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Thread: How much lanolin do I add to alcohol to make case luibe?

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
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    Jun 2013
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    Yes,clean before tumbling. I have done the black mess before. You will now have to wash all your pins, tumbler and brass in hot soapy water to get most of that slop off. I have a container of Shellite ( which you call Coleman fuel) and throw all the cases in it and give a swirl prior to tumbling. That will get most of the lanolin off before tumbling. When tumbling the dish washing detergent will get the rest off. If not enough dish soap it will just go black. When you open your tumbler after a couple of hours, there should be some bubbles still. If not there was still to much lanolin on the cases and the lube coats everything and not held in suspension.
    The bloke out in the field is always right until proven otherwise.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
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    I wash my pins with Simple Green when needed,never tumble cases for more than 2 hours myself. I throw my sized cases in the tumbler right after sizing combo of Dawn and Lemonini shine cases come out sparkly clean.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master


    David2011's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewbaby View Post
    Way too much lemishine and too long…just add a pinch and work up if needed. The acid in lemishine leaches out the zinc in the brass so don’t over do it.
    Sorry; I have to disagree with everything but “too long.” Zinc is only leeched out where the brass is corroded in which case it was already lost from the cartridge alloy. If it goes deep enough to feel then the cartridge is weakened and I wouldn’t use it. After processing 3000 milsurp 5.56 cases that were weathered to a dark brown, I scrapped exactly two of them because of deep corrosion.

    The last time I treated brass with citric acid I measured 1-1/2 tablespoons of pure citric acid and 1/2 teaspoon of Lemi-shine into 1-1/2 gallons of water. I used that much because my ultrasonic cleaner requires 1.5-1.6 gallons. I treated the brass at 140 degrees F until bright; just 2-4 minutes. Lemi-shine is mostly citric acid so I used far more total citric acid than your recommendation.

    Before I started heating the solution I the brass had to soak for hours. Never any leeching of good brass. Lost zinc shows as pink areas. It usually polishes off in the vibratory polisher using fine corn cob and NuFinish. It usually cannot be found after polishing. If it can, scrap the piece.

    I’ve only cleaned brass after using lanolin based lube by dry polishing. It looks great and doesn’t get my hands dirty.
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  4. #44
    Boolit Master


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    Lanolin mixed in alcohol tastes sheep dip.

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master

    imashooter2's Avatar
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    A bottle of RCBS case lube in a quart of 90% Isopropyl is what I use. Still on the first quart…
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  6. #46
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by slim1836 View Post
    One ounce of liquid lanolin per 12 ounces of Isoheat is what I've used with great results.

    Slim
    This is what I used, Lanolin from Amazon came in a 2oz bottle, 2 bottles of ISOHeat and done, pleny for a really long time, been using this for a couple years now, great results.
    "People in Arizona carry guns," said Detective David Ramer, a Chandler police spokesman. You better be careful about who you are picking on...

  7. #47
    Boolit Buddy braddock's Avatar
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    Don't overthink it, I bought lanolin and isopropynol from amazon about 4 years ago I have used about a third of it. I just mixed all of both components together.
    TBH I don't use it often as I just neck size my cases hence don't need any lub at all.
    BUT I can't get a neck sizer here in the UK for a 30/30 (LEE one won't buy anything else) so I backed off my 30/30 full length die and adjusted it until the neck was formed to within a 1/32" of the start of the bottle neck.
    To lub them I fill a plastic cap about 1/4" deep with the mixture, dip the case necks into it, flick them dry as I put them into the press and then store them neck down on my loading tray. A quick wipe with a tissue next day gets the dry lanolin off and they're good to go, I don't clean inside the necks and, fwiw, I never clean primer pockets and I can't be arsed to tumble clean the cases - works for me. Cases and loads feed fine thru my pre 64 md 94 so I'm happy.
    I've had zero problems and two things have happened, I've saved myself the cost of a neck die and, more important, neck tension should be 100% uniform this way as the decapping pin does its job the same every time as opposed to perhaps different pressure on each batch thru a neck die. Not very well explained but if you neck size, you'll know what I mean.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by braddock; 01-10-2023 at 08:30 AM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check