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Thread: Tapered expander for 35 Whelen from 06?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    The Redding .35 Whelen FL sizer comes with a tapered expander to take it from 7mm/.284 up to .358". If you can find either .270 Win or .280 Rem brass, it works better than .30-06. The .270 typically comes out just a tad short (.001-.002"), while the .280 brass typically needs a slight trim.
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  2. #22
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    My OLD Lyman .35Whelen came with Taper Expander.
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicholst55 View Post
    The Redding .35 Whelen FL sizer comes with a tapered expander to take it from 7mm/.284 up to .358". If you can find either .270 Win or .280 Rem brass, it works better than .30-06. The .270 typically comes out just a tad short (.001-.002"), while the .280 brass typically needs a slight trim.
    Thant’s interesting, thank you. I’ve got a new Redding set coming. I’ll check that out.

  4. #24
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    I am intrigued by everyone's success going from 0.308"-0.358" in one pass with seemingly no issues!
    I believe that I will try that out this weekend with some 30 WCF to 35/30.

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  5. #25
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
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    I have two 35 Whelen dies both have taper plugs, a sngle pass does the job, you must lube the case properly, lube the neck inside and out.

    I may be getting an old 350 (35 WCF) Winchester, which per COTW can be made using 30-40 Brass, although it comes out a bit short in case length. I figure a couple of fire forming and they should be pretty close to length.
    I will need a die set if theis deal comes to fruition.
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  6. #26
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    Forming 357 Herrett with the TC dies (Hornady) was always easy with their tapered expander and this is a die from the 80’s. I often wondered if swapping that out in another die would work for the Whelan.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy SoonerEd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapier View Post
    ...lube the neck inside and out....
    I forgot to mention this in my post. I use a nylon brush with dry lubricant for inside the neck. Make sure the inside necks are cleaned. I like to wet tumble my brass for necking up. Can make the brass cleaner/smoother. Remember in any case forming operation "smooth" is your friend.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoonerEd View Post
    I forgot to mention this in my post. I use a nylon brush with dry lubricant for inside the neck. Make sure the inside necks are cleaned. I like to wet tumble my brass for necking up. Can make the brass cleaner/smoother. Remember in any case forming operation "smooth" is your friend.
    This plus Imperial wax on the ID will help immeasurably. I've polished the cases with Nu-Finish car polish and walnut shells for hours, then polished the neck ID with a brass brush chucked in the drill press.

    The Imperial is applied to the ID with a Q-Tip. Cleanest, smoothest you can get it, the easier it is to get best looking and functioning cases.

    And don't forget to anneal after forming for best case life.

    I like shiny brass.
    Last edited by 15meter; 02-15-2022 at 10:36 PM.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 15meter View Post
    This plus Imperial wax on the ID will help immeasurably. I've polished the cases with Nu-Finish car polish and walnut shells for hours, then polished the neck ID with a brass brush chucked in the drill press.

    The Imperial is applied to the ID with a Q-Tip. Cleanest, smoothest you can get it, the easier it is to get best looking and functioning cases.

    And don't forget to anneal after forming for best case life.

    I like shiny brass.
    15Meter you saying I should use dry AND imperial wax on the inside of the neck?

  10. #30
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    It is pretty easy to lube the punch instead of the case neck also.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garandsrus View Post
    It is pretty easy to lube the punch instead of the case neck also.
    I mis-quoted, point I was clumsily trying to make was clean as possible plus lube on the ID. I've done dry lube and the Imperial wax. I think I get less friction with the Imperial.

    Sorry about the confusion.

    I've never done both at the same time, just for grins, may have to try it.

  12. #32
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    Hopefully 15meter will not mind me answering....no do not use both, one or the other. I've used both and I can't tell the difference. If you do use the imperial for ID, good idea to clean the sizing button if you switch to dry lub. Also on the imperial there is a reason it comes in a small tin. You don't need much and on most resizings, you don't need it on the outside shoulder. Only if your forming something where the shoulder gets a lot of pressure like a necking down operation. Just likely to cause dents. Use it on the neck and body for necking up if the shoulder isn't being sweezed. You can start with some on the shoulder but if you get dents back off until they go away.
    Last edited by SoonerEd; 02-17-2022 at 05:06 AM.

  13. #33
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    I have gone from 243 to 258 Winchester in a single pass with Lee dies. I did lube it well (laonlin/IPA mixture) but i didnt get any splits. I did anneal afterwards, as i figured that this amount of stretching would work harden the necks. I do ensure that the case mouths are flush, and deburred as it seems that the splits start at a burr.

  14. #34
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    Lee dies have a very nice tapered expander ball. When I'm necking things up, I try to use the lee dies as steps when ever I can.

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