At what point is it the alloy ?

[Wolfdog91]

At what point do you look at you boolits not casting right and say " hay something's wrong with my alloy"

[Taterhead]

Interesting question. Following for answers. Having only started casting in 2016, I'm comparatively new compared to many here.

I can say thus far that my casting problems have never been the fault of the alloy.

Begs the question... what's got ya wondering about your alloy?

[M-Tecs]

It's a process of elimination if you are not getting the results you want. Not that many variables. You can control alloy and mold temp so that normally is the starting point. Next is the mold venting. If it's a new mold that can be an issue. If it's a proven mold unless it dirty or over smoked that should not be an issue. Fill speeds can create issues also. If I still have problems I switch to linotype proven alloy. If I can't get that to cast it's not the alloy.

What issues are you having?

[Winger Ed.]

If it's contaminated, you can look at it and tell.
If it clumps up and looks like oatmeal--- it's the alloy.

Other times, you might just be using a wrong alloy-- too hard or too soft for what you want it to do.

If your alloy doesn't do quite right in the mold, and the mold is OK, it's usually too much or too little heat.

[justindad]

Not sure when it’s the alloy, but it surely is never me!

[Land Owner]

What makes you believe you may have an "alloy problem"? If they "look funny" as boolits fall from the mold, there are any number of reasons. MOST cast boolits WILL SHOOT, even wrinkled and frosted ones. Whether they will shoot accurately, or not, is an equation in MANY variables.

What are you trying to accomplish? Not knowing that, I only speculate.

If I may, find ONE alloy and perfect that. My preference is 49/49/2 percent - Pb/WW/Sn. It melts well, casts well (provided I heat things up sufficiently), provides a LOT of usable unwrinkled, unfrosted boolits, mostly for handguns, though by the thousands for testing / plinking / selling (maybe) in single shot 223 handi-rifles. For handguns I shoot for accuracy within 30-feet; for rifles, nothing past 200 yds...ymmv.

[Dusty Bannister]

If you have been casting without issue, and change to a different batch, then perhaps you can question the alloy. One way to check that is to try the same alloy in other molds that you know are capable of good casting quality. If they produce junk, then maybe check the alloy further.That is one good reason to work with as large a batch as possible. Also, use caution when making your batches and not just dump in "mystery metal" unless you like some interesting casting sessions. Alloy is not the first thing I look to when having troubles.

[Sasquatch-1]

I do not shoot high power rifles (only handguns and traditional muzzle loaders.) The longest range I usually shoot is 40 yards with handguns. So, with that being said, I am not overly concerned about percentages in my alloy. The biggest problem I get is wrinkling. When this happens, I try to make sure there is no oils of any type in the mold and if it still persist, I add tin.

[243winxb]

When things are not right after fluxing and casting, shut the pot down. Let the alloy fully cool.

Next, bring the pot temperature up VERY SLOWLY. Just till the alloy becomes liquid. No fluxing, or mixing allowed.
The oatmeal needs carefully skimmed from the surface and trashed.

Now turn heat up to maximum in Lee pot. Flux with 50/50 bees wax/alox. Vapor should catch fire. Clean dross off.
Start casting till bullets show frost, drop pot temperature a little. Allow mold to cool a little.

This has removed a high percentage of copper, that keeps pluging the bottom pour spout. (Babbitt alloy)


Other fill out problems- sprue plate hole to small. Hole in botton pour pot need inlarged.



More- https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...g-bullets.310/

[reddog81]

What are the problems you are experiencing? Without knowing what the issue is it will be hard to help.

If I can’t good fill out with a mold I try to cast faster to get the mold hotter or turn up the lead temperature. If that doesn’t work out I put more tin into the alloy as it reduces the surface tension of the alloy and helps the alloy flow.

[bangerjim]

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please elaborate on the "problems" you are having. We cannot tell from afar.

banger

[Bazoo]

I have had an ornery batch of wheel weight alloy. I rendered it down in smaller batches and one batch just wouldn’t cast worth a darn. I’d get inclusions, and incomplete fillout. I got frustrated. I couldn’t figure it out over several casting sessions. So I finally thought maybe it’s the alloy. I poured it back into ingots. Then started a fresh pot. Problem solved. It cast like normal. I always add tin at the first sign of it being ornery and that always helps. But it didn’t help that ornery batch. I even posted about it here and got many of the vague responses you get.

The answer was to separate it and mix it an ingot or two at a time with good alloy until it was used up. I never figured out what was its problem, but I finally got past it and figured out it was indeed the alloy and not me.

If you’ve been casting fine and then all the sudden start having problems after topping the pot off, or stopping and starting again and refilling the pot, suspect an ornery batch of alloy.

[charlie b]

I have to say I've only had one alloy problem when casting. But, the only lead I have used is 100% lead sheet, wheel weights (in the old days before zinc and such), and purchased alloys (mostly Lyman #2). The 100% lead was mixed with the WW or Lyman alloy.

The alloy problem? Trying to cast pure lead And, yes, I knew it was going to be difficult. Just wanted to try it. Didn't work (poor fill out). After mixing it with a bit of WW it was fine. I shot a lot of pistol bullets that were 50/50 WW/pure.

[Bazoo]

I’ve found fluxing with beeswax to give the best lead pouring properties. Sawdust makes the lead somewhat sluggish, paraffin somewhere in between. Beeswax and 2% tin is the remedy for many a problematic casting session I’ve found.

[charlie b]

That 2% tin is the key.

[bangerjim]

Sn is your "leeeeetle friend" when having mold fill problems. (If that is your problem. You have not told us your specific problem yet.) It lowers the surface tension and allows free flow of the molten alloy into nooks and crannies of your molds.

I generally run at least 2% Sn in all my alloys, because it does a good job.....................and I have lots & lots of it stashed away.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

what point?
the point after you've mastered the alloy temp, pour speed/head pressure/mold venting, and dump rhythm (mold temp).
...and...
most alloy problems are dirty alloy, as opposed to contaminated (with undesired metals), so fluxing/reducing is all that's needed to fix that.

[Green Frog]

Before I could answer your question, I would have to know what it was about your bullets was indicating to you that anything was wrong. Assuming you are dealing with actual binary (lead-tin) or tertiary (lead-tin-antimony) alloy without significant contamination, you should be able to get a virtually perfect cast bullet out of virtually any decent (and properly pepped) mould with proper temps and casting technique. Now, whether it will be right in your specific gun is yet another proposition. More information, please!

Froggie

[rintinglen]

Lot of good advice here, but I have to say that alloy is the LAST thing I check if I am having Problems. I have most commonly found that I have oil contamination, if a new mold, or else my temperature was not hot enough for that mold at my cadence. Your alloy in the pot should be smooth, shiny almost mirror like, not lumpy, when you get done fluxing. If not, you may have a problem.

[Wolfdog91]

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please elaborate on the "problems" you are having. We cannot tell from afar.

banger

Well definitely my .22 cal just arnt fing about right at all. My .30cal stuff is OK .. I guess but I'm not really interested in OK or good enough I want my casts from be as good as possible. I have a PID I'm casting only at 745-755 max I keep my molds pretty hot, I still need to get a lazer thermometer for them.... But the only thing I can figure is it's this lead I've just been practicing with. It's just some wheel weight stuff I made a while ago. It's been fluxed and fluxed melted and re melted.
But my question really goes beyond that and my little deal here honestly

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