Beginning in BPCR

[semtav]

so this is homemade - I have not had opportunity to shoot a time event yet (one coming up in August) - cant see good enough to properly line up those little squinchy markings no matter how precisely they are machined - if I tried it would mean shooting glasses off, readers on, adjust sight, change glasses back etc. gonna blow my time away!
]

One option is to get glasses with the largest bifocal (bottom lense)they will make you. Even if you don't like bifocals. You only use the very top of your glasses for shooting. Or look under the glasses if you don't need close up lenses.
Like Kenny said, you think you can keep track of your turns but you will get so lost with switching winds you'll wonder how you even got to the range.

MVA are top of the line, but I switched to Hoke cause I can read them better. Just personal preference.



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[Keith Andersen]

Too bad Mr Wasserburger can't share his considerable knowledge without being rude or insulting. Sad indeed.

Dave

He is that for sure Dave.
You don't want your young kids on line close enough that they can hear him.
I had to pull the sticks and move the kids from the line at the Quigley Match.

But getting back to the subject,
I use the Browning BPCR with the Browning sights on the .40-65 and on my .45-90 Browning it has the MVA. Both combinations are a good way to go.

Keith

[Kenny Wasserburger]

He is that for sure Dave.
You don't want your young kids on line close enough that they can hear him.
I had to pull the sticks and move the kids from the line at the Quigley Match.

But getting back to the subject,
I use the Browning BPCR with the Browning sights on the .40-65 and on my .45-90 Browning it has the MVA. Both combinations are a good way to go.

Keith

Just exactly when was that? Been many a year, since I shot the Quigley.

Kenny W.

[indian joe]

Wow, first of all the lines you say aren’t necessarily allow precise and repeatable sight settings that can be recorded for reference from one day to the next. Or to record differences in loads elevation settings. Knowing how much exactly the difference in a head wind condition vrs a tail wind or even a hard side wind.

Didnt say the markings arent necessary - just cant see em when there is a lot (proly mostly been seein sights you say are junk anyway) I do have a few scribed for my pet load zero marking so I can count any range from there - a start is all. 600yards is maximum range here - never gonna shoot a serious match past that
So if you were doin this what is the bare minimum distance you would want a mark on the sight staff or crossslide (crossslide more important - and count between) 1MOA? 2MOA? 5MOA? ---- what could you work with as least best that would still get it done.
I hold my sh#t together better than most blokes on the firing line but I do get the confusion under pressure issue - I get that ok!

Another example is a total reversal in wind, say a hard left to right that requires 7 MOA of left wind. Then reversed to a 3 or 4 o’clock right to left that required going to mechanical or it should also be your no wind Zero. Set up before the match that little line you think isn’t necessary. You now need 5 MOA right of that. Your no wind zero especially if you’re shootings 1000 yards needs to be set to compensate the 3 MOA spin drift correction.
I have experienced weather (and changes) on the high plains a couple times - believe our shooting conditions are a lot kinder than your dry country conditions in general

I can go on, with the necessary requirements of a precise set of markings for these issues.
yeah if they are there the gotta be precise and easily legible

You have obviously never competed in any kind of real distance competition. Correct! proly never going to in your language - 500 - 600 yards 2 - 3 times a year is all will happen - doesnt mean I want to come last when I line up tho!

Thinking those little lines, aren’t necessary, you suffer from something called hubris, and you have a real bad case of it.
Ya misinterpreted there - never said aint necessary - asked tell me why they are

With reference marks your homemade tool, which looks well done might be serviceable. Without any such, you will have very difficult issues in the heat of competition.
So ok its not an easy deal making those marks - again tell me bare minimum that will work for cross slide and elevation I have good accurate 100yard zero on both at the moment

Honestly, and with no malice intended, you haven’t a clue, what your handicapped with this setup.
none took thanks for the reply
KW

......

[indian joe]

Too bad Mr Wasserburger can't share his considerable knowledge without being rude or insulting. Sad indeed.

Dave

Dave
he didnt have to reply - I can take the attitude (got one of those meself) - so long as he is offering up something useful its all good - and hes right on most counts, I have shot a lot over the years and done good at it too but I am raw beginner at long range - the few events I have shot managed to come in about halfway up the field (small, inexperienced fields here) halfway is too close to the bottom for me to be satisfied with.

[Don McDowell]

Joe 2 minute marks would suffice on both the windage and elevation. If you could break them down smaller would be good.
Don't know if you have anything like the Decot shooting glasses available to you , but you can get non prescriptive lenses with the bifocal in the lower corner of the lenses, it sure helps to be able to look down at the sight and see those itty bitty marks.

[indian joe]

One option is to get glasses with the largest bifocal (bottom lense)they will make you. Even if you don't like bifocals. You only use the very top of your glasses for shooting. Or look under the glasses if you don't need close up lenses.
Like Kenny said, you think you can keep track of your turns but you will get so lost with switching winds you'll wonder how you even got to the range.

MVA are top of the line, but I switched to Hoke cause I can read them better. Just personal preference.



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Bifocals might help but I hate the things with a passion - downright dangerous for me to wear any kind of closeups moving around buildings and machinery - ladders , steps and such - not goin there (yet anyway).

[indian joe]

Joe 2 minute marks would suffice on both the windage and elevation. If you could break them down smaller would be good.
Don't know if you have anything like the Decot shooting glasses available to you , but you can get non prescriptive lenses with the bifocal in the lower corner of the lenses, it sure helps to be able to look down at the sight and see those itty bitty marks.

Don
thanks. 2MOA I can do accurately and I could see those ok without foolin around with glasses on and off
I need a bit of magnification now to shoot (and drive) eyes have always been very light sensitive - so daylight driving without glasses is still ok - around dusk in town I am a menace to all and sundry - even with glasses its hard - at night ok - black outside and good lights I can go all night

[semtav]

Bifocals might help but I hate the things with a passion - downright dangerous for me to wear any kind of closeups moving around buildings and machinery - ladders , steps and such - not goin there (yet anyway).

I was only thinking of when you are shooting. I won't even wear my glasses anytime other than shooting or flying.

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[Don McDowell]

Joe the no line bifocals aren't much of a problem for everyday stuff, but they don't work worth a flip for shooting.

[Gunlaker]

Joe, whatever marks you end up with on your sight, you'll want to be able to make corrections as small as 1/2 minute.

Even if I'm hitting close to center I'll often make 1/2 minute corrections. For instance in silhouette if we make 3 hits in the upper body of the ram I'll often drop it 1/2 minute. Same with target shooting. No point being happy with being high in the 10 ring when the x is sitting just below it .

Not that these rifles are capable of consistent 1/2 minute accuracy but you want to be able to tune up where the center of the group is.

Chris.

[indian joe]

Joe, whatever marks you end up with on your sight, you'll want to be able to make corrections as small as 1/2 minute.

Even if I'm hitting close to center I'll often make 1/2 minute corrections. For instance in silhouette if we make 3 hits in the upper body of the ram I'll often drop it 1/2 minute. Same with target shooting. No point being happy with being high in the 10 ring when the x is sitting just below it .

Not that these rifles are capable of consistent 1/2 minute accuracy but you want to be able to tune up where the center of the group is.

Chris.

Chris - I reckon I can do those small corrections off my knob marks - I have quarter turns on the elevation and eighth on the windage (a whisker over half MOA on the vertical and 0.4MOA windage) with a deep notch on each for full turn - If I do Dons 2MOA marks and do em right I reckon this will work .
Getting lost on big sharp moves like KW flagged had not occurred to me - two reasons - have not shot timed event - plus I think our shooting conditions are way kinder as far as radical wind goes - yep each range has its own tricks for sure (most are in hilly country and thats always a problem even in light winds) but we dont get the drastic changes like any of you fellers that shoot along the east side of the range and out a ways. Have seen that a couple of times - blizzard in the Nebraska sandhills in 2005 dropped 53 degrees temp from 9am to 5pm, snowdrifts 15 feet deep the next morning, another blow I missed while I was driving back from the east turned 1000centre pivots over in the state - we dont get that kind of thing here (not yet anyway)

[Gunlaker]

Getting lost is easy if you don't have things set up right. The way around it having the sights set up for dead wind zero ( changes with increasing distance so it's not constant ), and always knowing how much windage you have on the gun for each shot.

You are right about hilly terrain. I'm traveling up to our closest silhouette range in a couple of days. It's got complex terrain. Often a very strange wind condition comes up on sunny days, I think rotating winds through the middle of the range as far as I can tell, and I've yet to see anyone figure it out when it gets nasty.

Chris.

[Tazman1602]

Dang, I thought hubris was something you spread on crackers…….

Art

[Kenny Wasserburger]

He is that for sure Dave.
You don't want your young kids on line close enough that they can hear him.
I had to pull the sticks and move the kids from the line at the Quigley Match.

But getting back to the subject,
I use the Browning BPCR with the Browning sights on the .40-65 and on my .45-90 Browning it has the MVA. Both combinations are a good way to go.

Keith

I just checked my shooting diary. Last time I shot the Quigley was 2007. Long before you ever showed up I believe.

This year I was there the morning of the first day, picking up powder. Approximately 4 hours while the shooting was going on. First time in 15 years.

You’re a lier sir, or you got me confused with someone else.

Kenny Wasserburger

[bandanaman]

If you dont mind tellin ---what was it about the pedersoli sight ?

On my rifle I was pretty well maxed out for 500 M shots with the mid range sight . You had to loosen the eye cup for both windage and elevation adjustments and besides being limited I found those difficult to read where as the elevation was extremely easy as it has the individual minutes numbered which I did like a lot.[no counting]

[bandanaman]

On another note my Pedersoli breaks a firing pin every 3 years or so. I will have to check my log books to see if there is a pattern for how many rounds may have gone through the rifle. I thought possibly the first failed due to pilot error at first with not having the gun at half cock here and there while I was learning and getting familiar with the rifle. I went through this just this last week and opted to change the firing pin spring as well. It was nice to have a spare as it is no big deal to change. I have heard it is not uncommon for the pins to break but some fellows have told me it has never ever happened to them. I will likely order 3 more this week strictly for peace of mind. Curious to know if others have had to replace these parts in their rifles in general or maybe a weak point for Pedersoli ????

[bandanaman]

Joe the no line bifocals aren't much of a problem for everyday stuff, but they don't work worth a flip for shooting.

My Progressive lens do not work well for me for shooting either, driving YES shooting NO. Even walking on uneven ground in the bush I look like a drunken monkey. On the shooting line I raise my regular glasses up and slip my readers on to do sight adjustments[my bandana keeps them clean from hair oil]. I have only once as yet not got off a complete timed round. One of the first things I was told besides treating each shot as your first shot is that any hit is better than 3 misses and to take what ever time it takes.

[indian joe]

On my rifle I was pretty well maxed out for 500 M shots with the mid range sight . You had to loosen the eye cup for both windage and elevation adjustments and besides being limited I found those difficult to read where as the elevation was extremely easy as it has the individual minutes numbered which I did like a lot.[no counting]

So you had their Creedmoor sight not the Soule?

I started with their cheap non windage tang sight - made a windage adjustable front sight from the screw adjuster off a 310 martini rear - still have that on my Sharps - I use the front adjustment so I can get the rear cross slide dead centre setting on a calm day - I made the Soule style sight a couple years ago - made three of those - took some work at the time . I just looked at the Pedersoli website, AU$540 for their Soule sight, no idea what an MVA would cost downunder but substantially more than that !

[bandanaman]

Yes you're correct. The Universal Middle Range Creedmoor sight USA 465.I can't access MVA's site at the moment but if I recall the Long range Buffalo Soule 103 and base $485.00,knurled screw[if you want] $36.00,Hadley eyecup $113.00 =$634.00 USD=$879.49 AUD plus Shipping.....Our Canadian dollar isn't much stronger than AUD but I had over $750.00 CDN invested but shipping was only $12.95 USD [to an American address] just across the border and I bought the eyecup used for $50.00 CDN .I had to pay duty at the border which was about $70.00.So $820.00 thereabouts ....I was working then, now on a fixed income I may not have been as eager !!!!!!I am glad however I have it and don't regret having spent it.....