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Thread: To make shot or not to make shot that is the q...

  1. #41
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by 10sandxs View Post
    So I did some math... if shot sells for $65/bag, and I can get scrap range lead for $.50/lb (which I can), and I figure $700 for the shot maker and ancillary equipment to make shot... (drum roll please)
    7/8 oz loads break even after 22.6 flats
    1-1/8 oz loads break even after 17.5 flats

    Based on my consumption rate, that's about a 2.5 year ROI... Most businesses would balk at that... I probably will too... but it's fun to dream...

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    So buy the $425 shot maker. It's slower at 40 to 50 pounds of shot an hour, but you can still make the 300 pounds of shot (for 22.6 flats) of shot in a single day with it.

  2. #42
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    So buy the $425 shot maker. It's slower at 40 to 50 pounds of shot an hour, but you can still make the 300 pounds of shot (for 22.6 flats) of shot in a single day with it.
    That is the 425 shot maker, plus 35 shipping, plus the drop tank, plus the circulation pump, plus screens to dry, Etc. I'm estimating the whole system will be a $700 (ish) investment

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  3. #43
    Boolit Grand Master


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    The drop tank can be anything. Most of us already have a 50 caliber ammo can. They are like $15 if you don't. You do not need a circulation pump, and I can't imagine what it would be for. Coolant depends on what you buy. I buy RV anti-freeze, and it is reusable for a while. I don't remember what it costs. You would want about 4 gallons for a longer run. You don't need screens to dry. Just dump it on a tarp, or anything else you already have. You can buy a square mesh screen to filter out bad shot if you want. All in all, there is no reason to be spending over $500 total with tax and shipping on this stuff.

    One last thing is completely up to you if it is worth it. You can make a years supply for yourself in a day. You can then do a second run, and sell that. People will buy your shot at $50 a bag here all day, every day. That alone will pay for it quick.

  4. #44
    Boolit Master


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    Agreed..the pump is not needed. The 50 cal ammo can is perfect. Set it in a 1$ disposable aluminum turkey roaster pan to catch overflow.

    Also agreed..the coolant is reusable.. I imagine RV af and fabric softener are close in price too.

    The seive costs a little..yeah... 50-80$.

    The window screen panel was just for my ease. You could dump into an old pillowcase and lay out in the sun in the driveway.

    Ps..there is a knock off of the oasis dripper for about 125 - 199 on eBay. Thin metal body..looks like a cake pan... Has a 115v burner on it and the metal dripper ladle with the drippers. Way cheaper for those wanting light duty runs.

  5. #45
    Boolit Buddy
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    From what I've read, coolant temp is critical variable for good quality shot. If I do it, the coolant will be temp controlled and circulated across heating element (water heater element) and a cooling line (garden hose with controll valve)

    I hadn't considered the sales side of things... interesting...

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  6. #46
    Boolit Grand Master


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    No, the coolant temp isn't super important. You don't want ice cold temp, but anything from chilled and up works great. The only factor is safety. At a certain temp, coolants can ignite. The flash point of RV antifreeze is 232 degrees, so you wouldn't want to get over about 200ish. I've never had it happen though. After the can gets about 1/3rd full, that's as much shot as you want to be lifting. The coolant will be moderately warm, not hot. You swap out the can with with fresh coolant, and keep going. By the time that's full, the first spoils coolant will be cooled down. By rotating coolant, you will maintain a safe temperature. The exact temperature is not needed for good shot.

    The critical factors for good shot are more with the shot maker. What coolant you use has some bearing, but there are a million coolants that people have luck with. With the shot maker, they should maintain a good melt temp for lead shot. You will need a PID to lower that temp if you ever want to make bismuth shot. Another factor that can matter is the distance from the pan lip to the coolant. The shot maker manufacturers already figured out this measurement for you. I would say the big three most important factors you should worry about are #1 lead level in the pan. It has to be a certain height over the drippers. Too high or too low is no good. #2 You have to keep your drippers clear. They will clog sometimes. Usually a tap with a screwdriver clears them. #3 You have to maintain a good surface on your pan's lip. I uses welders chalk on mine. Beyond that, it's just logistics of keeping both ends fed.

  7. #47
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
    Once the gear is accumulated, and the skill is mastered you have it. Can use it or not as the situation or spirit moves you.
    Applicable to so many things in life. Self reliance.

    I almost never shoot shotgun but have been mulling getting into shot shell reloading for this exact reason. I'd just cast 00 Buck.
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    Keepers of the Digital Panopticon since 1998

  8. #48
    Boolit Master


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    Agreed... The lip to coolant distance and lip coating is important. I went about 1/4 " to 5/16" and used spray on graphite. I hit the lip with a scotchbrite before each use then give it a 2 second shot of spray graphite. It will run like that for hours.

    Ditto on coolant temp. There is no need to heat it or circulate. I let mine get up to 140 ish and then will remove the lead by pouring the contents off..then refilling coolant. As has been said..you can keep doing this and rotate your coolant...thats why having a few gallons to start with and some extra buckets is a good idea. I'd start with probably 4g...3 minimum.

  9. #49
    Boolit Man
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    A lot of good information here. I was also under the impression that coolant temperature was important but in makes more sense to simply switch out and rotate coolant but what should I do when actually switch cans of coolant? Should I catch the still flowing shot into a separate container as I switch or allow the lead level to drop to the point where it doesn't flow or just shut down ever time? Looks like I'll be jumping into another project after all.

  10. #50
    Boolit Grand Master


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    No, all you have to do is prop up the front of the shot maker. You don't have to shut off the heat or anything. It will stop flowing. Then you can take as long as you need to do anything, clean the pan lip, dump the shot catch can, get a drink, etc.

  11. #51
    Boolit Man
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    My God sometimes the easiest solution isn't so obvious or maybe I'm just over thinking things. Thank you.

    Any idea how long the heating element last on a shot maker? Is that going to be an issue for long time use or am I over thinking again? I plan to operate off a generator (away from the family) so power supply can be an issue, is the 110v model of the Oasis just as good as the 220v?
    Last edited by BIGOX; 07-02-2022 at 08:30 AM.

  12. #52
    Boolit Master


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    The difference in the 110 and 220 oasis is the heating element...and the 220 model has no plug end on the cord. The 110v model uses a standard stove slip in small burner element. .. Same kind an electric house stove uses. Take out 3 screws holding ladle on. Slip out burner..etc. Easy to replace if needed. Pretty much everything else in the unit is a switch and a fuse. And as said the coolant temperature only makes a difference at the extreme ranges you don't want very cold coolant because it will freeze the lead while it's still elongated and if your coolant is extremely hot near boiling the lead won't cool fast enough and may develop flat spots when it hits the bottom of the cooling tank or the other shot that's in the cooling tank so you want your coolant to be pretty much from about 70 to 150. As MS said.. Just tip the unit up and block with a firring strip or 2x4. I dump the tank into a bucket and then pour off about 95% of the liquid into another bucket to cool. The empty tank goes back to its position, and I put in my spare coolant. Clean the drip edge and then go. RV antifreeze and fabric softener rinses off instantly when you have to.e. screen/sieve and dry..then graphite. Easy peasy... And I've only been doing this ? 5-6 weeks now. I've got 2 years worth of #6 and #7.5 ready to go. Im ordering drippers in other sizes. Easy to make a couple years worth in a weekend unless you are a competitive shooter..etc.

  13. #53
    Boolit Man
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    Well I don't know about the OP but that's enough information for me to jump in. Anyone out there willing to sell or trade that unsed shot maker they have gathering dust in the back of the shop? I'll post an ad in the S&S section. If not I guess I'll buy a new one. Thank you everyone for the information.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check