Dremel Accessories

[georgerkahn]

I have one real Dremel and two chinese copys (like them better - ergonomics ) The real Dremel has a little keyless check . One chinese one at my electronics bench gets the most work grinding jiffy boxes and general tidying up - its wired up to a foot pedal switch best idea I had yet!!
A real one is high side of hundred bucks for the bare machine I got the copy(s) for around 50 with a box of accessories - then later little boxes of grinding wheels , sanding discs showed up for 8 - 12 bucks - I use (break too) a lot of the skinny cutoff wheels, lots of the drum sanding discs, and the set of burrs that Sasquatch showed earlier. Looked at the quick connect system - couldnt see the value. One tip - find a proper open end spanner that fits the collet chuck and keep it right close makes tool changing much easier.

You wrote, "A real one is high side of hundred bucks". Check this one out:

[GhostHawk]

I have gotten the Majority of mine from Harbor Freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=Dremel%20bits

Category
Power Tools (7)
Home & Security (7)
Brand
Warrior (5)
Chicago Electric Power Tools (2)

50 Pc. Diamond Rotary Point Set
WARRIOR
50 Pc. Diamond Rotary Point Set
(171)
$19.99
In Stock at Fargo, ND


Diamond Point Rotary Bit Set 20 Pc.
WARRIOR
Diamond Point Rotary Bit Set 20 Pc.
$7.99

20 Pc. Carbide Rotary Micro Bit Assorted Set
WARRIOR 20 Pc. Carbide Rotary Micro Bit Assorted Set
$7.99

Diamond Rotary Bit Set 4 Pc.
WARRIOR

Diamond Rotary Bit Set 4 Pc.
(186)
$4.99

5 Pc. Stone Rotary Grinding Bits with 1/8 in. Shank
CHICAGO ELECTRIC POWER TOOLS
5 Pc. Stone Rotary Grinding Bits with 1/8 in. Shank

$3.99

[jonp]

I have several attachments but the ones I use the most are the blade grinding one for lawnmower blades/chainsaw/etc (comes in a kit), the bits and end to cut holes in sheetrock or wood and the flexible attachment arm.

[jonp]

Those are handy as a pocket on a shirt. I have two. Sears has the best selection in my area. On the small disks I double them up. I bought a cable drive for mine but never had a use for it. I don't even know why I bought it. It was there. I work on carburetors and couldn't get along without it. It's handy for replacing bushings in moving parts. I have used the same ones almost every working day for 30+years without a problem. Just have your glasses on when in use. I had one tooth longer than the rest. I ground it down and saved $300. <what the doc was going to charge.> I don't see how people get along without one.

I'm hoping you are being sarcastic with this? I did use one to drill a fingernail and it worked fine but facing a mirror and sticking it into my mouth is end of the world type stuff.

[country gent]

with the burrs I FIND THE double cut are less "Grabby" than the single cuts. I use several in the shop electric and air powered. The dental tools are usually 80,000-100,000 rpm and also have a means of a water flush on the bit. Use bits rated for the speed of the tool. The burrs are safer normally stones cut off wheels felt bobs may come unglued in the higher speed tools.

M dremil flex shaft is rated at 20,000 rpm I seldom run it that fast. I have several pencil grinders rated at 80,000 with a 3 ft whip on them. They do very good and will accept 1/8" shank tools. A double cut burr in one is a very handy set up or a dine stone, brushes and felts dont do as well at those rpms. A Small cut off wheel really does well in them. Several 1/4" dies grinders straight and 90* the 90* has a 2" quick lock sanding disc in it and again a 3 ft whip it is very handy for shaping and finishing. I 100,000 rpm dotco with burrs handles inletting and odds and ends at that rpm and a double cut burr it dosnt want to follow wood grain or wander. I have a bigger jet 1/4" Extended that is setup to mount in the aloris tooling in the lathes for grinding chuck jaws in and light Id grinding. A 1/8' pencil grinder is set up for use in the mill for engraving lines and graduations,

START Out buying the kits several of them and a couple sets of carbide burrs. THE Kits will give you a good selection and a decent compartmentalized container, then replace bits as needed. The brushes are very handy

Remember to lube the flex shafts and hand pieces as recommended, work slow and easy with them let the tool do the work, dress tools before using to true up and sharpen dress as needed. AND if planning to use it to finish leave material for you to finish this gets a lot in trouble as they make to size then make it small finishing.

[deltaenterprizes]

Walmart has a nice selection of Dremel tool bits and some with their brand at fair prices in my area.

[ascast]

I have the Flex shaft, a 90 degree head, the three jaw chuck, (( buy an extra jaw )) ( a must have-do first - don't leave store with out - double check while in car before turning on engine ), the drill press mount. The quick change cut off is also a must. The thin wheels break too quickly. The sanding wheels with rubber centers are nice. The 3 jaw chuck allows the use on ANY drill bit or tool you need. Small drills need to spin fast to cut.
Think carburetor jets, hydraulic ports, etc. The drill press mount is a third hand, a must have at times. Flex just handy as heck. Buy the big tool kits at Christmas time. All of the above. Have fun.

[country gent]

I have the drill press stand from foredom for my flex shaft machine its a very handy accessory. I like for a lot of things other than drilling a small hole. It has a very accurate stop. Jeweling is one thing it excels at.

[bangerjim]

SPEED

Some of the deciding factors on operating speed are:
1. material you are working on. Plastics tend to melt at high speeds.
2. Size of bit /drum/blade you have in the power tool. Small diameters = high speed. Larger diameters = slower speed.
3. Balance of accessory you have in the tool. Some cheap attachments (HF) are not balanced and will wobble horribly at high speed! Watch larger diameter sanding drums/cut-off blades/ saw blades. Especially the ones you mount yourself on a mandrel.
4. Your skill and experience.

[GregLaROCHE]

You wrote, "A real one is high side of hundred bucks". Check this one out:

I got a Dremel 3000 with flex shaft and a few tools for under $100.

I’m definitely going to get some carbide burrs.

[Mal Paso]

I grew up with Dremel, dad was a serious modeler but I find 1/4 inch die grinders with carbide burrs more useful and for the most part better built. A Makita Die Grinder can be had for around $100 and removes material much faster if it's larger size will work on your project.

[M-Tecs]

I grew up with Dremel, dad was a serious modeler but I find 1/4 inch die grinders with carbide burrs more useful and for the most part better built. A Makita Die Grinder can be had for around $100 and removes material much faster if it's larger size will work on your project.

I agree. I have several of both and rarely use 1/8" Dremel tooling. The 1/4 air or electric die grinders get 98% of the usage.

[DougGuy]

I used Dremel for years and years and years doing guitar work, and especially for polishing out the high reach 1911 mods that I did after checkering, I gently radius and polish feed ramps, and I found some small flapper wheels that will go into the freshly cut throat of a 9mm barrel and polish the freebore, so many things, BUT.. I invested in a Grobet USA jeweler's flex shaft that's like a Foredom tool, the motor hangs and there is a foot controller, <<<THIS is the nicest and easiest to use tool, despite the utility of the dremel tool once you get one of these, you are in heaven...

I use the fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheels in both dremel and the grobet motors.

You simply MUST invest in a Cratex kit!! This rubber mounted abrasive is the cat's pyjamas for a gunsmith!! I buy up surplus cratex bits off ebay as they are quite expensive, and for most gun work you only want fine and xtra fine grits.

I chamfer a lot of cylinders, used to do them in the lathe but I got some fine grit cylindrical burrs and I sharpen them against a running bench grinder in the grobet flex shaft tool to shape them into a point which I use to chamfer, by hand, then follow up with the cratex rubber abrasive to polish, it works very well.

Those cylindrical burrs posted by Sasquatch-1 are great when sharp, they don't do metal very well but are great for wood, plastic, and some aluminum (until the teeth load up) these get hot, and then dull VERY quickly.

All of the dremel rotary stuff works really well, but ALL have rather short tool life so buy several when you buy them.

The cutoff wheels and the tiny stiff brushes are the most used here. I think the brushes are part 443, they are tiny and very stiff, they will remove that lava-rock carbon from cylinders like nobody's business, in fact they are almost the only mechanical means to clean this stuff, it is hard as glass and VERY resistant to most attempts to remove it. Part 532 I think is the stainless equivalent.

[Green Frog]

For the “beginner” who just uses his Dremel-type tool occasionally, the little clear plastic sectional box with a variety of bits and bobs from Dremel at places like Lowes and Wal*Mart is a great addition to the work bench. Once you have even a small assortment like this you can add to it as you discover what you need and what works. I saw the basic set on the bench of a friend who was a real, working full time gunsmith, and he turned me onto the idea of getting it.

You can buy cheap bits and bobs, but they wear quickly and provide the danger of coming apart with speed and pressure… buy good ones and always wear eye protection regardless! I almost lost my right eye because I was too lazy to put on safety glasses for just a “quick adjustment” on a 45 frame that I was assembling.

Froggie

[brassrat]

I can work into mobile/ forest dentistry with my Ryobi 18 V. machine. LGB

[atr]

I miss my Dremel!
I gave mine to my daughter-in-law when she started her taxidermy business and on more than one occasion I have wished I still had that tool. I think it is time for me to get a replacement; i.e. an excuse to buy another tool!

[David2011]

The tools that I use the most are a carbide 1/8” burr by Dremel, the fiberglass cutoff wheels, sanding drums, all shapes and materials of brushes and the zip cutting bits. I generally get less than 30 seconds out of the very thin unreinforced cutoff wheels. The stones don’t get much use. I find that the lowest speed on a Dremel is still too fast for polishing plastics. A sewn cotton buffing wheel on the Foredom polishes my watch crystal very nicely at a far lower speed. I have Cratex points but prefer to use them with the Foredom due to its lower speed and greater torque. Another handy accessory is the router adapter. I don’t use it often but when it’s needed there’s no substitute.

One accessory I have but don’t love is the keyless chuck that replaces the collets and nut. Mine loosens far too often. I’ve never had the collets loosen like the chuck does.

[LAGS]

I have the same issue with my chuck loosening up.
But if I tighten it up with a pair of pliers , it works better.
But still not if you are working on metal and grinding hard.
But my other two rotary tools like Craftsman and Ryobe have the collets.

[KCSO]

See your local dentist !!! They can only use those carbide bits once and if you ever break a tap off in a hole a carbide dental bit will eat the tap right out. I got a small box of them about 10 years ago and they saved me a number of times. After that I only rarly use a dremel for grinding on guns or gun parts, IMHO Dremel is the Bubba's favorite tool. I much prefer a small sharp file for metal removal and save the dremel for final polish.

[LAGS]

In California,
I asked my dentist about used tips.
He said that they were not allowed to give them away , because of health reasons.