Was given a Hensly&Gibbs mold ...

[Digger]

IT looks like a 30 cal but no ID numbers that I am used to seeing for reference ...
Just has a stamped 20 near the edge besides the company I.D. stamp that is common with these .
Would anyone have a guess ?
Have yet to cast with it but will soon to get the final dimensions.
Attachment 273340
Attachment 273343

[AndyC]

.30 Caliber, 170 gr Gas-checked.

Specifically:

#20 - .30 Caliber. Squibb-Miller 170 grain design. Gas check, one grease groove then grease/crimp groove with no forward bore diameter flat section before start of nose taper. Sharp point. "See August 1948 issue of American Rifleman, page 59- "One-hole groups" "January 30, 1951--Stafford Lewis--Size .308--1" at 100 yards." "June 27, 1955 J.C. Kotas Good 200 and 300 yards" "April 24, 1950. "Elrick- Iron sights, 1" at 75 yards" "March 29 1949” Harl Lee Jr. "Excellent results"

https://www.hensleygibbs.com/casting...uld%20List.htm

Edit: Found a thread here on that mold that may be useful:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...425-H-amp-g-20

[retread]

Look here. https://www.hensleygibbs.com/molds/20_2.jpg

[Conditor22]

Nice, where do I find friends like that

that molds going to take a little cleaning either a brass brush (some people do;t like doing that)
or a propane torch and a 1/8 in pointy bamboo skewer to get all that lead of the face of the mold.

You'll need to show us pictures of the boolits you cast out of it.

[metricmonkeywrench]

Squibb bullets are a hoot to shoot, I have a Lyman 311413. More or less at 200 yards they shoot with 600 yard dope with an 03 Springfield. With my scoped -06 I have to aim about 12 to 16in over the bull.

[sigep1764]

Look very similar to a Lyman xxx413 mold. Had one for the 270, they made them for 30 cal as well. I couldn't make it shoot well in my Model 70 at any speed. No terrible, but nothing to brag about. Hopefully that H&G will be better.

[StuBach]

As stated above that is very similar to the 311413 Ideal/Lyman mold which has a known history of being temperamental. Some people swear by them but most struggle for a good load (based on what I’ve read and what grandpas notes tell me about the history of his which he ended up turning into a sinker mold)

Looking at condition of cavity I would recommend hitting it with some degreaser or break cleaner, clean it up a little with a soft rag and give her a go. HG molds are works of art that cast amazingly and that one looks in great shape. At temp you can use a toothpick or wedge of pine to scrape off the tinning.

I, too, wish I had friends like that. That mold will last several life times if cared for well. Grandpas two HGs are already well into lifetime number 2 as he bought them in the 50s and they are still the best casters in my collection almost 70 years later and 13 years after his passing.

[dale2242]

I have a #20 H & G mold.
It casts at 170 gr with my rifle alloy of 50/50 WW/Lino.
It is my go to to bullet in my M1 Garand.

[Digger]

Thank you gentlemen for all the input ...reference material is great .
Will cast a few and see how they do in my favorite toy , have a ''Tanker" Garand in 308 .

[beagle]

Buckshot gave me a 311413HP some years back and it shoots well in the 1700-1900 range in my Number 1 Ruger in 06. Later I picked up a bronze Yankee mould in this design and it shoots really well. You have a good one there in good condition. Take care of it and don't try to do things with it that it's not designed for.
The Squibb design got a bad rap back when the DCM Springfields came out. The DCM also sold milsurp 4895 powder in quantity. The guys that got the Springfields looked at the bullet and thought, that's the right nose shape. I can load to M2 Ball velocities and have everything. Didn't work. They pushed it too hard and it failed on them in this application and got a bad name. It's a good bullet at moderate velocities./beagle

[Digger]

Jump back into an older thread here ....
Pulled it off the shelf as life has given me time for my self lately .
Been experimenting using Smoke's powder and enjoying the process using this mold as it is one of the most enjoyable to use .
The boolets just drop out with out tapping and very consistent results , no other mold performs like this .
Black , clear ,blue and red

[yeahbub]

Just my $.02: As has been mentioned, designs like this with the long spire point are limited in velocity, but I have discovered a fix to improve this weakness. I have a copy of the H&G #20 and when paper patched up for use in an 8x57, accurate shooting at higher velocities is possible. I was using jacketed bullet starting loads for that weight and keeping them in 3" at 100 yards. I attribute this to the paper patch providing added support to the normally unsupported ogive, thus leaving less of it unsupported. I would expect this effect to be increased if a PP'd boolit was then sized down to .310-312" for use in various .30 cal's, as the support of the patching would be extended, thus shortening further the unsupported portion. When I patch and size to the needed diameter, I try to do this the same day I cast so they'll still be soft when I size them.

[Digger]

Digging thru my collection ...
I found a 4 cavity lyman 311413 that has never been used !
With that , I have yet to seriously shoot my lyman 20 "scraper groove" that I have been casting a few and powder coating.
Reading in the forum about these two designs ... What are the differences as they look so close .
It has been stated that the 20 has its limitations , with that does that apply to the 311413 Also ?