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Thread: Cleaning powder coat out of barrel.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
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    Sounds like multiple problems. I would suggest trying to get back to square one with a clean bore.
    Plug the chamber with a rubber plug then fill the barrel completely with Kroll Oil and leave it set for 24 hours. This will usually get under all fouling allowing it to be brushed out. Next slug the bore! so you know what you have before trying to load for it.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Yes the grove diameter at chamber is 0.428-0.4285"
    It has thin lands and wide grooves.

    I did find another supplier and he sold me a sample pack of 100 240 grn bb swc to try.
    They have the hard clear baked on appearance and mic pretty well spot on at 0.430"
    Hopefully they may make it out the barrel without smears.
    If not I can lube them and try.

    I might even cast a lap and run a soup of oil and grit up and down the bore till my arms fall off.

    I think I should buy the gun off him and let him borrow it every now and again.
    That way my efforts might be worth it.
    Ha.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by kungfustyle View Post
    Slug the barrel, my Rossi is at .432 and a was a pita till I got the correct sizing die and mold for it. https://www.buffaloarms.com/ has specialized sizing die or you can get a .430 from lee and hone it out. NOE is another option.
    with no intention to derail the OP, my 24” SS Rossi slugs at .433”. Appropriately sized bullets loaded in brass will not pass through/between the gates rendering my lever action a single shot rifle. It is a royal pain trying too get a too fat cartridge out of the action. Unfortunately I have resigned my Rossi to be a jacketed only rifle. I do find the .431” jacketed bullets from Everglades Ammo do well, when they are available.

    Not to trash Rossi, my 24” Blued 357 consistently produces less than 1.5” groups at 100 yards with a tang peep and Globe front.
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Update
    The 44 mag has been fired with some jacketed factory and it started off grouping then went south quickly.

    I thought it was supposed to get rid of leading.
    Apparently not.
    After cleaning and leaving a few days he got it out and it had like rust in the barrel.

    I’ve got it here and have used brass "choir boy" on a brass brush to get some of it out.
    I cast a lap and it was hard to work it near the chamber.
    Took a while and a bit of work but I think the chamber end is clean now.
    A tight patch pushed through seems pretty constant.
    There is still what looks like lead in the corners of the rifling lands.
    The groove diameter looks clean and shiny but the bore looks like it had antimony wash in it.
    The chamber appears to be just a simple very short. Taper to the bore and grey in colour.
    Not shiny at all . The the bore or top of the lands look the same and are dull.
    The groove diameter section is bright and shiny thou.

    What do do recommend?

    Cast a Lapp and see if I can work it a little smoother?
    Rub some polish on a bullet or mix with lube and fire a few shots?

    At least the front of the bore now seems clearer and the same diameter as the rest of the barrel and not choked up full of lead.

    I have some Ed’s red I could soak it in for a day if it may help.
    Not back to original yet.

    Barra

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Since there is not much left then might try something like the Shooter's Choice lead remover or just keep scrubbing at it with a bore brush. Ed's Red is not meant to remove lead (or copper) deposits, but, it does really well on powder fouling.

    If you are careful you could just make a lap and polish the bore. That would also help in reducing future fouling, copper or lead. But, it is a touchy process. An alternative is fire lapping. Both can ruin a barrel if done wrong.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    The Laser cast .431 240 grain SWC's cast from Oregon Trail, and my Lee TL 430 240 grain SWC's both do fine in my Rossi R92 44 Magnum.
    Britons shall never be slaves.

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    HRBC offers a high performance dry lubrication on all of our projectiles.
    Who knows what that stuff is - moly or about anything. IF it were PC IMHO they would state so.
    Whatever!

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy

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    I am not an expert on rifle barrels but i have many years shooting them. Since the shooting of jacketed boolits shot well and the started spreading them around i would think the this barrel is a little rough. This would explane the fouling of all things put through it. You might consider lapping the barrel as Greg stated. Sorry bo be so late in sending my thoughts.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master prickett's Avatar
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    If he went from 1" groups to 6-8" groups, one of two things is happening: a) The boolit alloy is too soft b) The boolit is cast to small

    I've experienced both, so I know Even if you slug the barrel, I've found you may need to increase the boolit diameter more than the slug would tell you.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks fellas.
    I think I have a plan to go with.
    Please pipe in if you think of something I’ve missed.
    I haven’t got access to kroll oil

    Use the "bore tech" stuff he has.(have smelly shooters choice as well)
    Supposed to clean lead and copper fouling out.
    Patch and wait then patch out re apply till it seams good.

    Clean and patch with Ed’s red to get rid of the bore tech

    Then get in with the brass choir boy.

    Rinse and repeat.

    If I can get it back to clean I can then cast a lap and smooth it up a ‘little".

    Slug bore.

    Go from there.

    Shoot ‘n’ see.

    Breaking in barrel.


    Thanks
    Bruce
    Last edited by barrabruce; 04-12-2022 at 08:30 PM.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Well been busy.
    A very light lapping has been done.
    I tightened the buttstock to the action.
    Re-set the fore-end.
    The barrel is clean as a whistle ready to torment me again.

    A picture of the chamber cast is interesting.
    I have found the chamber has been cut a little deep so it could use the widest rims ever to leave a factory.
    By my calculations it’s a little long as well and there is 2 thou clearance between barrel and standing breach.
    There it a taper from the outside of the case/chamber mouth diameter and no free bore.

    A loaded case which has been seated by the closing of the gun.
    You can see the bullet is hanging is space but supported by the case neck at the rear and where it aligns into the throat or forcing cone.
    At least these are coated bullets althou I doubt a bevel base is worth more than 15 yards of accuracy potential.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Should I seat the bullet back into the case to the crimp groove or leave it long?

    Suggestions?

    If you where to buy a mold for this is there one which may seat in the case and provide better seating and fit?

    Thanks

    Ps: I hope to lead up the barrel Sunday at the range and try shoot a few Easter Wabbits as well.
    Last edited by barrabruce; 04-14-2022 at 01:54 AM.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    Well took the beasty out to day and shot it.

    First 4 rounds 1" sticky dot and 1 3/4" tape
    50yrds
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sighted it in more and shot some.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then after about 20 rounds , it opened up some so I ran a patch and scrubber through it and it came back into line again.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I think it’s minute of coke can at 50yrds at present.(2")
    Prolly work something from here on in.
    I think It’s cured or near enough and the proper coated bullets work, after I clean the muck out.
    Thanks for the help and support.
    I think I’ll call this good and cured.

    Bruce
    Last edited by barrabruce; 04-16-2022 at 02:54 AM.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master brassrat's Avatar
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    Bloody good job

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check