Rolling Block Pistol Project & Welding?

[lar45]

The rifle got here on the big brown truck.
The wife says it's too nice to cut up.

[Jedman]

The rifle got here on the big brown truck.
The wife says it's too nice to cut up.

I was looking at that exact rifle several times and came very close to buying it. I am very fond of 50-70’s and was thinking of rechambering it and making a carbine of it but after seeing more clearly I have way to many projects started and in waiting to get another. I do like the looks of the stocks, you should consider keeping them as is and making the pistol grip yourself.

Jedman

[lar45]

Spent tonight doing a chamber cast . Thr only thing clearly defined is the lead into the rifling. So I sized a case in 50-70 dies, put it into the chamber until it touched, then marked with a sharpie. It looks like a 1.725" case will fit. The front of the chamber is way too small to chamber a 50-70, or a case with a .512" bullet seated. It looks like a .504" bullet will be about max. The throat is .200" long and a straight taper from about the end of the case to the rifling. The junction from the end of the case to the start of the throat is rounded off. Doesn't look like they gave too much thought to reamer design. Or maybe they kept it simple on purpose? I measured the lands and grooves, but can't remember the specs off the top of my head. The barrel is bright and Shiney, no pits, corrosion or dark spots anywhere.
The action is tight, no wiggle or slop anywhere.
I made some cases and a dummy round to check fit and set the dies.
Started with 50AK Starline brass, used a tubing cutter to trim to 1.725" . Full length sized in 50-70 sizer die, then ran mouth of case about .6" into a 500S&W sizer so it would grip a .502" bullet.
I've got a Lee 50-440 mold, but I'm thinking about maybe the Lee 50 360 hollow base Minnie to expand and fit the barrel...

[nuclearcricket]

Here is another place to get a pistol action casting kit. http://therifleshoppe.com/catalog_pa...arts/(902).htm . I am ordering one of their #2 kits and was told yesterday it may take up to 120 days to get the action casting from the foundry.
Sam

[lar45]

I wrote the atf and they said they would respond through official correspondence.

[cwtebay]

I wrote the atf and they said they would respond through official correspondence.

Excellent decision!
Would you mind sharing your response with the group?

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[lar45]

No problems, when it gets here, I'll snap a picture

[uscra112]

Were rolling blocks that old forged, or cast? If cast, they will be malleable iron, and not weldable at all. If forged, the steel will be pretty close to our 1018.

And yes, Rodney Storie is still in business. I bought a couple of Ballard extractors from him not a month ago.

[Nobade]

And yes, Rodney Storie is still in business. I bought a couple of Ballard extractors from him not a month ago.

I'm glad to hear he is still going. I had heard he closed up shop. I used to ride by there occasionally when out on the motorcycle but it's been a while.

[uscra112]

That's a long ride, from SE WV to Shawnee Oklahoma!

[Nobade]

That's a long ride, from SE WV to Shawnee Oklahoma!

I was in NM. I also think I have two guys confused. Rodney Storie is not the same as Al Storie. I'm thinking of the guy down near Deming NM who made the Borschart rifles.

[lar45]

From what I've read so far is that the first Swedish Rolling blocks were made by Remington, then they ordered some actions and finished them there, and lastly they made their own complete rifles from Swedish steel
. Also the Remington rifles and actions are supposed to have Remington proof marks on them. The Carl Gustaf rifles are supposed to be proofed for higher pressures than the Remington ones. The ones they converted to 8x?? Were supposed to have been reheat treated for smokeless.
All of this was from various internet forums, so it may all be bunk. Lol.

[john.k]

Most old US 'serious" guns are case hardened soft steel......IMHO steel so soft,its sometimes difficult to machine ,unless you go back to 1870s advice to use razor sharp cutting edges......any carbide insert will ball up and gouge the steel.........the carburized case will be file hard,for around 040 under the surface.......Anyhoo,I generally weld with a 312 stainless filler,and then weld a thin surface layer of soft steel to blue or case harden..........the only warning is tig weld deposit often colour case hardens with strange colours,like greens and pinks.