ID on Rolling Block

[36g]

I picked up this RB and it's in need of some parts - extractor and firing pin and whatever activates the extractor and holds in the firing pin. I can't see any means to retain the firing pin in the breech block. Still need to do a chamber cast to verify caliber. It appears to need the straight extractor and I'm thinking a No. 1 RB in .43 Egyptian. Am I even close?

[Gewehr-Guy]

It does indeed look like an Egyptian RB, but the breech block has been altered. It appears they ground off the high edges of the semi circular relief cut, maybe to try to make it fit a later flat block action ? And there should be a screw hole to retain the firing pin.
Does it show any sign of welding it shut?

[Kraschenbirn]

Looks to be, definitely, a #1, but all the Egyptian #1 RBs I've seen have been marked with Arabic characters on the barrel, between the rear sight and receiver, or on the receiver ring, or both and I don't see any stampings on yours. Also, the chamber mouth appears (to me) to be larger (relative to barrel shank O.D.) than on my Egyptian #1. Have you measured I.D. of chamber mouth? The .43 Egyptian round has a nominal base diameter of .581 and a rim diameter of .668.

Between 1867 and 1900 #1s were made in proprietary calibers for a number of nations so you may need to make a chamber cast.

Bill

[RustyReel]

Looks like someone really got carried away polishing it.

[Red River Rick]

Obviously re-barreled for a shotgun, hence the rework on the breach block. Seems the extractor is missing as well.

[36g]

The upper tang is lightly stamped Remington - last date looks like April 17, 1880. Chamber dimensions (as best measured with a caliper) are 0.693" rim diameter and 0.597" base diameter. Base to shoulder length approx. 1.25". Only marking on barrel is along left side by receiver ring - appears to be Arabic - a single character. No other markings on barrel at all. No indications on the breech block of any through hole for a pin or screw. Interior of firing pin hole is cleanly drilled with no burrs or indication of welds or pin plugs. As received there was no finish at all on it with a rusty bore. Intended use is as a movie prop so soaked it in evaporust and bore brushed it to clean up bore a bit.

[Gewehr-Guy]

Here is a thought, could the breech block be an unfinished reproduction casting? There is a place in Oklahoma that used to sell rifle action castings, that you had to machine and finish, but I can't remember the name of the place. I need to check into getting a couple blocks for the Swedish rolling blocks, as they are nearly identical to yours.

[John Boy]

For parts … http://www.rollingblockparts.com/.

[marlinman93]

It's a BP era #1 and uses the sliding extractor. The extractor has a leg on it that fits into the notch you can see on the left side of the breech block to retract it when opening the block.
Numrich also has these in stock cheap, but all are cut for the smaller .45-70 rim, so would need reworking slightly to fit a larger rim diameter.

[36g]

Thanks to all for the info! I have a sliding extractor on order and some new springs and firing pin. Only outstanding question at this point is how the firing pin is to be retained. Push comes to shove I'll drill and tap a hole for a retaining screw similar to the original design.

[marlinman93]

Thanks to all for the info! I have a sliding extractor on order and some new springs and firing pin. Only outstanding question at this point is how the firing pin is to be retained. Push comes to shove I'll drill and tap a hole for a retaining screw similar to the original design.

When the hammer was polished out, it likely obscured the cross pin that is through the hammer to retain the firing pin. You may need to get a really strong magnifier to see it, and hopefully you can locate one end that way. Otherwise you're going to need another just like this hammer to determine where that cross drift pin is!

[36g]

When the hammer was polished out, it likely obscured the cross pin that is through the hammer to retain the firing pin. You may need to get a really strong magnifier to see it, and hopefully you can locate one end that way. Otherwise you're going to need another just like this hammer to determine where that cross drift pin is!

There is no cross pin in it as that would show in the firing pin hole. There is no indication in the firing pin hole of any cross hole being drilled, either for a pin or a screw.

[marlinman93]

There is no cross pin in it as that would show in the firing pin hole. There is no indication in the firing pin hole of any cross hole being drilled, either for a pin or a screw.

Is there a slot in the bottom side of the hammer that's about .10" wide? If so, then that's for the firing pin retainer, and it's held in by a pin. The pin doesn't go through the firing pin bore, it's below the bore and the tip of the retainer slides up into the pin to hold it in place.
There has to be something that enters the firing pin bore to retain the firing pin. Can you post a picture of the bottom side of your hammer block?

[36g]

Is there a slot in the bottom side of the hammer that's about .10" wide? If so, then that's for the firing pin retainer, and it's held in by a pin. The pin doesn't go through the firing pin bore, it's below the bore and the tip of the retainer slides up into the pin to hold it in place.
There has to be something that enters the firing pin bore to retain the firing pin. Can you post a picture of the bottom side of your hammer block?

The fourth picture in the OP shows the bottom of the breech block. There are three shallow grooves but no slot.

[marlinman93]

The fourth picture in the OP shows the bottom of the breech block. There are three shallow grooves but no slot.

I have no idea what held the firing pin in on that breech block. I've got them with a screw, a pin, and the lever that intersects the firing pin. Never seen one with nothing holding it?
looked through my spares, but both blocks I have are rotary extractor style and use the slot I referred to. And my earlier sliding extractor block rifles are Sporting #1 and use a screw through the side.

[elmacgyver0]

I bet you bought this from Apex.
SARCO sells that breechblock for $85.
Those blocks are not completely finished, you will have to complete it yourself.
If you are an avid parts kit rebuilder it should not be a problem.
Hey, I'm in the same boat, I bought the "short rifle", sold as a wall hanger, bet that was the way yours was sold too.
On mine the barrel was chopped down and shoved into the receiver and welded.
I had to use a carbide burr to grind away the weld so I could remove the barrel, which pretty much looks like a sewer pipe.
That is about the point I'm at now.

[36g]

I bet you bought this from Apex.
SARCO sells that breechblock for $85.
Those blocks are not completely finished, you will have to complete it yourself.
If you are an avid parts kit rebuilder it should not be a problem.
Hey, I'm in the same boat, I bought the "short rifle", sold as a wall hanger, bet that was the way yours was sold too.
On mine the barrel was chopped down and shoved into the receiver and welded.
I had to use a carbide burr to grind away the weld so I could remove the barrel, which pretty much looks like a sewer pipe.
That is about the point I'm at now.

Yup, Apex. I can certainly drill a cross pin hole and use a pin or configure it for a screw. I received an extractor today. My plan is for use as a movie prop. I may sleeve the chamber to accept either a .45-70 blank or even a .45 LC blank just to be able to have a "fireable" prop.

[1Hawkeye]

I agree that the breech block doesn't look right. It should have a hole in the left side for the firing pin retaining screw and the color doesn't match as for the extractor it should take the normal sliding type .

[36g]

Made a firing pin and drilled the retaining pin hole. Decided to hit the bare metal with some Oxpho blue. Sliding extractor is installed. Plan is to make some chamber inserts to accept maybe a .45 LC or .38 blank round for movie use purposes. Maybe I'll just make a mold and cast .43 Egyptian polyurethans shells to take BP and a #209 primer for blanks. In any case, here are some photos.

[Buzz Krumhunger]

Looks good