how can I get my brass- thimbles- trigger guard, etc. on my guns to turn black or at least to tarnish? toot.
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how can I get my brass- thimbles- trigger guard, etc. on my guns to turn black or at least to tarnish? toot.
They're probably coated in lacquer which will need to be removed first. Then you will need something like Birchwood Casey Brass Black Metal Finish. Just run "Patina for brass" on Amazon.
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
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For an instant change, defarb the brass with some lacquer thinner, then after it evaporates apply cold blue solution, a little at a time, until the desired color is reached.
Last edited by pietro; 04-27-2022 at 12:04 PM.
Now I lay me down to sleep
A gun beside me is what I keep
If I awake, and you're inside
The coroner's van is your next ride
Remove the protective stuff, swab your barrel as you shoot, and rub the brass with the patch. Most authentic.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
I second this. What I always did to blacken. No need to get fancy.Originally Posted by waksupi
swamp
There is no problem so great, that it cannot be solved by the proper application of high explosives.
Can brass be powder coated?
I have never Powder coated brass, but I don't see why you can't.
I powdercoat lead Boolits.
I have worked on a couple of rifles , that they did the brass in Duracoat or Ceracoat.
They looked great , but not period correct.
But if that doesn't matter to you , then it is a pretty durable to finish the brass.
I antique brass with wet Pyrodex fouling. I've yet to find another material so readily capable. I burn small piles on a plate, collect the fouling and add water, paint it on, use heavy canvas and burlap fabric to buff and adjust colors. Steel wool on occasion. It'll get your brass looking ancient and since you're aging muzzle loader hardware the rest can be shot.
Real BP fouling is substantially slower at this process. I don't use it if I'm in any sort of hurry.
Ammonia.
“It is not enough that we do our best; sometimes we must do what is required.”
― Winston S. Churchill
Sasquatch-1, thank you. I will do that. toot.
Swamp. that is the best thing that I have ever heard of. thank's toot.
why would any one want to powder coat brass?? what would be the purpose?
yes PYRODEX, is referred to as BAD JU-JU. I can see why it would work with it's acidic qualities. thank's for all of the help on my question, toot.
After reviewing what others have said, I would just remove any sealant on the brass and let nature take it's course. The nose caps on my long rifles and pistols gets dark fairly quickly without removing the lacquer. The thimbles on the other hand may take some convincing.
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
Same process here.
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Agree with the above post a fouling covered patch will tarnish up brass in short order
If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!
I used ammonia fuming on one gun. The color seemed strange to me, may have just been the particular alloy. I polished it all off, and went back to the fouled patch patina.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Jax brass brown... Kibler sells it. Then use a red or green scotch bright pad to ease it back to the desired patina.
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| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
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| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
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