RepackboxLoad DataMidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading Everything
Titan ReloadingLee PrecisionWidenersRotoMetals2
Inline Fabrication
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 60 of 60

Thread: Lyman 525 slugs

  1. #41
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    That is an interesting thought on the grip, but I'm not sure how I could prove it. Maybe glue some nitro cards into the wad so there can be no slipping?

    These are extreme meplat slugs, but they are a stabile design. They will fly really good from a smooth bore, so spin is not needed but it always helps. I've been shooting these at both 50 and 100 yards with the Benelli. I'm finding if it keyholes, it will do so right out of the muzzle. Why I can't say, but by not using that nitro card it no longer happens. That's all I can say for sure. The ones that fly stabile, seem to be stabile for long range. I'll be doing some 200+ yard shooting at some point this winter to really test them.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master phaessler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    724
    Attachment 306642

    Tried two different loads and I think my first choice is pretty evident.
    75yds / mossberg 500 / Lyman 525 slug

  3. #43
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    They all look good with 2 shot groups.

  4. #44
    Boolit Buddy Kylongrifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Appalachia(Eastern,Kentucky)
    Posts
    116
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	slug.jpg 
Views:	27 
Size:	63.9 KB 
ID:	306647
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	slug2.jpg 
Views:	25 
Size:	58.7 KB 
ID:	306648
    mossberg 500, rifled barrel 57 yards, lyman 525. cheddite hull, trapmaster wad over 34gr longshot wads in good shape Good start.. My 1100 with rifled paradox slug barrel was shooting similar groups with a load in a AA hull. 30gr of WSF with a WAA12R wad. Accuracy was just as good but pedals sheared, no big deal..

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    That looks like decent accuracy from a good working load. What are you using for alloy? Are you filling the bases?

  6. #46
    Boolit Buddy Kylongrifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Appalachia(Eastern,Kentucky)
    Posts
    116
    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    That looks like decent accuracy from a good working load. What are you using for alloy? Are you filling the bases?
    pure lead there, i just shot some WW slugs with about the same group size. Nothing in the base or under it. just slug set in wad cup.. I wanted to start bare and go from there..

  7. #47
    Boolit Master phaessler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    724
    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    They all look good with 2 shot groups.
    Only takes one....
    Will make more and confirm my choice, learned a long time ago, start small if it shows no promise after 2, no sense making more.

  8. #48
    Boolit Master Cap'n Morgan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    1,458
    Quote Originally Posted by phaessler View Post
    Only takes one....
    Will make more and confirm my choice, learned a long time ago, start small if it shows no promise after 2, no sense making more.
    Exactly! A good 2 shot group could be a fluke, a bad 2 shot group... not so much. Then it's back to the drawing board.
    Cap'n Morgan

  9. #49
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    I have a slight mini update. We were shooting random stuff Sunday evening, as one does. Well one thing I shot was these Lyman 525 slugs into a log, which I then split with an axe to recover the slug. Here are some pictures of the slug. The nose is smashed bad, it was a hardwood log so no surprise. The skirt appears to be in decent shape and we can see some details from it. The biggest thing is that the hot glue stays easily in side the skirt. This was a shell that had been outside all weekend in single digit temps. It was fired from a rather hot load, and it smashed into a solid log. Despite all that the glue not only stayed in the base, it looks like it is a part of the slug. No separation in the slightest. I'm quite impressed. The second thing I notice I expected to see, and wanted to show. Notice the grooves in the skirt of that slug. Not only is there a small line, there is also a larger indent. The small line is from the slit in the wad. The indent is from the rib in the wad. That's what kind of stresses these wads deal with. When that slug hits the forcing cone it is being squeezed down so much that lead forms around the features in the wad, and it has to hold up to that kind of abuse to be accurate. It does kind of answer Cap'n Morgans question on if the slug was slipping in the wad with a nitro card. With this kind of engagement, I do not see any possible way that the slug is anything but firmly locked in to the wad and rifling.




  10. #50
    Boolit Master Cap'n Morgan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    1,458
    Indeed! No slipping there. Mystery remains unsolved for now...
    Cap'n Morgan

  11. #51
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2022
    Location
    Godzone country ,New Zealand
    Posts
    528
    OK couple of thoughts out of left field here...if you want tougher wads,use some designed for steel shot,but be aware internal capacity is narrower eg you cant stack 3 balls of #00 buck flat like normal lead wads...
    and has anyone tried a plastic wad backwards and attached to the slug itself so it will work like fletchings on an arrow????or tail on a kite???
    I have always been led to believe ALL factory slug loadings HAVE to be made so are safe to be fired through a full choke barrel..to save lawsuits etc etc if some numpty does it and breaks something....
    another thing that jumped out at me reading through posts..you guys are cutting off base of the wads..thats a cushion to help with initial shove the charge gives the payload.it MIGHT be part of the answer as to why you are getting higher than expected recoil and deformation of payload,that tiny bit of cushion/delay might help..maybe.

  12. #52
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2022
    Location
    Godzone country ,New Zealand
    Posts
    528
    another point when talking about choke tightness that many folks dont realise is that the diameter of the main body of the barrel makes a HUGE difference to the amount of choke/degree of choke even if the hole in the end is the same size.
    take a bakail single barrel shotgun and cut off the choke...yeah 3" should do it right?? except your std choke guage will still be reading just under 1/4 choke...because the barrel is tighter to begin with..why folks believe the full choke guns are really tight,the hole in the end is smaller BUT the amount the barrel narrows down is percentage wise the same...
    a lot of modern over bored .12ga are closer to what a .10ga should measure
    my point being not all barrels are equal and what works in one might be way tighter in another..or way looser...

  13. #53
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    Umm... I think you should read post #1 at least

  14. #54
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Castlegar, B.C., Canada
    Posts
    7,933
    msm... I may have missed it but what hot melt glue are you using?

    Even with that conical cavity you are not getting glue separation.

    I have used high strength hot melt glue and find that unless slugs are preheated that often the glue will fully fill out the cavity but not bond to the lead... even with Lee Drive Key slugs which have lots of surface to bond to.

    Some cast tailwads pull right out easily. I always run a screw into HB slugs or burr the drive key on Lee slugs to make sure the glue has something to grip.

    I have not tried regular hot melt glue or craft glue.

    Thanks,
    Longbow

  15. #55
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2022
    Location
    Godzone country ,New Zealand
    Posts
    528
    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    Umm... I think you should read post #1 at least
    I read majority of thread at midnight..... Im guessing I missed that wee titbit...did go back and see a hot melt rear end on slugs...surely it must work somewhat like a shuttlecock??? and prevent tumbling if the lighter rear section has enough air resistance...would silicon,along the lines of roof n gutter/sellies all clear work better??? being slightly softer but oh so sticky when wet...
    lots to experiment with...over here shotgun solids are not often used...some big forestry companies wont allow centrefire rifles so they used there but normally as very short range weapon for shooting bailed pigs...a round sinker that will drop into wad will work for that job..as will a glass marble,my Father did this back in bad old days when $$$ was tight.
    not good for eating purpose as glass a bit hard to find to remove....
    back in 90s remington put out a magazine..in that was photos of 50 shot group shot on bench at hundred yards with rifled .12ga.....a big ragged hole that always stuck in my mind as to how good saboted loads could be.

  16. #56
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post
    msm... I may have missed it but what hot melt glue are you using?

    Even with that conical cavity you are not getting glue separation.

    I have used high strength hot melt glue and find that unless slugs are preheated that often the glue will fully fill out the cavity but not bond to the lead... even with Lee Drive Key slugs which have lots of surface to bond to.

    Some cast tailwads pull right out easily. I always run a screw into HB slugs or burr the drive key on Lee slugs to make sure the glue has something to grip.

    I have not tried regular hot melt glue or craft glue.

    Thanks,
    Longbow
    To be honest I don't remember. I bought a bulk pack of hot glue sticks, possibly from Amazon. They say made in USA on the stick for whatever that is worth. I don't see a brand listed anywhere on them, and the box they came in is gone.
    Edit: A quick search shows they are likely Surebonder brand.

    I think I went into detail earlier in the thread the best methods I've found for doing the glue. I don't pre-heat the slugs, but when I fill them the slugs get warm. The way that pictured slug was prepared was cast, cooled about a day, then weight sorted. I then took my hot glue gun, filled the base over full, as much as I could get without it spilling. I then let them cool. The next day I cut the glue with a sharp razor knife flush with the base of the slug Hogtamer style. The only other thing I did do when loading these is I tumbled the slugs lightly in mica dust just in the thought that I wanted to get rid of any tackiness of the glue. I wanted the sabot to separate as cleanly as possible.

    The results speak for themselves. I've also recovered a few others in the past, including one from a black bear. I see no reason to change what I'm doing at all.

  17. #57
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Castlegar, B.C., Canada
    Posts
    7,933
    I'm wondering because the high strength glue I've been using definitely doesn't bond to the lead like the glue you are using.

    It is quite hard almost like polyethylene plastic when it is at room temperature.

    The regular hot melt glue seems more flexible/rubbery.

    I figured the high strength stuff was the way to go and it is tough stuff but doesn't stick like what you are using.

    No, not suggesting you change what you are using... I should change what I am using!

    Its those little details that can make the difference!

    Thanks.

    Longbow

  18. #58
    Boolit Master phaessler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    724
    Been using the Surebonder DT-2010 for as long as I have been filling slugs.... It is a little rubbery, but same practice, fill emm high, let it cool, trim it off flush.
    Attachment 306995

    Scored a full bag of Genuine Win AA Red wads from a guy at a yard sale last Sunday...wife couldnt belive I spotted the wads as we drove by....

  19. #59
    Boolit Master phaessler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    724
    Quote Originally Posted by Cap'n Morgan View Post
    Exactly! A good 2 shot group could be a fluke, a bad 2 shot group... not so much. Then it's back to the drawing board.
    Took my Mossberg apart to change the furnitureAttachment 306997Attachment 306998Attachment 306999Attachment 307000 Hydrodipping was a new experience for sure

    ...and figured I would reshoot it to be sure Im still on....couldnt get to the 75yds line, trees are down on the range and wasnt enough time to play that game.
    50yd results tell a story....needed to adjust my POI a wee bit....
    Attachment 306996

  20. #60
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2022
    Location
    Godzone country ,New Zealand
    Posts
    528
    nice....

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check