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Thread: Alignment pin does not fit

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Alignment pin does not fit

    I recently acquired an old Ideal mold which is in good shape except when the two halves are put together one pin does not go into the corresponding hole. I have not had this happen before and was wondering if there are normal things to look for or to do to fix this.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Look for a burr or raised edge on the hole where the chamfer meets the dia. Also burrs where the radius on the pin meets the full dia.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Murphy's Avatar
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    Burred alignment holes can be filed smooth again with care. Another thing to look for, is the alignment pin itself. On a few occasions I've had this same issue. I removed the mold half with the pin's and checked to see if the pin itself may have been pushed back into the hole a bit. My remedy was to use a flat punch that fits the hole and slowly tap the pin back in deeper. Good luck!

    Murphy
    If I should depart this life while defending those who cannot defend themselves, then I have died the most honorable of deaths. Marc R. Murphy '2006'.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks!

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
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    How much force should it take to drive those pins? Been casting since 2008 and never had a problem, now my near-new Lyman is acting up. This is probably the fifth time I've used it.
    Only the round-nose portion should be exposed in order to prevent binding. In this case the pins have moved out so about .050" of the straight shank is exposed. Pressing or tapping them in with a brass punch should have been easy but they're not moving and I don't want to deform the noses.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    The ones I've moved in iron blocks take a fairly heavy tap to the driving punch with a three pound hammer to move. You also need the mold half sitting on a solid surface.

    Robert

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Pushing a pin in can be done with a padded vise and closing it slowly. some brass or copper jaws wont marr. Driving out drill a hole in a piece of flat bar thicker than the pin protrudes and slightly larger in dia.. Sit this on a heavy bench and the block on it this gives a lot more support and makes a much steadier set up.

    Getting it held so you can get a straight smooth push on the pin helps a lot.

    Copper jaws can be made from a piece of water pipe split it and flatten put the first in the vise and bend over the jaw then repeat with the second.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
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    Thanks.
    I ended up using the vise method. Sure made a heckuva 'pop' when the pins finally started to move.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check