I think its a best-judgment kind of thing. If I didn't have any deburring stuff, just use a pocket knife VERY lightly around the edge
I think its a best-judgment kind of thing. If I didn't have any deburring stuff, just use a pocket knife VERY lightly around the edge
Probably stating the obvious, but don't want to chamfer the edges too much or you end up with bell-bottom bullets!
You fixed it but being a GC mould, I wouldn't worry. You're going to 'replace' the base with a GC anyway. Worst you could get is some flash on the shank.
Whatever!
Just use a small section of abrasive paper to soften the edge / remove any burrs ... a flat base , sharp edge is preferred . The gas check will go over the base .
I wouldn't use a chamfering tool or even a pocket knife .
Run a cotten Q-Tip around the edge ...it will snag any tiny burr's .
If the Q-Tip doesn't show any burrs ... leave it alone or very lightly smoot the edge with wet-r-dry abrasive paper .
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
What does the bottom of the sprue plate look like? It could probably use a bit of attention too.
On my RCBS molds, if the bottom of the sprue plate's worn I'd lap it flat again. But on a Lyman the "mold repair kit" is so inexpensive that I just replace the plate. The repair kit is available from many sources. Here's just one of many examples: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010248998
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |