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Thread: Finishing a Beech Stock - Stain Recommendations.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Finishing a Beech Stock - Stain Recommendations.

    I have a new Fajen Beech M14 rifle match stock that I'll be fitting and glassing to my M1A shortly, and then finishing. After I do a lot of sanding! I'm not a huge fan of unstained Beech, and I'm wondering what type(s) of stain the experienced stockmakers on the forum would recommend. Right now, I'm leaning towards Laurel Mountain Forge stains, but I'm open to suggestions. I realize that Beech will never look exactly like Walnut, but I'd sure like to make it look less like Beech. If that makes sense. I'm looking for a darker, walnut-like appearance.

    This is what we're dealing with:

    Attachment 301451 Attachment 301452 Attachment 301453 Attachment 301454
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    That will be a nice looking stock when finished! Yes, beech and birch, white woods, don't accept water or oil based stains very well. What does work is alcohol based stains. I learned this "gunsmithing kink" many years ago, and since it worked so well for me I've always used it and never explored further. I am sure there are other things that will work, and work well. What I use is Lincoln Leather Dye. Usually used for shoes, belts, etc., but will penetrate the white woods and give a good color. The only thing is that they come in several shades, and they look different on the wood than they do on leather. They also look different on different pieces of wood, so it is very important to apply a little in the barrel channel or under the butt plate to see how it will look when dry before jumping in and doing the whole stock. The dye comes in a glass bottle with a dauber attached to the lid which is very handy for application, then immediately wipe with a rag to even out the color. Here's some photos of stocks done with the leather dye:
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    Top stock was colored with leather dye.

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    Swedish Mauser. Some have guessed the wood (beech) as being cherry.

    DG

  3. #3
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    Two very nice looking rifles! I'm planning to use alcohol-based stain; I've tried other stains on birch and beech before, with less than stellar results.
    Service members, veterans and those concerned about their mental health can call the Veterans Crisis Line to speak to trained professionals. To talk to someone, call 1-800-273-8255 and Press 1, send a text message to 838255 or chat at VeteransCrisisLine.net/Chat.

    If you or someone you know might be at risk of suicide, there is help. Call the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline at 1-800-273-8255, text a crisis counselor at 741741 or visit suicidepreventionlifeline.org.

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    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicholst55 View Post
    Two very nice looking rifles! I'm planning to use alcohol-based stain; I've tried other stains on birch and beech before, with less than stellar results.
    You are 100% correct about the alcohol-based stain. I have used Feebles Dark Brown leather dye with good results. Use Min-Wax Pre-Stain for a good even take of the stain. Just follow the directions on the can.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Char-Gar View Post
    You are 100% correct about the alcohol-based stain. Use Min-Wax Pre-Stain for a good even take of the stain. Just follow the directions on the can.
    Another thing that I learned the hard way - pre-stain wood conditioner! I have been criticized for using it by some folks, but to me it's a no-brainer.
    Service members, veterans and those concerned about their mental health can call the Veterans Crisis Line to speak to trained professionals. To talk to someone, call 1-800-273-8255 and Press 1, send a text message to 838255 or chat at VeteransCrisisLine.net/Chat.

    If you or someone you know might be at risk of suicide, there is help. Call the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline at 1-800-273-8255, text a crisis counselor at 741741 or visit suicidepreventionlifeline.org.

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    Another vote for leather dye.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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    Another vote for Alcohol and Leather Dye. Years ago I bought one of those M1 Carbine "Tribute" stocks for a 10/22. The finish on it not only looked terrible it would come off with a light scratch of a fingernail. It's wood was lighter and softer than Beech, darn near Balsa I thought. I refinished it by following this page, Dying M1 Carbine Birch Stocks and it turned out great.

  8. #8
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    Fiebings Medium Brown or Dark Brown would be my suggestion. Test in barrel channel for optimum color rendition. If applied to end grain area color rendition will not be the same as side grain...

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    Thanks, sounds like good ideas GW

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    Quote Originally Posted by 36g View Post
    Fiebings Medium Brown or Dark Brown would be my suggestion. Test in barrel channel for optimum color rendition. If applied to end grain area color rendition will not be the same as side grain...
    Monte Mandarino told me some years ago, mixing brown, red, and yellow dye will produce pretty much any color you want for a gun stock. Just need to test as you go along.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  11. #11
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    I’m sure the alcohol based are good, but my neighbor stained a beech stock he made, with a commercial stain from a hardware store. It turned out looking pretty good in my opinion.

  12. #12
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    Oil base stain does look good.
    But the ones I have done with it looked like the color was on the surface only.
    The Alcohol Dye seemed like it penetrated deeper and not a surface color.

  13. #13
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    Fiebling's Leather Dye will get that wonderful chestnut brown color with gold highlights in the grain. I like the light brown. It is an oil dye. Have not heard of using pre-stain but I guess it could work.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nicholst55 View Post
    Another thing that I learned the hard way - pre-stain wood conditioner! I have been criticized for using it by some folks, but to me it's a no-brainer.
    In my past experiences with pre-stain I found it best on objects made with multiple pieces of wood. It limits the amount of stain the wood will absorb and therefore the end color. You may not get as deep of a color when you use it.

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