LAGS ~ are you going to bed the entire length of the barrel? Seems that would make for a very solid shooter. I've heard of others doing that and I've thought about doing that, too.
725
LAGS ~ are you going to bed the entire length of the barrel? Seems that would make for a very solid shooter. I've heard of others doing that and I've thought about doing that, too.
725
Ooops. I reread the tread and see that is for intention. good idea.
Full length Bedding on a ML barrel really doesn't increase the accuracy as much as it does for many other rifles.
But it does fit the stock to the barrel pretty snug , and more keeps the lighter stocks from warping since you only have the one wedge holding everything together.
But it also prevents moisture from soaking into the barrel channel of the stock causing warps or twists.
On Most M L's
I do not bed them unless the stock isn't that great of fitting.
But Free Floating the barrel on ML does no good at all.
Except maybe on a Heavy barreled Chunk Gun.
The stock floating around the barrel is not likely to put enough pressure on the barrel to cause inaccuracy.
But a poor fitted stock with the wedge putting down pressure on the barrel can cause accuracy issues.
But bedding can prevent that.
The bedding of this stock not only made it fit better , it is fixing the cracks that were already there when Armoredman bought the rifle.
But couldn't see the cracks under the barrel.
Last edited by LAGS; 05-13-2022 at 05:30 PM.
# 33 & 34 show the bedding operation on the forestock.
I sent Armoredman pictures of how the barrel channel turned out.
It looks great , and is molded around the barrel tennon really well.
Next thing in line is to bed the trigger and make sure it works properly.
Remember,
When he bought the rifle, the trigger was not working.
But today I welded it up and got it working again.
Neat
It is hard to see in picture #39 , but I had to weld up an extension to the front trigger lever.
The picture #15 on page 2 of this thread shows that plate filed off round which caused it not to hit the sear lever any more.
If this does not work , a new trigger lever can be ordered from T O W for around $20.00
See the difference between pictures #37 and #30.
You will see how much it improved the fit of the barrel to the barrel channel at the Tennon / wedge area.
That is a very important point on the stock.
I missed a few pictures from a day or so ago, sorry.
40
41
42
And recently;
43
44
Pictures # 40- 42 show the holes in the trigger base that had the holes drilled off center or too close to the end from what I like.
I will re-drill them correctly or should I say , to my liking.
Picture # 44 shows that the nose cap was not installed correctly.
And it was only attached to the stock with epoxy.
You can see in # 43 how far off the stock was shaped for the nose cap.
I will Re fit the stock and then glass bed the cap to the stock.
Then I will install a screw or two from the inside of the barrel channel thru the stock and tapped into the nose cap.
I will use JB Weld Kwik dry epoxy to bed this part.
The stuff that is black , not the clear stuff which is softer.
Because the bedding won't be exposed , so the color doesn't matter.
That epoxy is stronger than most quick cure epoxies.
And for minor parts like this you don't want to be waiting all day for the epoxy to cure.
I will probably use the JB quick cure on the bedding for the trigger too to reset the areas where the stock was over inletted too deep.
Oh.
For Release Agent on the parts , I use Johnson paste Wax.
Last edited by LAGS; 05-14-2022 at 04:18 PM.
I also see what Bubba tried to do.
He had drilled the stock and the barrel so he could screw on the nose cap thru the nose cap and stock and threaded into the barrel to anchor it.
That was Stupid.
With the front of the stock ,screwed to the barrel , then what is the point of having a Hooked Breech plug and a barrel wedge.
It would make lots more work and tools required to take the barrel off for cleaning.
The hole in the barrel in front of the stock tip is for attaching the barrel under rib.
Those are two of the holes that are all the way thru into the rifling.
Those are the holes that started this thread.
Bubba really did not have a clue..
47
48
49
Nose cap is bedded
How are you fixing the holes that were drilled all the way through the rifling?
Those holes will be filled with 10/32 hard screws threaded in with Red Locktite.
I will take my bore scope and look down the barrel and watch as I thread them in.
I will stop when the screw starts to come into the rifling.
Then I will take the cut off section of the barrel and make up a Lapping tool that is cast out of hard epoxy mixed with a little aluminium oxide powder.
That will be cast onto a fitting that fits a cleaning rod.
Then I will lap the area where the screws come thru to relieve any burrs or Locktite that is in the rifling.
Then I will make a second lapping tool out of just epoxy.
That one I will use the whole length of the bore with polishing compound.
The lapping tool cast in the cut off section will match the remaining barrels rifling , if Indexed so it will fit almost perfectly.
It is a lot of work , but it works.
In the past I have made lapping tools similar to this to lap out barrels on military rifles that I sporterized like sewer pipe Mosin Nagants.
It doesn't refresh your barrel completely.
But it does follow the existing rifling if done carefully.
But it smooths it out enough to be a little more accurate.
Hmmm ?
I wonder if I should leave one of the holes and use it as a Gas Port to make this into a Semi or Full Auto Hawken ?
Just be sure to put in the right size gas bushing, don't want it to fling things into the next county.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |