Swedish RB 8x58RD conversion to 45 colt?

[Wolfer]

I have a Rolling block chambered in 8x58RD. Making Ammo for it is a bit of a pain. I also have a 45 cal green mtn blank setting around.

Thinking about rebarreling this old roller to 45 colt.
Does anyone see any problems with this that I’ve not thought of?

[John Taylor]

Depends on which 45 barrel you have, some may be too small in diameter. The extractor will most likely need some work.

[Wolfer]

Hmm, could be. I’ll dig the barrel out tomorrow and see how big it is.

[john.k]

45 Colt is not a good case for a single shot.....the case has virtually no rim-a case with a big rim like a 45/70 would be a lot better

[Wolfer]

Well my blank is 1”. Borderline big enough. Extractor would probably need some work. Since my blank is only 20” long I would need to build a different forearm. Probably only way to match the buttstock is to replace it also.

Starting to rethink this project. I have one of the 1867 models that I’ve rebarreled to 40-65 Win. It works great.
As long as I’m alive Ammo for this gun is not a problem. None of my kids/ grandkids are very interested in this sort of stuff at the time being. I was just looking at ease of use for future owners.

Any ideas for better conversions, 45-70, 40-65 come to mind. 38-55 with some extractor work. Suggestions?

[marlinman93]

45 Colt is not a good case for a single shot.....the case has virtually no rim-a case with a big rim like a 45/70 would be a lot better

There's no reason a single shot in .45 colt would be any different than a levergun in .45 Colt. If it can work well in a levergun, it should work even better in a single shot where the extractor only pulls the case out partially and the shooter does the rest.

The biggest issue would be the barrel diameter, and whether it will be large enough to thread for a Rolling Block action. It could be done by turning the shank on the barrel, and making a thread adapter to screw on the barrel, and turning that to fit the Rolling Block. Just a question of how much work you want to pay for to make it a .45 Colt? But having the barrel already will save a major amount of the cost.

But at 20" I personally think the proportions will look stubby, and I wouldn't do it. Aesthetically it wont be very appealing.

[Wolfer]

I agree. My original plan for this barrel was a stub job on a 410 shotgun. Probably going to stay with that plan and look for a suitable blank for the rolling block.

[Wolfer]

GMB has a 38-40 blank in stock. 25” x 1.06. Might not need extractor work. Does anyone know the barrel thread dimensions on these rifles?

[Gewehr-Guy]

The barrel thread should be the same as a Remington #1 action, as the first 30,000 were supplied by Rem. I think they were .980 x 8 TPI acme, but thats from memory. I had a barrel stub, but have not seen it lately.

[MOA]

M1867 Swedes have flat threads I think.

[HWooldridge]

How about 44-40? Someone here did a stub rifle build awhile back.

[M-Tecs]

45 Colt is not a good case for a single shot.....the case has virtually no rim-a case with a big rim like a 45/70 would be a lot better

The 45 Colt works great in the Contenders and Encore and a host of other single shot rifles like the 45 Colt baby sharps, Rossi break action and various Low Wall and High Wall rifles.

[Gewehr-Guy]

I was wrong, looked it up on Wikopedia, and they said .975 x 12 square thread.

[Whole Bunches]

I respectfully disagree on ease of reloading. Take 8x56r Hungarian brass. Partial size neck enough to hold 8mm cast boolit. Seat boolit out, but enough to be held in neck. Shoot...I use 2400. Superb accuracy, fireforms brass, and only partial neck sizing is needed for the next reload. I’m up to 10 reloads per case with no lost brass and no trimming ever. I use the Lee 240 gr Max mold. When firing that first shot, it hits same as when using formed brass. No rim altering needed. My load doesn’t always fully fireform, but it causes no problems.

[MOA]

The 8x56mm Hungarian brass.


The Lee Maximum boolit.


The cartridge.


I had Lee make up a custom FCD just in case I needed to crimp.

[Wolfer]

Yeah, I probably just need to buy the dies and brass. I file off the belt on 338 win mag cases. Drive them into a sizing die I made. Cut to length and fire form. Another die I made just sizes the neck and another seats the boolit.

Once a case is made they seem to last good. But very time consuming with a high failure rate.

[sharps4590]

I expect the 8 X 58RD has been thoroughly covered on this board. Briefly, I've used 45-70 brass but came to prefer 45-90. Near perfect cases. I bought proper dies from CH-4D. Load is a 200 gr. Accurate bullet over IMR-4227. It's a hoot!!!

[John Taylor]

Several years back I got tired of recoil so I made my roller in 38-55 with a 34" barrel. Working on one now in 22 short.

[mira]

Hi Wolfer,

how did you pulled out the safety screw placed on left side (of the rolling block frame/breech block) its without any notch???

Mira

[GregLaROCHE]

I would think twice modifying a classic gun. All that I see for sale are usually much lower priced than originals. I like old guns, especially if you can still shoot them.