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Thread: Ouch-Repair suggestions.

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
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    I think its a best-judgment kind of thing. If I didn't have any deburring stuff, just use a pocket knife VERY lightly around the edge

  2. #42
    Boolit Master MOA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfadan View Post
    I think its a best-judgment kind of thing. If I didn't have any deburring stuff, just use a pocket knife VERY lightly around the edge
    I've a couple of deburring tools for brass cases after case trimming.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  3. #43
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
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    Probably stating the obvious, but don't want to chamfer the edges too much or you end up with bell-bottom bullets!

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOA View Post
    It's an rcbs mold. Not aluminum by Lee.
    Well, it'll work the same way, just take longer.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    You fixed it but being a GC mould, I wouldn't worry. You're going to 'replace' the base with a GC anyway. Worst you could get is some flash on the shank.
    Whatever!

  6. #46
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    gwpercle's Avatar
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    Just use a small section of abrasive paper to soften the edge / remove any burrs ... a flat base , sharp edge is preferred . The gas check will go over the base .
    I wouldn't use a chamfering tool or even a pocket knife .
    Run a cotten Q-Tip around the edge ...it will snag any tiny burr's .
    If the Q-Tip doesn't show any burrs ... leave it alone or very lightly smoot the edge with wet-r-dry abrasive paper .
    Gary
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    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  7. #47
    Boolit Master MOA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    Just use a small section of abrasive paper to soften the edge / remove any burrs ... a flat base , sharp edge is preferred . The gas check will go over the base .
    I wouldn't use a chamfering tool or even a pocket knife .
    Run a cotten Q-Tip around the edge ...it will snag any tiny burr's .
    If the Q-Tip doesn't show any burrs ... leave it alone or very lightly smoot the edge with wet-r-dry abrasive paper .
    Gary
    Think I'll get a small diameter wooden dowel and lightly drag it over the sharp edge. That should be the ticket.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  8. #48
    Boolit Master


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    Right on. Milling machine with a fly cutter. 10 minute job once you get it dialed in.

    Question. Have you tried it as is? May be all right./beagle

    Quote Originally Posted by littlejack View Post
    You know anyone with a milling machine? Thats a ten minute job. Any high school with a metal shop maybe? In the past, I have milled projects with a drill press and a cross slide vice. Turned out purty nice too. Necessity is the mother of invention.
    diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....

  9. #49
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    What does the bottom of the sprue plate look like? It could probably use a bit of attention too.

  10. #50
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    405grain's Avatar
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    On my RCBS molds, if the bottom of the sprue plate's worn I'd lap it flat again. But on a Lyman the "mold repair kit" is so inexpensive that I just replace the plate. The repair kit is available from many sources. Here's just one of many examples: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010248998

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check