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Thread: Bubbaed Barrel repair

  1. #101
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    I'm trying to visualize a full auto Hawken...

  2. #102
    Boolit Master
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    You can't miss what they probably looked like.
    They had a Pistol Grip stock shaped like a Kentucky Pistol.

  3. #103
    Boolit Master
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    The one thing that is taking up most of my time in doing this project is making the Jigs and tools to do the repairs.
    Like clamps and jigs to hold the lock to fill in the holes from the previously drilled holes in the lock from the mis laid out lock mounting screws.
    Or the lapping tools to fix the barrel in a first class manor.
    Planning out and making the tools to Correct issues is as important as to doing the correction .
    You don't want to try to fix something , and damage or mark up your parts.

  4. #104
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    On the other hand you will have all those tools available the next time Bubba sends something your way.

  5. #105
    Boolit Master
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    It depends on what tools or jigs that I have to make.
    The tools are kind of specialized to certain brands or models.
    And I don't always work on that model with a lot of these issues.
    And this gun is a Lefty.
    I have never had one like this in left hand.

  6. #106
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    And more pics,

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  7. #107
    Boolit Master
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    The trigger is bedded and re inletted.
    I also made the Lapping Slug to fix the barrel.
    Look how good that rifling is.
    This gun was worth rebuilding for sure.

  8. #108
    Boolit Master
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    Pictures #57& 58 were made in the cut off section of the barrel.
    All I did was put a patch lubed with Johnson Paste Wax on a cleaning jag that fits the bore.
    Then coated the inside if the bore several times.
    Then ran the cleaning rod and jag with the Lubed patch into one end of the barrel.
    I stopped about 2" from the other end of the barrel.
    Then that last 2" of bore was filled with JB Kwik Weld epoxy.
    Make sure that you don't trap any air bubbles in the epoxy.
    This epoxy Sets in about 5 minutes.
    But let it cure for about 5 hours.
    Then you pound the slug out with the ramrod and jag that is already left in the bore.
    It does take a little effort to break the slug loose the first time.
    If it won't break free , then warm up the barrel a bit to break it loose , or Freeze the barrel.
    Now use a Large diameter cleaning rod.
    Not some skinny 22 cal aluminium rod , or it will bend.
    There is a way you can make up a jig to do one of these from just the muzzle end if you can't or don't want to pull out the bore plug.
    I will drill a hole thru the slug and mount it on a rod with a thru screw so it can be used like a cleaning rod to polish out the bore.
    One thing to watch for is Indexing of the slug to the bore.
    Keep the rifling lined up to the groove that it was cast in.
    I just mark the end of the barrel and the end of one end of the slug to match up.
    Last edited by LAGS; 05-16-2022 at 07:46 PM.

  9. #109
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Learning tons of stuff.

  10. #110
    Boolit Master
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    One thing I should mention ,
    I Do Not use the JB steel weld or the Gorilla Weld.
    The Gorilla Weld eats thru the release agent.
    So your slug sticks in the bore.
    If you guys want to try something like this , I would recommend you play with the epoxy and release agent on a piece of scrap steel.
    It is better that you know how your material is going to work before you start working on your final parts.

  11. #111
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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  12. #112
    Boolit Master
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    These are pictures from inside of the barrel.
    I was able to use a Flat headded screw , screwed in tight to the outside of the barrel.
    I then measure the screw and remove it so I could file off any excess screw that protruded into the bore.
    When Very Close , I then used that lapping tool that I made to lap off any burs and get it to fit as close as I could to the rifling.
    It ain't perfect , but is a whole lot better than the set screws that bubba use.
    There is less than .002" depression from the bottom of the grooves on my plugs.
    Those left a void in the barrel at each screw that collected lots of dirt.
    That void was over 1/8" deep on the barrel when I got it.
    If Bubba would have drilled and tapped the barrel at true 90° to the bore , then I could have fitted the plugs so they could be lapped closer to the bore.
    Then the only marks that would be left in the barrel would be the minor chips around the drilled and tapped hole.
    The flat head screw was countersunk a few thousand into the outside of the barrel.
    That way , when it is tightened in with red locktite , the head can be filed off flush with the barrel outside.
    Then the screw retains a little flair to prevent it from ever moving down deeper into the bore.
    Last edited by LAGS; 05-19-2022 at 01:19 AM.

  13. #113
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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  14. #114
    Boolit Master
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    These are the types of screws that I used.
    As you can see in pic #63 , there is a partial countersink for the base of the screw head to bottom out into.
    Then the remaining screw head will be filed flat to the outside of the barrel.
    Last edited by LAGS; 05-18-2022 at 11:44 PM.

  15. #115
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    And now, for more.

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  16. #116
    Boolit Master
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    Pic #65 & 66 show how the thru drilled holes were plugged with the under barrel rib mounting screws looked from inside the bore when I received the rifle from Armoredman.
    There was about 1/8" recess inside the barrel at three different spots.
    Actually .140" to be exact.
    Those depressions would probably collect lots of fouling every time the gun was fired.
    Then these depressions would be hard to clean out.
    Picture #67 shows the new screws that I set up in two of the holes in the barrel.
    There is less than .001" depression now inside the bore.
    There is way less chance of it collection crud , and can be cleaned out much easier.
    Pics #68 & 69 show the flat head screws that I used to fill the holes.
    Then the heads of the screws were filed off so they didn't cause problems remounting the barrel under rib.
    This also prevents someone from removing the screws , or the screws ever screwing down deeper into the bore.
    I will drill new holes to re mount the barrel under rib and set them up properly as not to be drilled all the way into the bore.
    This should be all the work related to the title of the thread about repairing a Bubba'ed issue inside the barrel.
    I think I may start another thread on the repairs to the stock and other parts of this rifle.
    Some of those items were covered already in this thread.
    But by the title of the thread , some people would not look at it.
    But not too many of you will be doing this kind of work on repairing a barrel issue.
    So the new thread will be a quicker reference to the work most of you will be looking to do.
    And most of the Muzzleloading Refurbishment involves the Stock Issues.
    It is also more of things that most of you can do yourself.
    There is one more thing I will do with the barrel related to this thread.
    I am going to modify my test stand for Proof Testing my barrels.
    I have to switch it to fit a Left Hand Lock.
    I want to proof test this barrel with double maximum load.
    Not because I don't trust my work.
    But this barrel was Bubba'ed , and I want proof that it is truly safe.
    I had also Proof Tested the barrel on the Renagade that I sold to Armoredman so I was sure there were no issues even though it has a great bore.
    Last edited by LAGS; 05-19-2022 at 07:10 PM.

  17. #117
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Epic.

  18. #118
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  19. #119
    Boolit Master
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    This is pictures of how I fixed the hole in the stock for the barrel wedge.
    The wedge would not go thru the stock , plus was too short.
    The barrel was also inletted to deep into the stock.
    So when the repairs on the stock were finished and I bedded the barrel channel , the wedge had to be relocated.
    I filled the old holes with Maple.
    Then redrilled the hole to a point where it worked properly.
    I measured the lay out with a tool I made from a square with a pin glued to the tip to reach what I wanted to measure.
    The the holes were redrilled on my drill press using a locating pin lined up with the drill bit to assure the hole went thru the stock level and in a straight line.
    More pictures of my set up and how far off the original holes were compared to now.
    These pictures are from one side of the stock.
    You will see how far off the other side is too.
    Last edited by LAGS; 05-20-2022 at 06:41 PM.

  20. #120
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Wow - this really is a major job. Well done.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check