I'm a wheel gun guy, just my age I suppose.
A buddy of mine called today for holster recommendations, his neighborhood is getting weird and he has decided to carry while out doing chore around the place. He has a WWII vintage 1911, when I started looking at holsters only one came up for 1911- but a BUNCH for 1911A.
What model is a WWII vintage 1911??????
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It's the same profile. Any 1911 holster will hold it. It just depends on what level of retention he requires.
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For a holster the differences between a 1911 and a 1911A1 have zero effect.
https://sightm1911.com/1911pix/produ...ety%20spur.%20
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Thank you. I carried one in the military for a long time, good ol' flap holster, hammer down. I'm surprised at the "locked and cocked" carry options.
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Currently seeking wood carving tools, wood planes, froes, scorps, spokeshaves... etc....
The A1 model had a few tinkery little changes made at the govt. request, but nothing major like overall size.
The changes were small enough you could probably convert a pre-1924 1911 to the A1 model
with a file and a few parts while sitting at the dinner table.
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Most people consider cocked and locked, or condition 1, as THE CORRECT way to carry the pistol.Originally Posted by beezapilot
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Yes sir. What I have been doing for 30+ years.
The only caveat is as long as the sights are standard gi sights. A gun with bigger target sights might not fit.
I used to carry a 1911 in a Bianchi thumb break holster, condition 1. That was winter wear only, when I could cover it with a jacket. Summer and winter carry now is a J frame .38 S&W, dropped in a hip pocket.
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
Good article! like I said, don't have a 1911, but remember training in the Nav with the combination of safetys. Never thought about the flexibility that provides.
The essence of education is self reliance- T.H. White.
Currently seeking wood carving tools, wood planes, froes, scorps, spokeshaves... etc....
That is the way John Browning designed it to be carried and that is how I carry mine!
One thing to consider is, does he have anything else to carry? I would hate to lose an heirloom or valuable pistol to the The Man during an investigation, possibly forever.
WWI had 1911s, WWII only had 1911A1 issued. At least you can look that up….. Theire is no frame difference between the 11 and 11 A1 the primary differance is the raised and rounded mainspring housing, hammer spur size and sights. The 11A1 with a flat mainspring housing is what many competitors use.
The holsters are exactly the same, they fit the frame.
Suggest your friend carry in a hip holster, on the back of his hip, under a light weight summer jacket. Then practice, practice, practice. Shooting, reloading and drawing.
The 1911 is a born in the hand gun, once you get used to it, it becomes an attachment.
This is one of the 1911s I built for a retiring PJ/CRO. I have been building 1911s since 64.
Last edited by Rapier; 05-16-2022 at 07:20 PM.
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1911’s would have still been issued during WW2. After 1924 the military purchased 1911A1s but the 1911’s in service would remain in service. FWIW along with a few different parts there is a difference in the frame - the cutout behind the trigger is a give away on a 1911A1.
My favorite outside the waistband is the old all leather Safariland. It has an inside thumb break that isolates the hammer from the firing pin. The thumb break releases easily when the thumb enters it yet it’s otherwise very secure. They were made unlined and with elk suede lining. The lining is almost as slick as modern plastics.
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If you go with a thumb snap holster, try it a few times to make sure it doesn’t slip the safety off when you snap it. I have one from a very well known maker that does that.
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Disarming is a mistake free people only get to make once...
I agree with the thumb snap models.
I'm also of the cocked and locked school - from the hammer down school long ago.
It is far safer and more efficient with the hammer cocked over a full chamber with the safety engaged than either presuming safety with a hammer on the firing pin or an empty chamber with a hammer in either position.
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