I am looking for a competent gunsmith who works on T/C Contender frames. Mike Bellm no longer fools with these and I've tried Google, but I would like to hear from you folks if there is someone you have used and would recommend. Thank you very much for your time.
What is the problem with it? T/C Tenders are not that difficult to work on.
That's going to be a tall order, but I have been working on mind for 30 years. So what you got?
Last edited by M-Tecs; 04-07-2022 at 11:09 PM.
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What is the problem?
Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!
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With this current frame, and it just began doing this (maybe 30 rds. in use?), the action opens upon firing. I can not tell/see about the lugs on the inner frame and the springs appear to be good on the 2 piece bolt, but I have no idea what the proper tension is to be, they just feel stiff engaging by hand - this is on an MGM 14" barrel. I was lucky, I've had Contenders from high school in 1990 up till about 2010 and NEVER had an issue and shot the hell out of them. . .now in the last few years, I've wanted to get back into using a Contender for my hunting handgun and I've done very little shooting and running into all sorts of problems purchasing used frames. Should have never sold what I had years ago. Let me know your thoughts or opinions. Thank you.
Contender frames are tough for me to figure out. I have a couple of the pre-easy open (?) frames which just sit idle because they are way too difficult to open.
"The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
- Albert Camus -
If you put dykem or other marking agents on the barrel's locking lugs and close it, you'll be able to see how much is engaging. If it's not enough you can stone them very gently until they engage all the way and that behavior will stop. Clean the frame and everything first so you know it's not dirt keeping them from going all the way into battery.Originally Posted by OFFSHORE
Also make sure their is no oil on the locking bolts as this will also make it open on firing.
What is the chambering? I've found this occurs more with bottle neck cartridges than straight wall, but it was happening with a Bullberry 44 mag. I had with an extremely tight chamber. Correct brass sizing is extremely important. A good place to start...Keep turning the size die into your press a tiny bit at a time and try closing the gun on an empty case. Stop when you get a nice firm snap of the locking bolt into the frame. I'd be surprised if this doesn't fix the problem. If that doesn't do it, color the underside of the 2 piece locking bolt with black felt tip pen. Slowly and carefully stone or use extremely fine emery cloth on the half that shows the most shine. What's happening is the action isn't closing far enough and the locking bolt isn't engaging the "shelf" far enough in the frame to engage the interlock safety to shut down firing. Lastly, like tctender said, the inside mechanism of the frame needs to be dry.
All Good Stuff.. Is the barrel a Split lug Lock-up or a Single Locking Lug?? I have changed Many of them..
Better question yet... easy open frame??? or the Old (Trigger Guard pivot pin in the very Front)style??? It Matters.
Sell Me One!!!!!
It's not the frame that is the problem there. It is the locking lug not fitting into the recess locking shoulder far enough. Put Dykem on the lug and open close a couple times to see how much engagement there is as mentioned. If you have either a solid or split locking lug remove it from the barrel [it's not hard to do]. Lay a piece of course crocus/emery cloth on a flat hard surface and move the bottom of the lug [if split lugs hold them together] around to sand it a bit thinner. Then install back in barrel, re-Dykem and open shut again. It does not take much to get full engagement so go slow, sand a little then test.
Sand only the bottom of the lug(s), do not sand the angled top surface.
Actually the fact the new barrel doesn't lock up tight most often indicates the frame hasn't stretched and the locking surface is in good condition.
Larry Gibson
“Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
― Nikola Tesla
If you do not have the trigger guard fully down, the locking lugs will not engage fully. Pull the grip off, turn the trigger guard screw out until there is no tension on the trigger guard, then turn the screw in until there is just enough tension to hold the trigger guard up even or just below even to the bottom of the frame. Replace the grip, That should fix your unlocking problem. Sounds like someone tried to reduce the pressure required to unlock the barrel, by screwing in the tension screw. If not fixed, replace the coil spring the screw holds down.
If adjusting the trigger guard does not work, pull the locking lugs on that barrel and polish the tops with a hard Arkansas Stone, do not use a Dremmel tool. Use Dykem or soot, lamp black, to check the lug engagement first. With the exchanging of barrels, you will find one, once in a while, that will not lock up fully, but when someone says a used frame, that indicates someone may have fooled with the adjustments.
Good luck.
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I had the same thing happen with a 14" 44Mag barrel that I bought at a gun show. I called T/C (pre S&W) and they sent me a new set of locking lugs. Problem solved, but I don't know if S&W will provide parts these days. They still sell new barrels, so they might. At any rate, the advice given above to lightly sand the bottom of the lug is good.
Gentlemen,
I sure do appreciate all your advice and helpful tips. I have removed the spit locking lugs 4 times and sanded with 600 grit paper with the aid of a black sharpie. At first there were drag marks in the center and halfway towards the muzzle, now there is only black sharpie. I took my action out in the yard and gave it a good heavy dose of Brakleen and q-tips, then repeated the process once more. I can't really say I feel like I have done much of anything to it. . .but, I am going to shoot some this weekend to find out. I will report on my progress. And thanks again to you all for the pointers, I really enjoy the folks on this forum and the wealth of knowledge they bring!!!
Specs on the project;
- T/C Contender 419XXX mid-90's frame
- 14" MGM 44 mag w/ split lugs
- Trigger (36oz./40oz.) and frame pin upgrade
- Carbine rifle forend with Stratton hanger-bar system
- Pachmayr Decelerator grip
- Leupold DeltePoint Pro sight
What is a "frame pin upgrade?? and make sure the Pachmayr is Not interfereing with triggerguard return to fully extended..
Hinge pin. . .my apologies.
Alrighty fellas. . . I made it to the range today and I was able to shoot 30 rounds before the barrel started acting up. I pulled it apart and the lugs showed a small light dot of contact (about the size of a #6 shot) in the centers of each lug. I performed the sharpie & 600 grit paper process two more times while I was at the range and sometimes it remained closed and sometimes it would open. I was running out of time and had another set of loads for another gun to work on so I packed it away.
My questions is; should I keep up with the sanding/polishing process -OR- is there something else going on here? Thanks again.
30 shots before a problem ...appears to be improving. Sand a bit more.
Larry Gibson
“Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
― Nikola Tesla
Is the small white dot appearing on the top of the bolt halves or the bottom? Sanding/polishing must be done on the bottom only. The angles on top must remain as original.
30 shots before a problem ...appears to be improving. Sand a bit more.
Is it possible to over do it, or should I continue until the wear marks stop or opening issue stops???
Is the small white dot appearing on the top of the bolt halves or the bottom? Sanding/polishing must be done on the bottom only. The angles on top must remain as original.
I am only sanding the flat bottom of the two lugs and doing so together then reinstalling and shooting/testing.
I may go slip off to some dead end road somewhere and pop off a few rounds to check things out. . .if not it will not be till the weekend before I can shoot again at the range.
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