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Thread: Is it possible to overbake?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Is it possible to overbake?

    Is it possible to bake the bullets too long? Or too hot?

    I just recently experienced my first powder coats that failed the hammer test. For years they all passed the hammer test so the only "failures" were from poor coverage not failure to cure.

    The first time I had a failure to cure I didn't get good coverage with the first coat so I gave them a second coat. On the second coat I failed to start my timer so they baked well passed the 25 minutes I usually set them for. When I pulled them from the oven they looked well coated but had not-so-glossy coating and some of the bullets that were directly over the heating elements had very slight slumpage (almost looked like it could have been fixed by sizing). Before sizing I gave one the hammer test and to my horror the paint flaked off the out edge as the bullet flattened. I found a reject bullet from this batch that had been given the first coat with the others but I rejected it before putting a second coat on it. That bullet passed the hammer test.

    Now just yesterday I made a batch of roundballs and coated them (one, good coat). This time I stopped the oven shortly after the 25 minute timer. After they cooled I hammer tested one and it failed. Granted since these will all be surrounded by a cotton patch when loaded in a muzzleloader I don't need to re-melt these, but still - I wonder what's up.

    I've tested the oven with an oven thermometer and it's accurate. The 400° setting produces a 400° reading on the thermometer just as it has for years.

    I read this forum for quite some time and I've never read anyone having problems with baking too long. Too hot produces melted bullets, but I have not read of bad consequences from baking too long. Is it possible? If so where's the margin? If 20-30 minutes in a pre-heated oven seems to be the standard recommendation, has anyone gone past that for say 45 minutes? an hour? an hour and a half? What happens?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I always use 400F for TEN (10) minutes. no more no less. That's after the powder turns shiny. Perfect coats every time with anything from HF red to several of Smokes powders. I have never gone as long as you since I started doing this back in 2013. There is no reason to. Most powders I have seen & used state 400F for 10 minutes. Where did you come up with this 25 minute bake requirement???????

    You never did tell us the brand/color of powder(s) that are giving you problems.

    banger

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    too hot! When they get close to slump temp the alloy starts to 'bead' up and PC loses it's grip. above cook temp and below slump, the PC loses it's 'cure' and will come off in strips. I cook at proper temp for an hour, no problem.
    Whatever!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    I always use 400F for TEN (10) minutes. no more no less. That's after the powder turns shiny. Perfect coats every time with anything from HF red to several of Smokes powders. I have never gone as long as you since I started doing this back in 2013. There is no reason to. Most powders I have seen & used state 400F for 10 minutes. Where did you come up with this 25 minute bake requirement???????

    You never did tell us the brand/color of powder(s) that are giving you problems.

    banger
    I am using Smokes.

    I don't know where I came up with the 20+ minute bake time. But it seems to be referenced in many threads although, now that I look back it doesn't seem to be you stating the 20+ minute bake time.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    too hot! When they get close to slump temp the alloy starts to 'bead' up and PC loses it's grip. above cook temp and below slump, the PC loses it's 'cure' and will come off in strips. I cook at proper temp for an hour, no problem.
    400° is too hot? What do you usually bake at?

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Per most of the manuf'ing folks (and Smoke) it says 400°F for 20 minutes. That's putting a cold bullet in a preheated oven. I'm thinking if you watch the bullets you'll find that's pretty close to the 10 minutes AFTER the powder has started to melt giving it a shiny look.

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    I am familiar with powder coating steel and other metals but not lead (nowhere to cast).

    I remember having issues with a second coat on steel.
    The issue was that the static could not build up to get an adequate coating on the material. We used an electrostatic system.
    Never rebaked the parts with a second coat so not sure if the material will not stick to itself after it cures.
    Like casting silicone rubber (2 part, not calk) after it cures nothing will stick to it.
    It is a thermoset polimer so it may or may not stick to an already cured surface.

    Jaaymar

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Driver man's Avatar
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    I bake for 30 minutes at 400 deg from a preheated oven and get perfect results but that was not always the case. I found that the tray I stand the boolits on originally was to thin and I would get occasional slump with the coating failing the hammer test. I reasoned that the oven ambient temperature might reach 400deg but the radiant temperature from the heating elements must be heating the oven tray to reach much higher temperatures in order to cause the boolit slump (melting) I was experiencing. I found a heavier duty oven tray and also shielded the elements and have since had perfect results. I use Smokes powder and also preheat the boolits (just warm to the touch) and have done thousands.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Also, bullet size/weight affects cure time. A heavy bullet takes longer to get to 400, but a smaller bullet such as your round ball, got there quicker and thus cooked longer and maybe hotter. If your conditions are good, but on the edge of too hot with say a .44 cal 265 or 300 grain bullet, the round balls might have gotten too hot. Nothing changed in the oven but the size/mass of what you are coating.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy FrankJD's Avatar
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    YES! Been there, done that!! Too hot and too long!!!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master slim1836's Avatar
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    Is your oven a convection oven? You may be getting hot spots in areas.

    Slim
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenH View Post
    Per most of the manuf'ing folks (and Smoke) it says 400°F for 20 minutes. That's putting a cold bullet in a preheated oven. I'm thinking if you watch the bullets you'll find that's pretty close to the 10 minutes AFTER the powder has started to melt giving it a shiny look.
    That is the reasoning. 20 to 25 minutes putting cold 100 to 200 grn bullets into preheated oven.
    Larger bullets will take more time to get up to the shiny stage before the "10 minute " cure time starts. 250 to 300 might be as long as 30 minutes. Ect, ect
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  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I believe that's why Eastwood has the additional time for baking. 450F until the powder gets 'shiny', then 20min at 400F. The first part for me always took about 3min.

    Now days I put them in for 23min at 400F using Smoke's powder. Same results. Shiny after about 3min. The coating still does it's job even with gas checked rifle bullets at 2400fps. Plain base at 1500fps.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use an oven thermometer and a convection oven.

    Baking Smoke's powders at 400 for 20 minutes gave me some problems with high nitro powders like Titegroup. Smoke's carolina blue turns green and soft after a year or so on the bullet bases. Recent tests of 25 minutes show no such problem so I have been baking longer. My problem happened with relatively small bullets (125 gr) , which would have reached part metal temp of 400 relatively soon.

    I bake all bullets 25 minutes now. I have also experimented with water dropping after PC and the longer bake time gives more effect on AC alloy and WD bullets lose less hardness when WD again after PC if they were baked longer.

    400 is the bottom end of any heat treating effects and is good for an additional 1-3 BHN depending on antimony percentage. I have successfully baked as high and long as 425 for 25 minutes and the PC looks great and passes smash and nitroglycerin exposure tests. 425 really gains some hardness over 400.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    High velocity rifle boolits get a one hour bake at 425*f , pistol boolits 25-30 minutes at 425*f.
    This is after the powder coat paint becomes glossy. Then both styles are splashed in ice water after baking. Works for me. Hammer test has never failed.
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  16. #16
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    I put my boolits into a cold oven, turn it to 400F and the timer for 45 minutes and forget about them. Works every time for me. If you are using higher temperatures, that my cause the powder to break down.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    If there's such a thing as baking too long then I haven't seen it. I heat treat after coating and sizing. Coated bullets spend an hour at about 415-420F then quenched (Smoke's powders). Zero issues whatsover and no difference between the coating before or after the heat treat. Well into 5 digits of quantity this way.

    Probably has something to do with what was going on between coat 1 and 2.
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  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy FrankJD's Avatar
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    I intentionally "overbaked" 35 min @ 435F. Cooked and singed the Eastman Gloss Clear powder.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master brassrat's Avatar
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    I generally set for 15 minutes at 400* on cold oven and works fine. When its hot, I bring it down to 10 or so. Getting them to coat is a pain but not baking. Never tested them.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Taterhead View Post
    If there's such a thing as baking too long then I haven't seen it. I heat treat after coating and sizing. Coated bullets spend an hour at about 415-420F then quenched (Smoke's powders). Zero issues whatsover and no difference between the coating before or after the heat treat. Well into 5 digits of quantity this way.

    Probably has something to do with what was going on between coat 1 and 2.
    What method have you used to measure the BHN of you heat treated/PC'd boolits?
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check