RotoMetals2MidSouth Shooters SupplyWidenersReloading Everything
Titan ReloadingLee PrecisionInline FabricationRepackbox
Load Data
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 38 of 38

Thread: Marlin 1894s-41 debacle

  1. #21
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,833
    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    SNIP >>>

    I originally thought it was from a steel brush on a drill, but it’s very consistent and the full length of the barrel so now I think manufacturing defect. It does make a really disturbing sound when you run a brush through it. I hate that Marlin changed hands, before that had happened this would have been an easy warranty repair.
    While this is a long shot of epic proportions, I would contact Ruger/Marlin and explain the situation and just see what their response is.
    https://www.marlinfirearms.com/

    BTW, out of curiousity, Is this a JM Marlin from 1988-89 ?
    Or a Remlin from 2006?


    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    SNIP >>>

    It extracts starline brass beautifully, it fails to extract WW brass 8 times out of 10.
    I have a 41 Mag JM Marlin from 1988-89. The rifle had less than a box of ammo through it, when I got it. I had some FTE issues. While it's not mentioned in the link below, the majority that FTE was older worn W-W brass. Anyway, the problem was the barrel shank's extractor seat. Maybe have a look in your gun, to see if that was poorly machined also.

    https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ues-need-HELP-!
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Las Cruces, NM
    Posts
    4,535
    My Savage barrels had the same kind of look to them when new, but, probably not as deep. Seems to be common with button rifling and no lapping. One shoots less than 1/2MOA and the other is less than MOA. They both have thousands of rounds through them. The accuracy has stayed about the same but cleaning has gotten easier as they have 'smoothed' out the chatter marks.

    I'd go the fire lap route (if Ruger won't work with you) and see if it cleans up a bit. FWIW, I'd make a small jig and hand lap it first. Much more controllable and the whole barrel is worked on without overly bothering the throat.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,863
    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    While this is a long shot of epic proportions, I would contact Ruger/Marlin and explain the situation and just see what their response is.
    https://www.marlinfirearms.com/

    BTW, out of curiousity, Is this a JM Marlin from 1988-89 ?
    Or a Remlin from 2006?



    I have a 41 Mag JM Marlin from 1988-89. The rifle had less than a box of ammo through it, when I got it. I had some FTE issues. While it's not mentioned in the link below, the majority that FTE was older worn W-W brass. Anyway, the problem was the barrel shank's extractor seat. Maybe have a look in your gun, to see if that was poorly machined also.

    https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ues-need-HELP-!
    Thanks, it is a 1988 JM gun. I’ll go try to figure out what a barrel shank extractor seat is, can look at a 44, 45, and 357 and probably see if anything looks markedly different.

    Since yours is rarely fired, you ready to sell it?

  4. #24
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,833
    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    Thanks, it is a 1988 JM gun. I’ll go try to figure out what a barrel shank extractor seat is, can look at a 44, 45, and 357 and probably see if anything looks markedly different.

    Since yours is rarely fired, you ready to sell it?
    When the action is closed, the Extractor on the bolt goes into a angled slot that is machined in the barrel stub. Marlin didn't fully machine out that slot in my gun. I spend a bunch of time with riffler files to make that slot deeper. At the time, I had a similar vintage 44mag JM to compare it to.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Capital Region NY
    Posts
    680
    I picked up one in 44 in trade. I noticed the barrel was dirty and there was something visible halfway down the pipe. In cleaning it l noticed a bulge right at the dovetail slot for the magazine hanger. The dovetail was machined too deep and left the barrel thin at that spot. Dealer is OOB, so I have to eat it. I just put it away.

    Haven't shot it much so maybe there's hope here too....

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Boonesborough, KY
    Posts
    6,925
    The official line is that Ruger won't touch anything made by previous versions of Marlin. That being said, I guess you could ask them nicely if they can provide some sort of help since Ruger has a long history of being more helpful than they have to be. At worst they will just tell you no.

    https://www.marlinfirearms.com/s/customerService/
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,863
    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    When the action is closed, the Extractor on the bolt goes into a angled slot that is machined in the barrel stub. Marlin didn't fully machine out that slot in my gun. I spend a bunch of time with riffler files to make that slot deeper. At the time, I had a similar vintage 44mag JM to compare it to.
    Thanks, mine looks good, but I’ll put mark it and the extractor to see see how well they mate up.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,863
    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Luber View Post
    I picked up one in 44 in trade. I noticed the barrel was dirty and there was something visible halfway down the pipe. In cleaning it l noticed a bulge right at the dovetail slot for the magazine hanger. The dovetail was machined too deep and left the barrel thin at that spot. Dealer is OOB, so I have to eat it. I just put it away.

    Haven't shot it much so maybe there's hope here too....
    You could probably get that one sleeved for reasonable dollars. I’m getting prices from $350 to $1,600 to rebarrel.

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Boonesborough, KY
    Posts
    6,925
    A quick internet search revealed that you should be able to get a good barrel blank for $300.00 or less. Surely there is a smith out there who could turn and thread a blank barrel for a semi-reasonable price. If the OEM barrel is crud then the rifle value goes down to that of a project starter anyway.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  10. #30
    Moderator
    Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    14,335
    Before the Blight; one could have gotten a Marlin .357 barrel from Numrich and send to JES for a .41 Mag. re-bore. I hope that yours shoots ok with that bore, even if just jacketed. That's a sad looking barrel.

    Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    3,572
    ive never seen anything like that. makes me curious what caused it. marlins in 41 mag are not real common and sell for top money. I know I probably would sell my fg for less than maybe $2500. so my thinking is its probably worth it to try and find someone to fix it some how. even if it takes a new custom barrel.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    772
    If you go with a sleeve or a rebarrel would you keep the microgroove rifling or go with cut or button rifling?
    Some times it's the pot,
    Some times it's the pan,
    It might even be the skillet,
    But, most of the time, it's the cook.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    3,572
    I would think Ballard rifling would be fine. im not sure how many grooves they were putting in the 1894CB models but that might be a standard to copy. if you can't get yours sleeved. I'm sure no gunsmithinn rifling expert dont really know who could do the work, well as I thin of it two folks that I kinda know that do quality work at very fair price is jes the rebore guy and scotties gun works in joelton, tn., and plus it might be a real trick to get someone to microgroove bore and copy what it says on your current barrel cut or roll stamped into a new replacement barrel.
    if you could find a similar size and taper barrel blank and get it polished and blued nice and get a smith to cut the dovetails, threading ,ejector groove and whatever else has to be done like the bore and head spacing . maybe call jess rebore and explain situation and see if he could help or refer you to o someone. he has an excellent reputation and price of his work is a fraction of what a place like turnbull would charge.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,863
    Quote Originally Posted by farmbif View Post
    ive never seen anything like that. makes me curious what caused it. marlins in 41 mag are not real common and sell for top money. I know I probably would sell my fg for less than maybe $2500. so my thinking is its probably worth it to try and find someone to fix it some how. even if it takes a new custom barrel.
    I really wanted to sleeve it, I hear good things about the results and it would preserve the markings on the barrel. However, haven’t been able to find a .410 sleeve. Couple guys have offered to put in a .408 sleeve, but that creates other problems.

    I need to travel for work, but will have the gun back together in another week and then run a bunch of rounds through it. If it’s a mechanical disaster I’ll part it out, if it’s good mechanically and shoots poorly I’ll rebarrel, and if it’s good mechanically and shoots well I’ll just keep it as is.

  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    174
    Have heard good things about dyna bore coat.

  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    the Ark
    Posts
    5,276
    Wow. Walked away from a Marlin many years ago. Never would have occurred to me to think one could have rifling like that.

  17. #37
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    277
    I don't now if it makes you feel any better but the minimum bore/groove diameter for a 41 mag is .399"/.409" and most of the .408 barrel liners I have seen are .400"/.408" so amount of "squeeze" on the bullet would be similar.

    41 mag.pdf
    quando omni flunkus moritati

  18. #38
    Boolit Master Baltimoreed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    1,570
    Would a smaller bullet [.401] .38-40 somehow work?

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check