Advice needed on removing lead from barrel

[mtgrs737]

Gentlemen,

I was working on a AR-15 223 Wylde barrel that a 300 blackout round had been mistakenly fired in. The case head separated and the rest of the case was stuck hard in the chamber. I tried many things to remove the case but none of the usual tricks worked. Finally I plugged the barrel just ahead of the chamber with paper and poured some molten lead into the chamber from the back of the barrel. However I over filled it and got lead up in the locking lug area. So not wanting to damage this area in the barrel lug area I made a chisel out of brass rod and chiseled enough of the lead out that I could ram out the broken case and the lead in it with a brass rod from the front of the barrel. I then used a scratch awl to pick/pry out a lot of the lead in the locking lug area but not all of it is easy to get to so some still remains. My question is: has anyone removed this type of lead from a barrel using heat or something to desolve or loosen the lead so it can be removed without getting too rough with it? If so I would appreciate hearing from you.

mtgrs737

[Winger Ed.]

Heat is a last resort.

If you got most with an awl, you can probably get the rest with one of those bent and angled dental picks.
They're thinner than a pencil, go down to a real small wire looking point, and are about 8" long.
I've seen them at drug stores and even good/large hardware stores.

[Remiel]

Heat is a last resort.

If you got most with an awl, you can probably get the rest with one of those bent and angled dental picks.
They're thinner than a pencil, go down to a real small wire looking point, and are about 8" long.
I've seen them at drug stores and even good/large hardware stores.

And you can tweak them to fit where you need them, ive used them to remove hard carbon from both tight and difficult parts.

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[414gates]

50% white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide dissolves lead from barrels, should work if you can block the muzzle and fill the barrel, let it stand for a while.

I did this on an old model 70 that leaded badly due to pitting. You'll get bubbles coming off, then you know it's working.

I was also careful to wipe off any that spilled onto the blueing, it is said vinegar strips blueing.

[john.k]

If its pure lead,it will melt at 320C......this is hot enough to soften hardening applied to steel,but will not make the gun dangerous......springs can tolerate 320C ,as this is tempering heat for steel springs........it was once common to melt out stuck bullets from 22 barrels by sticking them in the kitchen wood stove.

[Moleman-]

If it were me, I'd not trust that barrel extension and bolt and would opt to replace them. They're not timed, so for a no lathe/reamer option you'll need access to a bunch of extensions to find one that'll line up with your gas port.

[pietro]

.

IME, a dental pick, bent as described, is the Gold Standard as the first choice for withdrawing cartridge cases, that have lost their head, from the chamber.

[414gates]

I was at a long range shoot last month. There was a 375 Cheytac with ammo trouble, case head seperations, most likely the shoulders were too far back.

On the first occurrence, the shooter was visibly rattled. I told him to wait till I got my cleaning kit, but he went off to find something to get the case out. He and I got back to the line at the same time. I arrived with a short length of cleaning rod, an old Parker Hale 375 jag, and a short wrap of cleaning cloth. He arrived with a bent piece of wire.

I wrapped the jag for him, and told him to insert it from the rear to just exit the case mouth, and pull out. He didn't believe me, but he tried it, and the broken part of the case just slid out.

He used my jag puller several more times during the match. He kept asking where I bought the tool, so he could buy one as well. I explained what he was using, and gave him one of my old fashioned cleaning jags to use on his cleaning rod. He had never seen a jag like mine, his were the push through type with the pin on the end for pushing patches. I think that jag may have been older than he was.

[mtgrs737]

OK guys, this is a Wilson Bull barrel in stainless steel with a carbon steel extension. I think I will try the vinegar and Hydrogen peroxide first then use a dental pick to remove the rest of the lead. How long should I soak it? I can stand the barrel up in a short cup of the mixture and change it out every so often if needed. Will this mixture damage the metal in any way?

[Buzz Krumhunger]

Seems like I’ve read warnings about using peroxide&vinegar on stainless.


Also, the resulting solution of dissolved lead, peroxide and vinegar is extremely poisonous and can be absorbed through the skin. Google “lead acetate”

[LAGS]

I haven't heard of anything about the peroxide / vinegar hurting stainless steel.
But then , I don't work with stainless steel barrels much.
But the vinegar / peroxide is what I use to strip Bluing and Rust from the guns that I refinish.
Straight vinegar works good if you let it sit overnight.
But adding the peroxide speeds things up.

[414gates]

How long should I soak it?

I worked in 30 minute intervals, refreshing the liquid, but I had bad leading. Start with 15 minutes, see what it looks like, then adjust the period.

My barrel is not stainless.

[poppy42]

50% white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide dissolves lead from barrels, should work if you can block the muzzle and fill the barrel, let it stand for a while.

I did this on an old model 70 that leaded badly due to pitting. You'll get bubbles coming off, then you know it's working.

I was also careful to wipe off any that spilled onto the blueing, it is said vinegar strips blueing.

+1 on this! I dropped a cast boolet in the solution and let it sit for a day. I could not find the bullet after 24 hours! Solution is toxic so do it in a well ventilated area and dispose of properly.

[popper]

50% white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide dissolves lead from barrels - really hard on regular steel, not stainless. 10 min max. It is then very toxic - use gloves and dispose of fluid in the grass. I'd pick what you can and shoot it. Lead is a good lubricant. Yup, case HS on the extractor and wham.

[JimB..]

I wouldn’t use the dip for this, but if you do, the best way to dispose of the toxic solution afterward is to allow the liquid to evaporate, or boil off gently, outdoors and then toss the container in the trash. Some towns have a place to drop toxic waste, that’s a better choice but not available to all.

[elmacgyver0]

The locking lug area as you call it unscrews from the barrel.
Just buy a new one and replace it, they are pretty cheap.

[Texas by God]

What about the stuck bullet in the barrel?

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[elmacgyver0]

What about the stuck bullet in the barrel?

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If you can't get it out replace the whole barrel assembly.
This stuff is pretty cheap anymore.
Anyone asking these kind of questions should probably replace the whole upper.
I don't mean to be demeaning or anything, but if you don't know what you are doing is it worth hurting yourself?
Whatever you do just be safe.
The barrel may have already been stressed beyond safe use.
How do you know?

[JimB..]

The locking lug area as you call it unscrews from the barrel.
Just buy a new one and replace it, they are pretty cheap.

Lol, you’ve just turned an hour with a pick into 6 hours cussing about torque specs and headspacing.

[Moleman-]

If you can't get it out replace the whole barrel assembly.
This stuff is pretty cheap anymore.
Anyone asking these kind of questions should probably replace the whole upper.
I don't mean to be demeaning or anything, but if you don't know what you are doing is it worth hurting yourself?
Whatever you do just be safe.
The barrel may have already been stressed beyond safe use.
How do you know?

Right there with you. I do not have a 300blk at my house for just this reason. Plenty of pictures online of guys that have done this and their ar15 came apart often violently.