I LIKE Ed's Red. It's one of the more valuable DIY items I've run across in the shooting world. But every time I see a re-post of the article, I see more and more typos and repeated sentence fragments in it. I made a living for a long time as a technical proof-reader, and the instincts die hard. I hope all concerned will forgive me for cleaning the article a bit, and (I hope) making it a bit less challenging to read. Info like this is too valuable to be obscured by things we don't need in it.
Ed's Red" - - Revisited By C.E., "Ed" Harris
Since I mixed my first "Ed's Red" (ER) bore cleaner five years ago, hundreds of users have told me that they find it as effective as commercial products. This cleaner has actions similar to military rifle bore-cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. It is highly effective for removing plastic fouling from shotgun bores, caked carbon in semi-automatic rifles or pistols, or leading in revolvers. "ER" is not a "decoppering" solution for fast removal of heavy jacket fouling, but because it is more effective in removal of caked carbon and primer residues than most other cleaners, metal fouling is reduced when "ER" is used.
I researched the subject rather thoroughly and determined there was no technical reason why an effective firearm bore cleaner couldn't be mixed using common hardware store ingredients. The resulting cleaner is safe, effective, inexpensive, provides excellent corrosion protection and adequate residual lubrication. Routine oiling after cleaning is unnecessary except for storage exceeding 1 year, or in harsh environments, such as salt air exposure.
The formula is adapted from Hatcher's "Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18," but substitutes equivalent modern materials. Hatcher's recipe called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratt’s Astral Oil and sperm whale oil, and (optionally) 200 grams (7-8 oz.) anhydrous lanolin per liter (gallon?) into the cleaner.
Discussion of the ingredients in ER is helpful to understand the properties of the cleaner and how it works. Pratt’s Astral Oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. Today one asks for "K1" kerosene of the type sold for use in indoor space heaters.
An less expensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. Before 1950, most ATF's were sperm whale oil-based. In WWII, sperm whale oil was mostly unavailable, so highly refined, de-waxed, hydro-finished petroleum oils, with excellent thermal stability, were developed. When antioxidants were added to prevent gumming these worked well in precision instruments.
With the high demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm whale oil was impractical for ATF production in the quantities needed, so wartime expedients were mass produced. ATFs have been continually improved over the years. The additives contained in Dexron include detergents or other surfactants which are very suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner, lubricant and preservative.
Hatcher's Frankford Arsenal No. 18 used gum spirits of turpentine, but turpentine is both expensive and highly flammable, so I chose to omit it. Much safer and less expensive are "aliphatic mineral spirits," which are straight-chain organic solvents, rather than benzene and cycloalkanes, common to "aromatics," such as naptha or "lighter fluid." Sometimes called "safety solvent," aliphatic mineral spirits are used for thinning oil-based paint, as automotive parts cleaner and are commonly sold under the names "odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".
Acetone is included to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for caked smokeless powder residues. Because acetone readily evaporates and the fumes are harmful in high concentrations, its omission is recommended, if the cleaner will be used indoors, in soak tanks or in enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation. Containers should be kept tightly closed when not in use. ER is still effective without acetone, but not as "fast-acting."
"Ed's Red" does not chemically dissolve copper fouling in rifle bores, but it does a better job of removing carbon and primer residue than most other cleaners. Many users have told me that frequent and exclusive use of "ER" reduces copper deposits, because it removes old, impacted powder fouling left behind by other cleaners. This reduces abrasion and adhesion of jacket metal to the bore, leaving a cleaner surface condition which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience indicates that "ER" will remove metal fouling in bores if it is left to "soak," for a few days so the surfactants may do their job, and followed by a repeat cleaning. One simply needs patience.
Addition of lanolin to ER is optional. The cleaner works perfectly well and gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication without it. Inclusion of lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, increases its lubricity and film strength and improves corrosion protection if firearms, tools or equipment are routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, or corrosive atmospheres.
Lanolin should be included if one plans to use the cleaner as a protectant for long-term storage or as a "flush" after water-cleaning of black powder firearms or any fired with military chlorate primers. Lanolin has a high affinity for water and readily emulsifies so that the bore can be wiped of residual moisture, leaving a protective film. If one inspects their guns and wipes them down twice yearly, the lanolin may be omitted at the savings of many dollars per gallon.
At current retail prices one may buy all the ingredients to mix ER, without the lanolin, for about $25 per gallon. I urge you to mix some. I am confident it will work as well for you as it does for me and hundreds of users who got the "recipe" on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
*1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
*1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1.
*1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits CAS #64741-49-9, "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
*1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
*(Optional) 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon. OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from drug store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, or chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, as the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty ATF container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If incorporating the lanolin into the mixture, melt it carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin into the larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. Diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil is recommended, and may be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix. Label and safety warnings follow:
FIREARM BORE CLEANER
CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE -- HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED -- KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
Contents: petroleum distillates, surfactants, organometallic antioxidants, acetone, lanolin.
1. Flammable mixture, keep away from heat, sparks or flame.
2. FIRST AID: If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call a physician immediately. In case of eye contact, immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.
3. Use in adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. Reports have associated repeated, prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:
1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off. Do not pull it back into the bore.
2. Wet a second patch, and start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward, in 4-5" strokes, gradually advancing until the patch emerges from the muzzle. Wait approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak and improve its action.
3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled service rifles, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.
4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling back through the bore. If one is finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average conditions.
5. If lanolin is included in the mixture, it protects firearms from rust for up to two years, even in humid environments. (For longer storage, use Lee Liquid Alox or Cosmolene). "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.
6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing. Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, but acetone is harmful to most wood finishes.
7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.
8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and shots and/or are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first, to break up heavy deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART when using chlorate-primed ammunition, to assure all corrosive residue removal.
This "Recipe" has been placed in the public domain, and may be freely distributed provided that it is done so in its entirety with all current revisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that proper attribution is given to the author.
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Originally Posted by Outpost75
