Blue Wonder

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Has anyone used this product to blue an entire firearm? How did it turn out? Would you use it again? Any techniques or tricks I should know before trying it?

I have a nice Win. Mod. 37 12 Ga. shotgun that is all polished out and ready for a finish. I was going to send it off for a hot blue, but decided to do it myself. I looked at all the Brownell's offerings a couple of nights ago, and the Blue Wonder seemed promising. I think it might be preferable to a paint job.

DG

[Texas by God]

I checked it out just now and it looks worth a try. Be the pioneer, Craig!

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Thanks. Guess I'll order it today. Will try to remember to do before/after photos.

DG

[deltaenterprizes]

Cold blue is like painting the firearm!
There is no chemical reaction like hot bluing.
Hot blue is a controlled rusting process.
Regular rust is FeO3 blued steel is FeO4!
I read a couple of reviews and it is different than regular cold blue!
It sounds interesting and I look forward to your results!
I have the chemicals to make a batch of hot bluing salts but only have one tank and would like a tank for hot water.
Handguns take smaller tanks so they are easier and I only have one rifle to do, so this sounds interesting for me!

[Geezer in NH]

Brownell's Oxpho-Blue. or get it hot blued

[HWooldridge]

Oxpho works well on matte finishes. I’ve sandblasted many items then dipped them in Oxpho - yields a deep black unless you polish with steel wool, then you’ll get more of a dark blue.

[Rich/WIS]

Brownells used to sell something called T-4 that was a cold blue that gave good results for touch ups, although it took several applications. Don't see it on their site anymore. Perhaps Blue Wonder is the replacement.

[oldhenry]

I was facing the same decision a few months back. Years ago I had used Oxpho-blue on a 1911 & an Ithaca #37. As others have said: It did OK on the matte top surface of each, but the polished areas were not so good.

My recent decision was to go with Laurel Mountain Forge "brown & degreaser". Their instructions are excellent & you can make a hot water trough from PVC. The water (distilled) was heated on my wife's stove & when boiled was poured on the bbl/action in the trough. The boiling water Transformed the Fe-3 (brown) to a deep blue/black (FE-4).

Repeat the process after carding off the surface rust with 0000 steel wool & repeat until you're satisfied with the depth of the blue/black.

With the help of others on this forum the blue looks fantastic & will be more durable than cold blue.

I have a Remington 521T prepped & Mossberg 142-A almost fully prepped that will go through the process soon.

We have several forum members that are very knowledgeable on this subject & I'm sure they'll guide you through the process.

Good luck.
Henry

The thread on how I was guided through the process by forum members is on page #5 of this section entitled "Rust Blueing Problem". That thread has a wealth of information.

[RustyReel]

I was facing the same decision a few months back. Years ago I had used Oxpho-blue on a 1911 & an Ithaca #37. As others have said: It did OK on the matte top surface of each, but the polished areas were not so good.

My recent decision was to go with Laurel Mountain Forge "brown & degreaser". Their instructions are excellent & you can make a hot water trough from PVC. The water (distilled) was heated on my wife's stove & when boiled was poured on the bbl/action in the trough. The boiling water Transformed the Fe-3 (brown) to a deep blue/black (FE-4).

Repeat the process after carding off the surface rust with 0000 steel wool & repeat until you're satisfied with the depth of the blue/black.

With the help of others on this forum the blue looks fantastic & will be more durable than cold blue.

I have a Remington 521T prepped & Mossberg 142-A almost fully prepped that will go through the process soon.

We have several forum members that are very knowledgeable on this subject & I'm sure they'll guide you through the process.

Good luck.
Henry

The thread on how I was guided through the process by forum members is on page #5 of this section entitled "Rust Blueing Problem". That thread has a wealth of information.

I did the same thing using Brownells Classic Rust Blue. I didn't get the dark factory type results but I have been told I didn't do enough coats. I also used Birchwood Casey Plum Brown on a muzzleloader that worked very well and was easy to use. Don't know about the durability of the brown as I only used the rifle for about a year.

[jonp]

I was facing the same decision a few months back. Years ago I had used Oxpho-blue on a 1911 & an Ithaca #37. As others have said: It did OK on the matte top surface of each, but the polished areas were not so good.

My recent decision was to go with Laurel Mountain Forge "brown & degreaser". Their instructions are excellent & you can make a hot water trough from PVC. The water (distilled) was heated on my wife's stove & when boiled was poured on the bbl/action in the trough. The boiling water Transformed the Fe-3 (brown) to a deep blue/black (FE-4).

Repeat the process after carding off the surface rust with 0000 steel wool & repeat until you're satisfied with the depth of the blue/black.

With the help of others on this forum the blue looks fantastic & will be more durable than cold blue.

I have a Remington 521T prepped & Mossberg 142-A almost fully prepped that will go through the process soon.

We have several forum members that are very knowledgeable on this subject & I'm sure they'll guide you through the process.

Good luck.
Henry

The thread on how I was guided through the process by forum members is on page #5 of this section entitled "Rust Blueing Problem". That thread has a wealth of information.

Thanks. I have a corncob 12g sitting in the corner i have been eyeing as a summer project

[LAGS]

That process is a version of slow rust bluing.
And yes it is Durable and looks good