1911 Barrel Locking Lug rubs cartridge when loaded.

[justindad]

I don’t suppose this is normal. Any harm in removing 0.010” material at a time until this goes away? This is a 3” Kimber, and getting failure to reach battery is a known issue. I have improved this pistol a lot, and I figure this is one more improvement to be made.
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[Remiel]

That's a slide stop/release not a barrel locking lug, but yes you could replace or fit it without issue,

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[Rapier]

The locking lugs on a 1911 are on the top of the barrel right in front of the hood, not on the bottom of the barrel.

If this is a reload, then seat he bullet deaper, about 1/2 the front driving band. It appears the bullets are diving off the magazine follower. Try opening the feed lips, both, just slightly, with needle nose pliers, long wise, with a twist, slow feed a dummy cartridge and watch it carefully, it should go right into the chamber, if not, adjust the magazine lips until that mag feeds empty brass. When adjusted, repeat on the other mags.
98% of failures to feed with a magazine gun, is related to the magazine itself.

[Bmi48219]

98% of failures to feed with a magazine gun, is related to the magazine itself.

Have to agree with this. Maybe 99%.

[1006]

I would double check what is contacting the bullet in the picture. Seating the bullet deeper may be the fix. However, it is not uncommon for Kimber to leave a sharp edge on the bottom of the chamber’s mouth -where the ramp transitions into the chamber- that may catch the lip of the case, or the shoulder of the bullet. This creates a “3 point jam” with the tip of the bullet wedged up into the top of the chamber, the case body stuck against the top of the ramp just behind the bullet, and the rear of the case jammed just under the extractor.

You might start by just seating the bullet deeper.

[1006]

Some helpful reading:

https://rangehot.com/category/1911tuner/

[DougGuy]

You might want to pull the barrel and see if your rounds will plunk and turn freely when the barrel is outside the gun. This is the most common reason a 1911 will feed, but not go all the way into battery. Rounds bump the slide stop without problem, you should really pull the barrel and do the plunk test before anything else.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

If I'm looking at your photos correctly, the portion you have circled in red is the back end of the slide stop. It is shaped the way it is, rounded from bottom to top to assist reinsertion of the slide stop into the dismounting notch on the left side of the slide when the pistol has been field stripped and is being reassembled. The nub is flat on the bottom and engages the magazine's follower after the last shot has been fired. The follower rises and exerts upward pressure on the nub and causes the slide stop lever to engage the slide stop notch. If you file or polish the nub back toward the hole excessively it will fail to engage the follower and your slide will not stay back after the last shot. Looking at the photos it appears that it is a bit long and extends farther into the magazine well than is necessary, and some careful filing and polishing while maintaining the original shape should work--but slowly and carefully with repeated trials is the word. Too much and you'll be looking for a new part.

[1Hawkeye]

Looks like kimber put a .38 super caliber slide stop in your .45 auto. Swapping the slide stop will cure the issue.

[justindad]

Thanks for all your replies. I’m thinking that some light hand work with Lansky grind stones is in order. If it is a .38 Super part, I’m probably better off buying a replacement.
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To answer some of the questions above: the brass is also striking the slide stop, so seating the bullet deeper won’t help. I confirmed this mark is not from the feed ramp, because there is another mark roughly 15 degrees around the bullet. I found this issue because I was wondering why there was two different marks after I fed & ejected this round. This round did pass the plunk the test.

[Char-Gar]

Grump, grump. When folks start chopping, sawing and cutting on JMB divine creation, the 1911 pistol, no good will come from it. These amputated pistols should not be called 1911s for they are not. Grump, grump, grump!

[45DUDE]

I am leaning to post #9 1Hawkeye -or seat the boolit deeper and back off on the charge a little. I would buy a new slide stop <a different brand> and not file the original. If you shot factory ammo everything would probably work as it should. You can't unfile it. Some 1911 slide stops are a little different. I am using a heavy boolit in one of mine and works fine but it wouldn't work in my shooting buddy's gun. I let him use my slide stop and it worked. Mine is a Kimber also.

[DougGuy]

You can find slide stops in varying diameters. Usually they would be .199" but a .203" if it fits, will snug the barrel up into the locking lugs a bit farther and lock the gun a bit tighter when in battery.

A lot of things on the 1911 platform respond favorably to a bit of tweaking, ejector, extractor, barrel link, etc, but I have never had to tweak the part of the slide stop you have circled. Increase the divot where the pin rests to make it less likely to travel upwards and lock the slide open during a string of fire, but never had to do anything to the inside the frame part.

[Gtek]

If it were mine I think the first thing I would do is sterile clean that area forward of stop and that pie shape of frame up to ramp with a black Sharpie. Go fire it and check through rounds fired for contact points. Maybe magazine is releasing wonky, take Sharpie with you and try other magazines after confirmed passing of plunk test before you left the house. A buddy had a 3" and it had a square cut extractor face and you could not get half way through a magazine with FMJ. I put radius into bottom of and polished up extractor and it runs 99%+ now even with my continued disdain from day one after I knew he bought it. 4.25" barrel is IMHO is pushing the design, you 3" guys I will reserve comment but I would suggest a backup piece!

[skeettx]

File it off,
Part easily replaced if needed
Looking forward to your report
Mike

[Gtek]

Old eyeballs here but expanded on desktop, I do not see the slide stop protruding into the well.

[45DUDE]

Make some dummies and load and rack the slide. I think you will find the first one is the only one that rubs. Once the mag is inserted the rest of the boolits are over the slide stop.

[justindad]

4.25" barrel is IMHO is pushing the design, you 3" guys I will reserve comment but I would suggest a backup piece!

All I can offer in my defense is that this was gifted to me, and at the time I didn’t know better anyhow!
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I carry a P320 in .357SIG and a .357 Mag revolver. I can’t trust this pistol for that purpose.

[Gtek]

45DUDE made a great point. May be a good try for check and with the different approaches of thumb drop verses sling shot release application of stop.

[Geezer in NH]

Personally, I think Kimber should fix it they made it. For the money spent it should work.