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Thread: hot plate recommendations

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    hot plate recommendations

    How useful are hot plates to you? Which would you choose and which to avoid?

    I am looking for one that can be used to melt range scrap with than use my lead pot.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Hot plates are typically just used to pre heat moulds. Unless you introduced additional heat from a propane torch to get things melting on the top it would take awhile if ever to melt. I recommend using a propane burner.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I use a hot plate to prewarm my molds. I like the open coil type and I put a piece of 1/8th thick plate over the coils. The cheap ones from Walmart seem to work fine. I would not expect one to work well at melting lead. Although they will there are better methods.
    Last edited by lightman; 04-19-2022 at 07:24 PM.

  4. #4
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    I have new MP molds and am concerned that they will be more finicky than my Lee molds. In the past, I'd just insert a corner of my mold into the molten lead and also use my propane torch to speed things up. If this is adequate, I could wait on buying a hot plate.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Drew P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJung View Post
    I have new MP molds and am concerned that they will be more finicky than my Lee molds. In the past, I'd just insert a corner of my mold into the molten lead and also use my propane torch to speed things up. If this is adequate, I could wait on buying a hot plate.
    That is still adequate but I like a hot plate. I’m curious why some like the coil kind instead of the solid kind. I have a mini one, I think it’s only 500w. Works great, and you van preheat ingots too which helps a lot.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Randy Bohannon's Avatar
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    I use the coil type hot plate with a metal 2 gang electrical box and a blank cover. Knock out two of the openings, cut the web of metal that joins them to make a opening for the mould handles. Nice even pre heating the mould, acts like a oven. I start the heating when I start the pot and two come together at the same time and get good bullets right from the start.

  7. #7
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    Get a turkey frier with the red regulator. You'll be happier.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I never thought about using a hot plate with this hobby. Had one for years out in the storage shop, picked out of an old horse trailer that had a living quarter. Got into boolit casting, read on here about using them for mold and ingot heating for adding to the pot.

    Now use it for a lot of different things, like melting and mixing boolit lube, pre heating molds to 400’. It will melt ingot lead to point of liquid, so you have to watch that.

    They really don’t cost that much for what they do, if I didn’t know how valuable an appliance it was, I prolly wouldn’t buy one, but knowing now, would buy one. Use it a lot, and at .10 cents a KWH doesn’t cost much to run.

    Have an old piece of 1/2” aluminum plate on top of coils to distribute head so never had any kind of warping of a mold etc. have read about using old saw blade to do the same thing. But thats just what I had.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I have that I bought at the local hardware/general store. Paid around $20 if I remember right. An 8" cast iron skillet set on top does an excellent job of melting range scrap, and can easily be picked up for pouring the lead into ingot molds.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Use mine for pre-heating molds and ingots. Mine was Oster from Walmart, solid surface type and was about $20 IIRC. Worth every penny for what it is used for. Not sure the Wattage but amp draw is low, can plugh it and the Lee 4-20 pot into the same 20 Amp outlet and not trip the breaker.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Is there an advantage of the 1000w vs. 1500w hot plates?

  12. #12
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    I used one for years. Found one in My Grandmothers stuff when she passed, it was a whole lot better then the one I had from a garage sale. I set up My own reloading/casting stuff when I got out of the service. Still got the cast iron diffuser plate that came with the junk H.P.
    had to get a new one 5-6yrs back, maybe 20 bucks w/tax. 45yrs later and into my 3rd H.P., Hope this one lasts as long as My Grandma's did. It's a 1500W and will melt lead ingot left on top to pre-warm.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    I tend to add scrap lead into my lead pot, walk away to do gardening for my mother, and return ever so often to clean out the debri, add more scrap lead, remove the debri, and finally pour the molten lead into an ingot mold. Will the 1500w hot plate and small cast iron skillet be able to melt scrap lead?

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJung View Post
    I tend to add scrap lead into my lead pot, walk away to do gardening for my mother, and return ever so often to clean out the debri, add more scrap lead, remove the debri, and finally pour the molten lead into an ingot mold. Will the 1500w hot plate and small cast iron skillet be able to melt scrap lead?
    Yes!! The 1500 watt hotplate and an 8 inch cast iron skillet WILL melt scrap lead. That is what I use.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    A hot plate is a useful tool to heat a mold, provided it has a cover to hold the heat in and uniformly heat the mold. Otherwise, uneven heating can warp a mold.

    As far as melting range scrap I wouldn't even consider a hot plate. A pound of alloy only makes a little over 50 9mm bullets and about half that of 45. It would take forever to end up with a 100 pounds of clean ingots.

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Most hotplates you will find out there will not get hot enough to melt a pot of lead, unless you want to wait for HOURS!.....and hours.

    I use my lab grade (digitally controlled flat top) for only preheating my molds to full casting temp.....not just warming them! I get perfect drops from the 1st pour.

    Also use the plate to pre-heat your feed ingots to just under liquidous temp of your specific alloy to save cycle time when refreshing your casting pot.

    Same with powder coating ovens.....you get what you pay for. Some use cheap junk store bare element hot plates with no temp control and an old saw blade on top of the coils to prevent mold warpage and damage. My lab grade hotplate sold for over $250.00.

    But do NOT try most of them for melting lead, as the heat density is just not there!!!!!! Some may have found just the right combo of "stuff" to make it work for their scrap re-melting and casting needs, but my plumber's furnace will easily melt 80-90# of scrap in about 10 minutes! Runs on propane. Sounds like a jet engine when I run it on high. Does an excellent job for me. Or use a turkey fryer as many on here do. Just not NOT electric.

    Good luck choosing what works for you.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    Used a second hand hot plate to melt wheelweights and cast using a single cavity 358477 mold, and ladle when I started casting in the late 1960's. Still have the flat bottomed Lyman 10 pound pot and the aluminum pie plate "skirt" I made for it. The hotplate still works.
    Found an electric plumber's pot at a yard sale much later, and that's my smelter now. There's also a Lee 20 pound pot on the bench.

  18. #18
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    My two hotplates are most useful -- one, with a 3" thick aluminum disc upon it, and an inverted metal flower pot with a "door hole" cut in it to preheat and keep moulds warm; the second for general "whatever" from keeping coffee warm, on... (image attached)Click image for larger version. 

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    My brand of choice (garage sale) is the old General Electric branded one with a flat solid top and a knobbed off-hi temperature controller. I think I paid a couple-three dollars and was ecstatic for a week or so. It turned out the bi-metallic "switch" had been sparked off to no longer function. My solution? Put a few wraps of copper wire around the switch to keep it "100% on", and then plug unit into a $5.00 lamp dimmer (Home Depot or Lowe's). This one I keep for casting, and marked the "perfect" spot for dial with a Sharpie. Been working GREAT for better than fifteen years!
    I question melting range scrap for a couple of reasons: First, the lead/scrap is quite heavy -- many hot plates are not designed for much weight -- if you go this route, BE CAREFUL!!! Second, to achieve the requisite temp surely would be rather slow... A small propane heater/cookstove might be a lot quicker? And third, one thing I'd really wish to avoid is the (toxic) fumes from heating lead/range scrap. I only do this outdoors, on a breezy day, and am most serious in always staying up-wind.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Good point about the weight! I never thought about that. Most El-CHEEPO plates are not built t support 80# of lead! PLUS the CI pot!

    Better off today starting out by just getting a turkey fryer and do it right.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich/WIS View Post
    Use mine for pre-heating molds and ingots. Mine was Oster from Walmart, solid surface type and was about $20 IIRC. Worth every penny for what it is used for. Not sure the Wattage but amp draw is low, can plugh it and the Lee 4-20 pot into the same 20 Amp outlet and not trip the breaker.
    Do you need to add a metal plate on top of the hot plate with the solid surface?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check