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Thread: 9mm subsonic and suppressors

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
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    9mm subsonic and suppressors

    Well it took 11 months but I finally got the OK from the powers that be and got my suppressor. I got a BANISH 45 from Silencer Central.

    The off the shelf SSs are 147gn. I was wondering what y’all have been casting and shooting sub sonic for the 9mm? If you go with heavier boolits do they stabilize properly? I was unsure if you used heavier projectiles would baffle strikes be an issue? 🤷*♂️ I will be mainly using a G19 or an EXTAR 9.

    You guys tell me your experiences please. What kind of molds you are using, what firearms, powders and load data 👍

    Thank you

    Rm

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    I have had no problems stabilizing a 158gr bullet in a marlin lever gun, sig p226, rossi lever, or 1911. Can’t help with the glock.

    3.4gr of titegroup under a 147gr pill is a pretty standard subsonic load.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    I PC the 147's and use n100 or titegroup til they run 1050 out of ruger PC9 or keltec 2000
    "EXPERT= Ex is a has been, spurt is a drip under pressure" Unknown

  4. #4
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    Back in the 80s or so SEAL Team Six was behind the developing of a 9mm load that had a decent punch, and could be suppressed.
    They arrived at the 147, but found it gave up some accuracy.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    124’s 135’s and 147’s all work with my lone wolf barrel, AAC Illusion suppressor and Glock 17. A lot of 124 grain reloads are subsonic from pistol length barrels unless you are running the loads real spicy.

    I don’t know anything about a Banish 45 but I’m assuming it’s for 45 ACP and baffle strikes would be very uncommon unless the barrel threads are way out of wack.

    147 grain stays subsonic with full strength loads and longer barreled sub machines so it’s works with just about any gun. If you reload and shooting out of a pistol there are lots of options.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmaster14145 View Post
    Well it took 11 months but I finally got the OK from the powers that be and got my suppressor. I got a BANISH 45 from Silencer Central.

    The off the shelf SSs are 147gn. I was wondering what y’all have been casting and shooting sub sonic for the 9mm? If you go with heavier boolits do they stabilize properly? I was unsure if you used heavier projectiles would baffle strikes be an issue? ��*♂️ I will be mainly using a G19 or an EXTAR 9.

    You guys tell me your experiences please. What kind of molds you are using, what firearms, powders and load data ��

    Thank you

    Rm
    Nice! I'm still waiting for my Banish 46.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    I shoot 9mm 165gr Ibejijead coated bullets in a G19 & G34 suppressed without a problem. I dont think you give up any accurracy and I also shoot them in USPSA with a 25yd zero. Mouse Fart loads of 2.7gr of VVN320 and a 1.4 OAL makes USPSA minor power factor all day long and suppress really well.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    I was told by the manufacturer of my primary use can (Bowers - CAC9) to NOT shoot lead through it.
    The lead buildup can lead to baffle strike issues as well as the lube buildup in the can.
    I use 9mm 147gr Berry's FMJ and 3.8 gr WW231 and in the closed bolt UZI SBR it is so quiet you don't need muffs.
    In the MACS, S&W 76 and full auto UZI, not so much.
    Bottom line is no lead bullets through the can.
    Take a look at any .22 can and see what I mean.
    Last edited by FISH4BUGS; 06-20-2022 at 01:03 PM.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    No cans involved, but I settled on the tumble lube Ranch Dog TL357-135-RF from NOE, aka the 35-135D from Accurate in Winchester brass in front of 3.7 grains of Bullseye at 1030fps out of a Glock 17. By the lack of crack, it's still subsonic out of a Ruger Carbine.

    Unless you're looking to retain penetration after expansion, the full 147 grains isn't necessary. The above load (cast of ACWW + 2% tin) took nine gallon jugs of water to stop.

    My gut feeling is that through a can, you'll be filling up your baffles with either spooge from conventional bullet lube, or whatever alox/varnish you're using to tumble with. You'd definitely need to bone up on your suppressor's maintenance protocols and increase the frequency. PC is probably the better path, but as I don't do it, can't really say.
    WWJMBD?

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  10. #10
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    I shoot PC out of 300 Blackout suppressed all the time. Both subs and supers with no issues or build up. I shoot PC in all my pistols, no can for them yet, but working on it. I don't see why there would be a problem there either.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finster101 View Post
    I shoot PC out of 300 Blackout suppressed all the time. Both subs and supers with no issues or build up. I shoot PC in all my pistols, no can for them yet, but working on it. I don't see why there would be a problem there either.
    Is your can user serviceable? That is the biggest issue for most if it is NOT user serviceable.
    The lead DOES build up as does the lube, and eventually leads to problems.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by FISH4BUGS View Post
    Is your can user serviceable? That is the biggest issue for most if it is NOT user serviceable.
    The lead DOES build up as does the lube, and eventually leads to problems.
    Yes it is. When cleaning it I find more powder residue than anything else. I have a can of Frog Lube paste. I don't know if the company is around anymore. I wipe put a fairly heavy film of it in and let it sit sometimes a day or two depending on when I want to use the can. It usually wipes right out taking the fouling with it. It also leaves behind a thin film which helps keep it from sticking to begin with. I do not clean it after every outing so it doesn't matter whether the fouling has hardened a bit or not.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finster101 View Post
    Yes it is. When cleaning it I find more powder residue than anything else. I have a can of Frog Lube paste. I don't know if the company is around anymore. I wipe put a fairly heavy film of it in and let it sit sometimes a day or two depending on when I want to use the can. It usually wipes right out taking the fouling with it. It also leaves behind a thin film which helps keep it from sticking to begin with. I do not clean it after every outing so it doesn't matter whether the fouling has hardened a bit or not.
    Ditto on the Frog Lube.
    I bought two tubs of it and it is probably a lifetime supply.
    Good stuff and makes cleaning cans much easier.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    Using coated rounds (either home powder coated or commercial HT coating) has solved all my leading issues with suppressors. I still get carbon fouling, but no leading.

    After being lazy and suffering through an extreme cleaning event for not cleaning one of my suppressors for about 5000 rounds, I just recently started coating my suppressor internals with Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant and fouling seems to wipe right off. I'll need a little more time using it to say if it actually works better than other lubes and greases.
    Alcohol Inventory Reduction Specialist (Journeyman Level)

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