Im looking for those who have experience with and own a mould made by Tom at Accurate Moulds that works well with the 357 SIG.Im not interested in anything Lee or other mfgs.i will be powder coating these bullets.Thanks for your help!
Im looking for those who have experience with and own a mould made by Tom at Accurate Moulds that works well with the 357 SIG.Im not interested in anything Lee or other mfgs.i will be powder coating these bullets.Thanks for your help!
Last edited by barnabus; 04-07-2022 at 07:34 AM.
Email Tom at Accurate and ask the same question.
To paraphrase Ronald Reagan, the trouble with many shooting experts is not that they're ignorant; its just that they know so much that isn't so.
I am also curious what folks use.
Don't look like many folks use Accurate Moulds in their 357 SIG ... I don't .
If you want to expand the search to include other mould makers ...I might can help .
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
I don't own a .357 Sig, but I can walk you through my thought process that served me well on .45 ACP and 9mm, as well as that of bottlenecked rifle rounds.
In looking at the blueprints for .357 Sig, the neck section allows for a base that is no more than 0.15" long. The cartridge overall length of 1.140" allows for no more than .275" of bullet ahead of the case mouth. Therefore, you have a rough max bullet length of .425" - - .491" if you seat the bullet down to the base of the shoulder.
If you're looking to powder coat, you won't need lube grooves. Considering that, along with the computations above, it looks like a bullet of roughly 120 grains is what that cartridge is likely to need.
My favorite 9mm bullet is essentially the Accurate 35-135D (NOE Ranch Dog version). Since the 9mm is a straightwall case with no shoulder increase of diameter, I seat to where the full .357" diameter ends at the case mouth and the nose taper has cleared any interference from the throat on numerous make 9mm's.
What I would suggest for the .357 Sig is to start with bullets like the 35-122S and 35-125B and request that Tom fill the lube grooves in and adjust the drive band and nose length sections to suit the round's dimensions. If you can get Tom the SAAMI chamber specs as well, that might help on the nose contours.
The ogive taper will depend on your throat and bore (not groove) diameter. The 125B has a slight step in front of the drive band to help with that, but if the a taper matches your throat, you're equally good and can keep some extra forward mass. I don't know how tightly throats for your round are commonly cut.
WWJMBD?
In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.
I shoot & load for .357SIG. Accurate’s website notes particular molds that have a nose section short enough for the .357SIG… which is a max nose length of 0.25” (my magazine can handle a 0.30” nose, but that makes for a longer than SAAMI spec cartridge).
*
PC for the SIG keeps the lube groove out of the powder, and the portion that is in the neck is reducing the already low neck tension. If Tom doesn’t have a SIG mold without a lube groove, ask for one - surface area of contact in the neck is directly & linearly proportional to the amount of neck tension. You might still want hard lead to help with neck tension. As much as soft lead reduces neck tension, keep the PC thin.
I could be wrong - it happens at least daily.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |