extension, propane torch, 5-gallon pail of water. Will do a couple thousand at a time. Does not take long.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check