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Thread: Double Alpha Magnetic Powder Check - Anyone use?

  1. #21
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Posts
    35
    Wonder if it'll lock out a dillon 1050 if it would I'd try one of those. All you want is no screwed up double or no charge rounds really don't need buzzers especially since I already have one on the primers.

  2. #22
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Posts
    35
    I'm going to look into this will it stop a 1050 dillon?

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Posts
    35
    I've been doing some reading on the rcbs lock out die. Not to change the theard a tad but how are they in real life? Thanks Bill

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    CLEVELAND, OHIO
    Posts
    124
    I already commented on these and they are very good powder sensors.
    I don't like buzzers going off for nothing and that is what Dillons do if there is no case and powder charge in position.
    The DA sensors will only react if there is a case in position to check.
    The drawback of the Dillon sensor is that multiple powder check plungers are required and then individually need to be setup.
    With the DA sensor it only takes several seconds to set the powder charge window you're looking for. They also have a setting to make the powder charge window smaller for more accuracy if needed.

    I just did some 440/Corbon reloading on one of my XL650 presses and found the batteries had corroded in the powder sensor.
    Cleaned it up and it works but like others said the buzzer is a nuisance if nothing is wrong.

    Bottom line. If I wanted to invest in the DA powder charge mounting dies for the multiple calibers, or at least several to start, I would scrap the Dillon powder check sensors and use nothing but the DA powder check sensors if they would fit on the tool head without any interference problems.

    I have a second DA one that I don't have to use on my Mark7 conversion setup and will have to see how it will work on a Dillon XL650 caliber setup. If I think it will work, I will be changing over.

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Posts
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by BLAHUT View Post
    Electronics are all fine and dandy, I do the old fashion way, primers in cartridge, 100 at a time, by hand, weigh a powder charge, put in case, do another, when I get to 100 in the charge block, visually inspect each cartridge with flashlight, put solid bleach cut wad in, put plastic cut wad in, run into compression die, set bullet, seat bullet. I only single load each cartridge. So no help here.....
    I shoot mostly handguns twice a week 2-300 hundred rounds at a session it would be almost imposible to load that way unless I give up sleeping (lol). When I load 44 mag, 7-30 waters I do as you do and load one at a time. But for the 9's through 45 the dillon does it quite quickly. At this point I'm just trying to fine tune the process and turn out the best reloads posible.

  6. #26
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Posts
    5
    Here are my findings after messing more with the DA powder check:

    - Problem is ultimately when set up for rifle cartridges (rod turned so the brass tip is up), the rod just goes right through fine powder instead of the top of the powder charge pushing the rod up. You end up with the bottom of the case being what pushes the rod up, regardless of charge or no charge. I’ve only tried this with CFE BLK.

    - Turns out brass tip down (i.e. DA’s described “pistol setup”) does fit into a 300 BLK case. When I tried that setup the powder alarm worked great, other than the fact powder is clinging to the bottom of the brass tip. I’d say .1gn at the worst, but that’s just eyeballing it. Will have to fight the static more when I have time, but a quick attempt at spraying static guard and bounce dryer sheet wipe down did not help.

    - Current takeaways:

    1) This will work well for pistol/300 BLK, but not with bottleneck cases combined with fine powder
    2) Not super happy with how much powder is sticking to brass tip (from both load accuracy and reloading cleanliness POVs)
    3) DA could resolve #1 by threading the rod and make separate screw-on brass tips with current “pistol” diameter and a “bottleneck” diameter that would work with .223 and larger.

    EDIT TO ADD: Loaded some 300BLK on a XL750, it was +/- .1gn (the sticking powder problem described above is not as much of an issue as I originally thought it’d be), and the powder checker worked great (I injected empty and 2x charge cases a few times to check).

    #1 takeaway above is the only reason I’d knock 1-2 stars off. If DA does something along the #3 takeaway above for a version 3, it’d be a 5 star product.
    Last edited by MikeF35; 11-22-2022 at 11:18 AM.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Posts
    35
    Right now I'm trying to shoot down some of my reloads. I have quite a few loaded and ready. I want to find the best loads for all my diferent calibers I shoot. I'll do them on my rcbs press once I find the best load I'll fire the dillon back up and run a bunch. I think at that point I'll try the lock out die. With all the stuff these old eyes have to watch one less would be really nice

  8. #28
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Allen View Post
    Right now I'm trying to shoot down some of my reloads. I have quite a few loaded and ready. I want to find the best loads for all my diferent calibers I shoot. I'll do them on my rcbs press once I find the best load I'll fire the dillon back up and run a bunch. I think at that point I'll try the lock out die. With all the stuff these old eyes have to watch one less would be really nice
    I do all load development on a lee press; the Dillon is for cranking rounds out once I’ve got it dialed in. I don’t think I’d really want to ever use the XL750 for development.

  9. #29
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Posts
    35
    I have a 1050 I bought used. Very good and fast press, a little pain to get it where you want it but once thats done pull the handle and a bullet falls out, priceless. But for fooling around trying out diferent loads I use my rcbs. Also for short runs like my 44, 41. But for the 9's through 45 after you get a load you like it's the only way to go (for me). I want it as reliable as I can make it which is why the powder check thread. I don't mind fooling around setting it up but I don't want to be playing around with it when I'm loading. I have yet to find a check I can really trust next up will be the rcbs, no matter how much or little it costs if you don't trust it whats the point?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check