New way to crush a 223 case with Dillon resizing die

[BobbyJ]

Thought I would share a screw up with you. Wondering if anyone else has done this with a resizing die. It was not in any of the directions or videos on what happens if the primer punch stem is a little too high. Had it happen twice, once I had the stem too far up so it would not stick so far out of the bottom of the die, trying to avoid any snapped primer pins.
and one other today the cent die backed out (not locked well).

Basically on the down stroke it will feel like maybe you don't have enough lube on the round, but its the same even if you do. If the neck sizing ball is up too high near where the neck of the sizing die is it will bind get tight. Too high would be if the pin is sticking out of the bottom of the die by 1/8" It will bind and put much more pressure on the downstroke, some rounds might survive it but some will buckle.

Screwing the center die down all the way till it hits that cotter pin clip seems like too much pin is sticking out the bottom of the die but the amount of pressure on the down stroke is reduced by a ton.

Anyone ever have this happen?
Here is a picture that attempts to explain what I think caused the crush.

[jmorris]

Pistol reloaders don’t have the problem because most decapping pins do not have expanders on them like rifle dies do.

But yes, if you are trying to size the case to a smaller OD with the die at the same time as you are trying to expand the ID, you are going to have problems. Doesn’t matter who made the die.

[414gates]

Your expander ball is too close to the neck sizing area, so when the case mouth comes around the ball, it's too wide to enter the neck sizing area.

With the expander ball lower down, it gives the case neck enough space to clear the expander ball and enter the neck area as intended.

Read the instructions on a Forster sizing die, the same rules apply.

[Half Dog]

Close enough. It will fireform.

[FishHunter357]

Your expander ball is too close to the neck sizing area, so when the case mouth comes around the ball, it's too wide to enter the neck sizing area.

With the expander ball lower down, it gives the case neck enough space to clear the expander ball and enter the neck area as intended.

Read the instructions on a Forster sizing die, the same rules apply.

This is exactly what I was going to respond. I used a 30-06 die that was set up like this when I got it and kept getting cases stuck, ripping the rim or neck off, or stretching the neck longer. I didn't run a lot of cases through, all of those scenarios happened across the few different shells I ran through it. Hopefully there's a balance between making your special 5.56x40 brass and saving the decapping pins.

[BobbyJ]

Your expander ball is too close to the neck sizing area, so when the case mouth comes around the ball, it's too wide to enter the neck sizing area.

With the expanded ball lower down, it gives the case neck enough space to clear the expander ball and enter the neck area as intended.

Read the instructions on a Forster sizing die, the same rules apply.

Yea that is what I figured out but the strange part was it was not in the manuals for Dillon not even a discussion on it. And not seen on video on you tube showing it.

Thats why I said "new way to crush cases". Good to know Forster dies talks about it. Even a "Make sure the expander ball is low or you can crush cases or get stuck cases"
Right out of the Dillon manual
"Stuck cases are due to either inadequate case lubrication or case separation – nothing else"

Well I found something else

[BobbyJ]

Pistol reloaders don’t have the problem because most decapping pins do not have expanders on them like rifle dies do.

But yes, if you are trying to size the case to a smaller OD with the die at the same time as you are trying to expand the ID, you are going to have problems. Doesn’t matter who made the die.

Agree, just you cant see the location of expander without that cut-way and the decap pin sticks way out the bottom. The difference between having the pin too far out (where it can snap off easier) and having it too far recessed is not that much, But its best to have the de-capping pin low (sticking out more) to ensure the ball clears the neck before any downsizing of the neck occurs.
I will say the Dillon decap pins are aligned better and stronger than my Hornady decapper. Seem to be centered better, not broke one yet.