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Thread: What I did to my Shotguns

  1. #1
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    What I did to my Shotguns

    I have posted most of this in various threads but I am going to post it all on one thread so people can see what I did based on my experiences in 7 Tactical Shotgun Classes at Front Sight and shooting Local 3 Gun Shoots with these 3 Mossberg 500's. Everything is directly applicable to M590's and 590 A1's, and most of it will work on Rem 870's and others as well.

    The first two classes were brutal, and I came home beat up pretty bad. I'm talkin' Seriously Bruised Shoulder and on the Second 4 day course the whole right side of my face was black when I got home. I then figured out how to keep my cheek weld on the gun, as every time I didn't, I got smacked in the chops.

    By the Third Class I had the gun pretty much sussed out and had a Decent Idea of what to do with it. This was with the 20" M500 my first Tac Shotgun.

    This stuff works and was arrived at by Trial and Error from both the classes and local 3 gun shoots. It could save you a lot of bruises.

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    The guns are a 20" Tactical M500 7+1 and a 18.5" HD M500 5+1. Both guns are set up exactly the same way except the HD gun doesn't ordinarily have a sling attached, but it does have the capability.

    Both guns have Open Rifle Sights and I like the Green Williams Fiber Optic Front Sights because in the sunlight they are impossible to miss. At night with a light on the gun they are also impossible to miss. Unfortunately the Front Sight on the Barrel of the HD gun is solid, and I haven't figured out a way to install one on it yet. I have them on Rifles, Pistols and 3 Shotguns.

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    Both guns have Brownell's High Ridge Safeties installed and they were dehorned as using them in their stock form would result in Bloody Thumbs. One significant advantage of the Mossberg platform over others is the placement of the safety which makes the gun Ambidextrous.

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    Both guns have Magpul Furniture Black on one and Gray on the other, and both guns have the Magpul to Remington Recoil Pad Adapters and Pads. These pads are much larger and squishier than the pad that comes with the Magpul stocks. Also to insure a more squared up stance to the target all the Stock Spacers are absent. LOP is 12.5". I am 5'11" These stocks and Fore ends have the best Ergonomics for operating a shotgun I have seen, and are well worth the $100 or so bucks. They are easy to install and adjust to your body type.

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    Both guns have been completely internally deburred and run very smooth. Can't really show that, but trust me, they run slick.

    Continued on next Post.

    Randy
    Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 03-28-2022 at 02:26 PM.
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
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  2. #2
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    Continued from above:

    Both guns have Brown Coat Tactical 6 round Velcro Side Saddles attached to the left side of the receiver. They can be removed from the gun in seconds and replaced in seconds as well. With one on the gun and 2 in your pocket with a loaded gun you'll have 24-26 rounds available to deal with whatever. These are among the best quality products of this type I have seen and the price is right. They come in 2,4,6,and 8 hole versions.

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    Slings: I make my own slings out of 1.5" wide Nylon Belting just like 5.11 TDU Belts are made from. These are wider than normal and spread the load of the gun out over a larger area so as to decrease the fatigue of a thinner strap.

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    They are held to the gun using Grove-Tec Limited Rotation Quick Disconnect Swivel Sockets, threaded into the holes in the sides of the stock.
    When carrying the gun Cross Body the sling is attached to the outside socket which then keeps the gun pulled into you while standing as opposed to falling away from you. If Conventional Carry is used then the sling is attached to the left side of the stock so once again the gun is held against you while carrying. In either case the gun lays flat against you and requires the least amount on hands on to maintain control of it. This reduces fatigue which causes deterioration of your concentration. You don't want attention on anything other than "Running the Gun, Finding Cover" and "Acquiring Targets and Dropping them! " Anything else will get you killed.

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    Weapons Lights: Both guns have a 3" piece of Pic Rail mounted under the Fore End for mounting a Streamlight TLR-1. You need a light on an HD gun because you will probably need it most at night so you don't shoot your wife or kids. I like these because they are as good or better than anything else out there and reasonably priced. They also are easily removed as you don't need them in the day time.

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    Now one of the big items: Both guns have had their barrels modified with the Vang Comp Process. www.vangcomp.com . This process consists of lengthening the Forcing Cone in front of the chamber to 3". Backboring the barrel to .745, and the reamer used has the last 2" tapering back down to .730. Also Porting consisting of 62 holes which reduces muzzle rise.

    This improves the patterning of Buckshot dramatically. Both guns Pattern Regular 00 Buckshot into 7" at 25 yards which makes Buckshot viable out to 50 yards. This also spreads out the recoil impulse over a longer time and reduces "Perceived Recoil". These guns are a joy to shoot and I can easily shoot 200 rounds in a day with no after effects wearing Shorts and a Tee Shirt.

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    Now the last item,,, Ammo: There is no need for anything more powerful for HD or actual "Tactical" use, than Regular LOW RECOIL Buckshot or Slugs. I use Federal mostly or my own loaded ammo. For Target Use in the classes we use Walmart Winchester or Federal 12 ga. #8 birdshot loads which are normally $21.74/100,,, hard to beat .22 cents a round. I prefer the Federal Ammo as the crimps are finished better than the Winchester ammo which aids in feeding, but either will suffice.

    This is what I do to my Shotguns. You can feel free to use any of my suggestions or all of them, but know this. I am super finicky about all my guns and the way that they interact with my body. I spend lots of time just fondling them and finding all the little hotspots that in a intense training environment will come to the surface and wear holes in you and make you miserable or just annoy the hell out of you.

    All these improvements were arrived at after finding inadequacies in previous setups, Strictly Trial and Error. After 7, 2 and 4 day Shotgun Classes at Front Sight and approximately 180+ hours of training. I can go thru a class and not have any bruises or holes worn thru my skin or any discomfort whatsoever. I never wear more than a Tee shirt and Shorts at these classes.

    All this started as a result of touching off a couple of High Base Slugs from behind a bale of hay at a local 3 Gun Shoot which resulted in 3 trips to my Chiropractor to get a rib put back in. I swore I was not going to let my ignorance of Combat Shotgun Technique and Setup to persist. I got training and lots of it. My guns evolved to the point where they are a "Joy to Shoot" and don't hurt me. Yours can be like this too, but it is more than just modifying the gun, You need the training to go with IT!!! www.frontsight.com

    Nobody was born knowing how to do anything, you need to be taught everything. That's why we have Parents and Schools!

    What this Set Up does for me, is allow me to concentrate on the techniques of gun handling and accuracy that I wouldn't be able to concentrate on with lesser prepared guns. Your guns will evolve just as mine did until you won't be worrying about recoil or any kind of pain. You can’t concentrate on training if you are getting the snot beat out of you every time you pull the trigger. Also going to one class and thinking you are set for life is pretty short sighted. You will need several runs thru to get it as muscle memory takes time to soak in.

    I'm going to #7 soon! And I come back seriously better each time. Also Shotgun Classes are by far the most fun, nothing like blasting away at a steel target 15 yards away and seeing it get punished and knowing what kind of power you are dishing out.

    Life is too short to put up with ill fitting, or poorly prepared guns.

    Hope this helps some of you figure out how to set up these guns.

    Randy
    Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 04-22-2022 at 03:34 AM.
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
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  3. #3
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    Here's pics of my latest project.

    It is a Vintage ($300) Montgomery Wards Mossberg 500. I call it the "Monkeyberg." It started life as a Field Grade Shotgun with Wooden Furniture.

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    It came with a 28" Vent Rib Barrel that I cut to 18.5" and sent to Vang Comp for threading for Rem Choke Tubes.

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    I used a Limbsaver Recoil Pad on this one as Midway didn't have any Remington ones in stock but I think it will work just fine.

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    I used William's Clamp On Fire Sights on the Vent Rib.

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    I also got a Carlson's Rifled Choke Tube for it just to see how it shoots slugs thru that. They are supposed to work really well and mimic the Paradox Guns of 125 years ago. We'll see how that works. It should improve Slug Accuracy which is one of the primary loads for this gun.
    Hence the Rifle Sights.

    IMHO Rifle Sights are a must have on a Tactical Shotgun, you are essentially fielding a .73 caliber Rifle or Musket depending on how you look at it. Once you shoot the gun enough you will see that Sights are just as fast on target as a bead and much more accurate with slugs. And they are adjustable.

    I'm a Big Fan of Carlson's Choke tubes as they are the best bang for the buck out there.

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    There is one other doodad I used and that is a Combo Front Sling Mount/ Pic Rail Section from GG&G and it made attaching a Sling to the gun in the proper place easy.

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    Continued,,,,
    Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 03-23-2022 at 08:46 PM.
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
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  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Good thread Randy.
    Don Verna


  5. #5
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    I absolutely love frankenmossberg's. We have come to very similar conclusions, although mine are much more hunting orientated than yours. I completely agree on the side saddle. A velcro attachment is the way to go. It's plenty secure, and you can take it off whenever you want. We ended up with similar safeties. I use the one from NDZ, which doesn't need modification. One thing you sometimes run into on a Mossberg is a very stiff safety. The reason for this is too long of a spring for the detent ball. I found the best fix is to take the spring to a bench grinder, and grind it so that the bottom of the ball is about even with the surface of the frame. It only takes a second, and makes a huge difference in the safety feel. One advantage to the 590 is that it comes with a bayonet lug on the barrel. This a great attachment point for a sling. I'm not convinced on the Vang Comp backboring. I'd have to see a bunch of pattern testing to see that it does better than a normal barrel with an IC choke threaded in. I'd say the two biggest differences in our setups is the rear stock and the sights, and it is likely because one effects the other. I too like sights for slugs, but I'm going about it a different way. I'm after very low profile wide sights, think dangerous game rifle wide V sights. Not the most precise, but pretty good, and very fast. I'm also trying to make the rear flip down to give options. Again, more hunting orientated, than purely defensive use. Plus stocks fit everyone different. I do have one question on the flashlight though. Is there any particular reason you chose to mount it directly underneath at 6 o'clock? You don't have it mentioned, but do you have a separate switch for the light? I made my own mount high on the forend. I'm a lefty, so I mounted it on the right side, up at maybe 1 o'clock, almost touching the barrel. It is a Maglite Mag-Tac with the button on the rear. I have it mounted on a small picatinny rail that was originally meant for your M-lock, but I milled the back off, then milled the groove into my forend, and screwed it on with a backplate. It is a rock solid mount. I got it so I can easily hit the light with my thumb, but I am considering going to a separate switch, one because the switch is a bit small when trying to be fast, and two, my light can only be used left handed. When I did this, I made 3 different forends. One up high, which I kept, one at 90 degrees 3 o'clock, and one straight down like yours at 6 o'clock. I did not give the bottom mount much thought since I could not hit the switch as it was. The 3 o'clock was terrible. It made the gun super wide, and was not easy to use. Up real high I find has the main advantage for me is that it lights up the sights. It's a great coyote gun.

  6. #6
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    Because of the twist direction rifled choke tubes tighten with every shot until they are hard to remove, keep checking it while your shooting.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Looks great. I have gone a different route. I run a 13+1 set up with an additional 22 rounds on the gun. I have cut the brass bead off the barel and filed it smooth so just the brass nut is showing. Now it cannot get caught on anything and lets face it its a shotgun. Point and shoot this gun is not setup to bust clays but it will. Lets face it if I empty the gun and have to reload BLANK is hit the fan. I kept with the factory front barrel looking fore stock. It came with the pistol grip and I swapped it out for a black syn youth with red rubber butt pad. Removed the heat shield to drop the weigh and its not legal in NYS. Updated the feed ramps and its a fun gun to kill them stinking pumpkins.

    You have a nice looking rig. They are fun to build. Thanks for sharing.
    Stop being blinded by your own ignorance.

  8. #8
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    I can almost feel what all that recoil would do to me. My approach was to load low recoil loads and they will still rock you after a while. I will have to look into a pad for my gun and one of the safety buttons with a bump. It has an old hardened rubber pad that is not too effective. Thank you for a good article.
    Quis Quis Quis, Quis Liberat Canes

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  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Randy had given good advice about low recoil loads. I do not need megablasters at the ranges I will use a SD shotgun. I had three Mossys until my buddy begged me to buy one I had modified so now down to two. I am looking for another and will do as Randy has done on the last gun. Buy a used field gun and modify it to suit me.

    I am too cheap to have mine worked over by Vang Comp. But I live in the boonies so, for a HD need past 25 yards, I have an AR standing next to each shotgun. I doubt there is much effect by back boring but cannot prove it so just an opinion. $255 for the modification is not that expensive but I used to be able to buy a used 500 for that...LOL. If I competed, I would likely have one gun done to gain a bit more performance. For HD, in my situation, it is unlikely to matter. My preferred load is buckshot for ranges to about 25 yards and better patterns at 50 yards are not important for my needs.

    I mention this not to dismiss what Randy has posted but to illustrate your needs may modify what will work for you. If I had to use buckshot 50 yards, I would first pattern the barrel and see if making the investment is warranted. In my case, low recoil loads address the recoil gremlin so any small reduction afforded by back boring are unlikely to be important. I am not going to unleash 10 rounds during a home invasion.

    BTW, I have low recoil slugs but never load them. I have a couple on the side saddle in case I ever needed to shoot through a door (I have solid wood doors) but have been thinking about replacing them with buckshot loads so I do not load them by mistake if I ever had to do a reload under stress.

    Lastly, heed Randy's advice for a shorter LOP. I first did that on my CAS shotgun where speed is important and a shorter LOP is an advantage.
    Don Verna


  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    That is why I shoot the mini shells. Twice as many fit in the gun and have very little kick. Not like a defensive gun needs to reach out to 100 yrds with thump. Only need to stop a bad pumpkin up and personal.
    Stop being blinded by your own ignorance.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Baltimoreed's Avatar
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    I build 2 inch WWAA 12ga loads that will function in my guns and give me an extra round in the mag. I use them for Wild Bunch matches in my 1897’s and M12 guns.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baltimoreed View Post
    I build 2 inch WWAA 12ga loads that will function in my guns and give me an extra round in the mag. I use them for Wild Bunch matches in my 1897’s and M12 guns.
    I have wondered about shortening regular shells. Please post what you have done to them.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master
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    The short shells are interesting. My concern is reliable feeing in a pump which is what I use for HD. One hang up
    at the wrong time could be lethal. I was going to try a couple of hundred but never got around to it.

    Randy, have you ever tried them in the Mossy 500's?
    Don Verna


  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    That is what I shoot mine out of mossy 500 with a adapter dumahjiggy thing.
    Stop being blinded by your own ignorance.

  15. #15
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    You need to print this story (study) whatever w/pics and send it to one of the better gun rags and make some money. Its a good article and better reading than I have seen in them for sometime. This is the kind of article we used to cherish instead of 2 page articles 90 percent about about when John Moses Browning got out of diapers and blah blah blah. thanks for your share.
    “You should tell someone what you know. There should be a history, so that men can learn from it.

    He smiled. “Men do not learn from history. Each generation believes itself brighter than the last, each believes it can survive the mistakes of the older ones. Each discovers each old thing and they throw up their hands and say ‘See! Look what I have found! Look upon what I know!’ And each believes it is something new.

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    The Californios

  16. #16
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by frkelly74 View Post
    I have wondered about shortening regular shells. Please post what you have done to them.
    Kelly74, I start by using a cut off tool I made out of a piece of 22 barrel and an exacto blade mounted in it to trim my ugly 12 ga shells to about 2 3/8 inches. I then load them as I would my standard 12 ga [same amt powder-same amt shot] but instead of using the hot pink CB0175 wads I use red CB1138 which have a shorter foot. I have an old Pacific DL150 press that I’ve adjusted to work with these. I did have to shorten the final crimp die and add a spacer for the starter crimp station. I found an aluminum crimp die from another junk press that I shortened to reach farther into the shorter shell. I also add an over shot card punched from my primer sleeves as you can see my folds don’t necessarily meet. But they work and give me an extra round in my mags. They end up being 2 inches long. They cycle fine in my Marlin pumps and ‘97s but sometimes in my M12s the front of the shell hits the front edge of the ejection port unless the gun is slightly tilted left. Been making these for years.
    Last edited by Baltimoreed; 03-24-2022 at 06:38 PM.

  17. #17
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    I'll start with answers to Mega's Post. First: the safety can be lightened up by simply backing the Screw off 1/4 turn. That lightens the tension on the detent ball enough to make the safety easy to operate when you are going to be doing it 500 times in a few days.

    The 20" Gun was my first one and it had a 18" bbl. Then Brownell's was selling the 20" bbl and mag tube complete with Rifle sights for $116!. That's what is on that gun. It is 7+1. It was my first one to be Vang Comped and between that and the big Remington Recoil Pad the gun was night and day different, and it was easy to see!!!. Add to that actually learning to keep my cheek weld in place made that gun a cream puff to shoot. Even the head shotgun instructor at Front Sight shot it and saw the difference in two shots! He's a customer now too.

    Don V: The Vang Comp Process makes these guns pattern 00 buck into 7" at 25 yards. At 5 yards its about 1.5" which means if you are going to take a Hostage Shot with your wife in the way you don't have to worry so much about hitting her in the face. This is also where the rifle sights come in. The POA on a Hostage shot is the Outside Ear. With a Regular Cylinder Bore you are looing at 15" at 15 yards or about 5" at 5 yards which means you probably have to hold off a little to be safe?. Mine is like a ragged hole, and I can remove a good portion of your face easily.

    The second gun was a used Field Gun I picked up for $160. I sold the wood furniture for $150 and bought the Magpul Furniture (gray). I found a 18" bbl with sights on it on eBay and sent it to Vang Comp. That gun has a couple thousand rounds thru it and is also a Cream Puff. It is primarily my HD gun that sits next to the bed "Cruiser Ready" Chamber Empty Mag Full and Safety Off. With 9 rounds of Buckshot on the gun and 2 slugs. I rack the slide and grab another round off the sidesaddle and I'm full up and ready to engage. It is a 5+1. So when sitting it has 5 in the mag and 6 on the side saddle.

    The Light on those guns is a Streamlight TLR1 and it has a Treadle Switch on the back that is Momentary Contact in one direction and full on the other way. I mount them on the bottom of the fore end so that switch is easy to get to and I can do it with either hand. Also it doesn't foul the sling in that position. All three guns have the same set up. You can also quickly take them off during the day when you don't need a light on the gun.

    The Third Gun is a Montgomery Wards Mossberg 500 I got it last summer and immediately knew what I wanted to do to it. It came with a 28" Vent rib barrel. I cut it off to 18.5" and sent it to Vang Comp for only "Threading" for Rem Choke Tubes. I wanted the bore to remain .730 to see how it would shoot slugs, so no Back Boring. I wish I'd had them lengthen the forcing cone though because the Recoil impulse is notably harsher than the other two guns. Still not bad, but I do notice the difference. It has a Limbsaver Recoil Pad because Midway didn't have any of the Remington ones in stock during the Remington break up. I also wanted to see if a Rifled Choke Tube would deliver any good accuracy with Lee or Lyman slugs.

    Also I am going to Front Sight with both the Short Guns next week to see if I can DG the Tactical Shotgun course with a Pump Gun? I already did it with my A5.

    There is a lot more to this thread that I am essentially transferring over from Calguns. so stay tuned ! At least the guys here know what I'm talking about.

    Randy
    Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 04-23-2022 at 06:39 PM.
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
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  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I also just noticed you kept the original screw for the safety. Again for anyone interested, that screw can be removed with a flat blade screwdriver. Just push down really hard. The safety from NDZ comes with a new screw, a socket cap screw, which is all around easier to deal with. I'm sure turning 1/4 turn out works for lightening the switch. Grinding the spring works too. Just using the thing probably breaks it in over time as well.

    Pro tip: if you are going to replace the safety, buy an extra detent ball or two. You WILL loose one if you don't. A #4 or #5 bird shot works in a pinch.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I hope you don't mind me posting some pictures of my own Randy.

    This is what I've done to mine. The biggest change was the flashlight mount. I did this on an endmill. I have never seen a better flashlight mount for my purposes than this. It's fairly simple to do if you have a mill. You could probably do just as effective a job by hand, but it would be ugly. The keys are that the rail has a slot to keep it rotating. The other is the backing plate. Notice one side is slightly thinner than the other. This is to make clearance for the forend nut. Then drill and tap it. The mount itself is a Magpul M-lock, and all I did was mill the M-lock nubs off the back. A file would do just as good. If you can't do all that, an M-Lok forend is pretty good, but I've get to see one that allows you to mount it nice and tight to the barrel like I prefer. These pictures show the forend at 90 degrees. The next pictures show it at about 1 o clock, which is much better.





    Next up is the sights I've been trying. These are flip down sights from NECG sights. These are the only sights I could get my hands on that when flipped down are below the line of sight completely. There are two problems with this. #1, I couldn't find a gunsmith willing to mill a slot deep enough. Before anyone panics, Mossberg for decades have sold "slugster" barrels with a Lyman flip sight dovetailed about .090" deep, right over the chamber. Unfortunately the gunsmith I took it to that agreed, got scared, and only did it about .050" deep, and it didn't have enough grab to hold the sight. It was then soldered in place, which worked great. The other problem is they have a small leaf spring that is what holds the blade up. It's just a small area, and only needs maybe .010" of clearance to work. Well I had him install it so the sight flips back, like most guns. What I then found is that many times with heavy recoiling rounds the sight would start to flip forward. The proper way to mount flip sighs on a heavy recoiling gun is so it flips forward, so recoil does not effect it. Well due to that spring, I couldn't simply flip the sight around. I would also need to take it back to a gunsmith to mill another recess. The only other sight I ever found that might work is made by Benelli. It is an even better sight too, since it is a small dovetail, and it is height adjustable. Benelli sells it on one of their 3 gun models, and it flips down level with the vent rib. It is sweet. Unfortunately they only sell that gun in Europe, and they flat out refused to sell me the rear sight. First is an unfished NECG sight sitting in the dovetail of my 590. My original one was shaped more appropriately, and I filed a wide V into it like a dangerous game rifle express sight. Second is the Benelli flip sight I REALLY want to get my hands on.





    Here's some close ups of how my flashlight works. It is a decent setup. I may try a separate switch for the light. This works, but during rapid fire, it isn't completely natural to keep your thumb on that momentary switch. I like the high flashlight mount, which lights up the bead. Great for night time coyotes.





    Now I've been shooting this with the original 20" barrel, which is great. I had it threaded for Tru choke. My advice is go with a Rem choke. This next picture is it with a 24" barrel I found for it. It doesn't have a bayonet lug, but I don't use tactical slings anyway. As I said, this is a very hunting orientated gun, and I'm considering going to this 24". It makes a surprising difference in muzzle blast, and I just seem to like the feel of it for shooting, especially on clays. There so little difference between the 20" and 24", it's hard to choose.



    One last tid bit, if keeping this by your bed, be aware of what can get into the muzzle. For a long time I kept mine muzzle up. That is until I got attic flies really bad. A lot of them ended up down the barrel. Good thing I did not shoot, it would have been a barrel obstruction for sure. 3"+ of nothing but dead flies. I now keep mine muzzle down, and a bit of tape over the muzzle would not hurt either.

  20. #20
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    Excellent Post Mega!

    OK moving right along,,,

    What I've done with my shotguns goes way beyond Gun Work and Mods and extends deeply into the ammunition. Most of my Ammo loading has been concentrated in Reloading Birdshot for Clays Shooting (different guns) and loading various types of slugs for use in both Smooth Bore Barrels and Rifled Barrels. We have discussed a lot of this on the "Casting and Reloading for Shotguns" forum above.

    I have several slugs that I shoot a lot of.

    1. The 1 oz. Lee Drive Key Slug which I cast myself.
    2. The Lyman 525 Sabot Slug which looks like a Giant Air Gun Pellet. I cast myself
    3. Round Balls which are loaded into Regular Trap Loads, by replacing the shot. All cast myself.

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    4. STI Sabot Slugs which have proven to produce exceptional accuracy.

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    5. A Non Toxic version of the STI Sabot Slug certified in CA for Hunting. (Left)

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    6. Various Russian designed slugs which can be heavy and useful for big stuff.

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    7.Numerous Factory Loaded Slugs from Federal, Brenneke and Lightfield.

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    8. Italian Factory Made Slugs from BPI

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    Here's a Turkish made slug that duplicates Brenneke's KO slug

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    This has been going on for the last 5 years, and I have had some success, and I have also learned a bunch about loading slugs and how to make them shoot. Pretty much all of them have certain uses, like the Lee Slugs and Pumpkin Balls which are used primarily for practice and 3 Gun Shoots in Smooth Bore Barrels. Others for hunting, and some for SD/HD

    More to come:

    Randy
    Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 04-23-2022 at 06:54 PM.
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check