I suspect more than one screw has been loosened.
I suspect more than one screw has been loosened.
I think that hand spring on mine was just too thin IDK. Measured thickness around .011 of what was left. New one should be in this week. Think I’ll try some LPS 3, after and during reassembly to maybe stop any future rust issues. It leaves a wax residue after it dries, but looks nasty at first. Y’all think that would be a good idea or no?
Last edited by Hossfly; 05-11-2022 at 09:49 PM. Reason: Spelling
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson
Won't hurt anything, my oil of choice is reclaimed refrigerant compressor oil. Got a gallon of it 10 years ago and still have 3/4 of it. Seems like good stuff.
If that oil is clear, prolly mineral oil. We used a lot of that in Industrial refrigeration. Had gallons of it left when I retired. We used LPS 3 to protect metal from rusting after cleaning, kinda left a waxed feel to the surface. We also used it on the 106 Recoiless Rifles after cleaning, looked bad but kept from rusting.
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson
If that oil is clear, prolly mineral oil. We used a lot of that in Industrial refrigeration. Had gallons of it left when I retired. We used LPS 3 to protect metal from rusting after cleaning, kinda left a waxed feel to the surface. We also used it on the 106 Recoiless Rifles after cleaning, looked bad but kept from rusting.
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson
I like BALLISTOL / Moose Milk
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NRA LIFE Member
USPSA/IPSC
Nice collection of revolvers! Are they Pietta or Uberti?
1860 Army is a Pietta I bought from cabelas several years ago. it had timing issues, the bolt was peening the cylinder notches. I learned how to fix it.
the Remington is a Pietta I got from cabelas a few years ago. it’s perfect
the 1851 London Navy is an Uberti I picked up from Midwayusa last year. it’s by far the best of the bunch
the Colts had reliablility issues until I put in SLIXSHOT nipples
the Rem has been reliable “as is”
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NRA LIFE Member
USPSA/IPSC
I looked up the MSDS sheet on Ballistol several years back and found it was mostly mineral oil with some additives (some obscure alcohol IIRC) to make it partially water soluble.
Hellgate in Orygun
With 16+revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap&ball.
If you do not subscribe to a newspaper you are uninformed. If you do subscribe to a newspaper you are misinformed. Mark Twain
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
Finally got the new hand and spring combo yesterday and reassembled. Took out to home range and fired 24 rounds to get POI set since I filed front sight down 1/4”. Everything working now perfectly. Field stripped and cleaned. Coated all internal springs with LPS 3. Will recheck after about 1 month.
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson
I never clean my internals I just check them. Probably once every 3 or 4 range trips so every 150-200 shots or 4 months. they are never rusty. Or dirty from powder fowling.
What I do is clean everything. Thin coat of bore butter, even on screw threads. Reassemble but leave off brass trigger guard. Pack all openings with a bit of off brand crisco from Wally World. Install trigger guard. Work the action. Leave on half cock, Smear adjust the white crisco so all openings are closed and leave like that in the holster for awhile. The crisco will rubberize kinda and make a seal so the fowling doesn’t get in. Powder sits on top of the crisco and sticks to it. But I’ve never had a hand, trigger or that 2 prong spring rust. Just change out the crisco. The fowling will never get to the innards but the action will stiffen after 4months or so because the grease spoils.
These guns were run on lead, BP, hot water maybe a little soap, and animal fat/ beeswax. At the time they didn’t have all these chemical products. Not saying the don’t work. I just haven’t tried them. All the frontiersmen and soldiers that had cap and ball guns couldn’t afford to let their lively hood rust up in the middle of the plains on a cattle drive because they didn’t have oil or something to clean it with.
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Another trick is to pack the internal cavities with hi temp bearing grease such as Mobil 1. I have done this on all my revolvers and it saves a ton of work. The grease stops the powder fouling from getting into the action plus keeps things lubricated. Clean up is clean the barrel, cylinder and outer frame...done. Once a year detail strip and clean, repack it with grease and shoot for another year.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |