12.7x44R Swede Rolling Block

[lar45]

Well, the wonderful brown truck delivered my new toy yesterday.
It's a Carl Gustaf Rolling Block in 12.7x44R.
I'm wondering what kind of wood they used in these rifles?


The pattern on the wood reminds me of a Muzzle loader scratch build show I watched awhile back where they used iron filings and linseed oil to coat the stock, then put a hot iron next to the wood to burn a pattern into it.

Anybody know what the proof marks are on it?










I'll try to get some good pics of the entire rifle tomorrow.
Hopefully get to test fire it tomorrow also if it doesn't rain the whole day.

[samari46]

Crown over C would be for Swedish rolling blocks and the various initials would be for the inspectors. I have one with the same markings as made in 1875 but was reworked in 1892 for the 8x58 cartridge. Think they used either birch or beech for the wood. Looks like yours has been refinished. Mine does not have the sheen on the wood. Frank

[pworley1]

Congratulations on your addition to the collection. Enjoy.

[sharps4590]

Good for you!! That's a cartridge I've wanted to play with for quite a while.

Kudo's to your picture taking ability. Mine is amazingly consistent, it sucks.

[lar45]

[lar45]

[lar45]

Sorry, the pictures aren't as learning this morning.

[MOA]

Easiest way to do brass if you can find is 50 Alaskan.
Just trim to 44mm. An keep trimming until it chambers easily

[lar45]

Got a short break in the rain today and shot it 10 times.
50 AK brass cut to 1.725", 26gn of IMR 4198 and a .501-420 from Hunter's Supply.
25 yards just to get on target.



The breach block has a huge firing pin that hits off center.
Would a breach block from a no.5 fit?
Or is this a gunsmith job?

[elk hunter]

Looks like the block was originally rimfire. If it were me I'd thread and plug the hole relocate the firing pin hole and make a new pin.

[lar45]

Maybe the 50 AK brass is undersized and was sitting on the bottom of the chamber, so the firing pin hit high?
Tomorrow, I'll try wrapping tape around the base until it's snug and shoot it again.

[marlinman93]

Maybe the 50 AK brass is undersized and was sitting on the bottom of the chamber, so the firing pin hit high?
Tomorrow, I'll try wrapping tape around the base until it's snug and shoot it again.

I doubt it's an off centered case. As you can see from the breech block, these were originally a rimfire cartridge, and the lower RF hole was plugged, and a new hole was drilled to convert it to CF. It's likely that it may have been done by an amateur gunsmith, and he got the hole off center. Most gunsmiths would not only get it centered, but would also have not made the hole and firing pin tip that large.
The proper fix is to plug the hole and drill it smaller diameter like a modern firing pin should be. Then make up a new pin fitted to the smaller size hole. It will not only work better, but a small firing pin is much safer also.

[lar45]

My next question is about the trigger.
The trigger pull is very heavy. I haven't measured it, but I'd guess 10#ish.
Is there anything I should be on the lookout for?

[lar45]

I got out the trigger gauge and tried to measure it. Mine only goes to 6#, I pulled it to the stops and the trigger still didn't break.

[marlinman93]

My next question is about the trigger.
The trigger pull is very heavy. I haven't measured it, but I'd guess 10#ish.
Is there anything I should be on the lookout for?

If you go to Wommack's Rolling Block Parts Ken sells a piano wire trigger return spring that will usually drop the trigger weight down to under 5 lbs. Or buy some .045" piano wire and bend one up yourself.
I make my own and put them in every military Rolling Block action I use for a rifle build. Some are down as low as 2 lbs. after cleaning, installing the piano wire spring, and oiling things up with Kroil.
Military rifles have very heavy return springs so novice soldiers wont accidentally trip the triggers.

[Whole Bunches]

Mine also hits primer off center.

[Dutchman]

The crown/C is for the Carl Gustaf factory. The stock is arctic birch.

This shows the piano wire spring. It works very nicely to reduce trigger pull.



But don't stop there. You can also polish the mainspring on an oil stone. Make sure to polish the end of the spring where it contacts with the crotch of the hammer. I use Tetra-lube there.



This is what the mainspring looked like before. And yes, polishing the spring improves the characteristics.



I did a complete re-hab of my Carl Gustaf m/1867 sporter to include removing the barrel and inspecting everything. These are the "before" pictures.



I'm still working on mine. I shortened the barrel a couple inches. Cut new dovetail for a Marble's ivory bead front sight. Still working on a rear sight. Browned the barrel with Birchwood-Casey Plum Brown. Polished hammer and breechblock by hand using Buck Arkansas stone then crocus cloth & WD40.

This rifle is/was a Model 1867-74. The difference being mostly the buttstock has a high comb design as opposed to the original Remington 1867 and Swedish 1867. Much better for shooting.





I made a couple cheater pins for working on the RB.

[corbinace]

Thank you for the tutorial and the ideas Dutchman.

[lar45]

Thank you very much for the pics, that helps a lot. I should have an assortment of spring wire around somewhere.

[lar45]

I'm trying some Lee 50-360 Minnie's and some round ball gallery loads today. I powder coated them to try and get closer to the .505" groove diameter.