Preping a RCBS Press to derim 22 brass - Make a Pneumatic version of this press

[cruisor]

I'm using my old RCBS press to derim 22 cases to make up bullets. As we all know that pulling the handle can be rather tiresome. I've decided to convert the press to use a pneumatic cylinder to move the ram back and forth. I have a suitable cylinder on hand and a plan on how to mount the cylinder and RCBS press.

What kind of modifications would be needed to the press ram to keep this project going? The ideal way would be to find someone who could make a new ram so I can keep the original. I can do some of my own machining so it's just a good explanation of the mods needed.

Also would anyone know how to activate the cylinder to extend and retract the ram. My thought is a spring loaded switch that I would push in one direction and to move the ram to derim it and then move the other way to retract the piston. I'm not an engineer so I could sure use some help with this as well. The j4 jacketed bullets are for my long range 223.

Thanks for any and all help with my project. I'll post pictures and explanations as I work my way through this so other folks can put something together as well.

Lee

[Sasquatch-1]

I'm using my old RCBS press to derim 22 cases to make up bullets. As we all know that pulling the handle can be rather tiresome. I've decided to convert the press to use a pneumatic cylinder to move the ram back and forth. I have a suitable cylinder on hand and a plan on how to mount the cylinder and RCBS press.

What kind of modifications would be needed to the press ram to keep this project going? The ideal way would be to find someone who could make a new ram so I can keep the original. I can do some of my own machining so it's just a good explanation of the mods needed.

Also would anyone know how to activate the cylinder to extend and retract the ram. My thought is a spring loaded switch that I would push in one direction and to move the ram to derim it and then move the other way to retract the piston. I'm not an engineer so I could sure use some help with this as well. The j4 jacketed bullets are for my long range 223.

Thanks for any and all help with my project. I'll post pictures and explanations as I work my way through this so other folks can put something together as well.

Lee

Depending on which press you have I believe RCBS sells a solid ram. If not, I am sure they will sell you a replacement ram. Might even send it to you free if you get the right person.

[cruisor]

Thanks Sasquatch-1

Free would be super. I'll give it a shot.

[baddoglowder]

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BT made one that works well for de-rimming .22 spent cases into a nice .223 jacket .
I also believe I read that Corbin also made one many years ago .
Here’s a pic of the one I acquired 5 or so years ago .
Never had it apart to peak at its inner working , never needed to . As I mentioned it works and it makes it possible to tirelessly process a lot of cases to jackets in a short time .

[cruisor]

I've admired this machine for some time. BT makes extremely high quality equipment. However I can't afford it so have to look into alternatives to get the derimming process easier for myself. I'm fortunate to have some decent tools to work with so that's the direction I'll go in to make it happen. Thanks for your thoughts baddoglowder, I appreciate it.

Lee

[Bills Shed]

I made my own pneumatic rerimming machine. Not that difficult. I used the existing ram. Whatever ram you use, you will need to drill and tap it to suit the bottom punch holder that you have. Use a lathe to minimise misalignment. Mine is D Corbins so getting taps to suit was not a issue. No idea what the other manufacturers have. From there you will need to attach your pneumatic rod to the press ram. I would suggest a yolk similar to a tractor PTO drive shaft but on a much smaller scale. This will take any misalignment out and allow the press ram to move freely but any solid coupling arrangement will work. The cylinder will need to have at least a 4” diameter piston and a 4-5” travel is nice but you can get away with 3” of travel. I mounted mine all horizontally on a steel beam. You will need a working pressure of approx 90psi and a compressor big enough to keep up with the air usuage. Once you get it going smoothly keep an eye on punch wear. Once it starts to wear regrind the profile. As to directional control, just get a direction control valve. They come in all types and pneumatic lines are easy to hook up with push in fittings. Make the whole setup solid. Weld in braces and make it as rigid as possible.
Have fun.

[cruisor]

Thanks for the info Bills Shed. This really helps me out while I get this assembled. I have a 3 1/2" cylinder that I'm starting with and a buddy has a 4" bore cylinder he said I could have. I ordered a valve to control this and am looking for some materials to mount the press and cylinder on. Will post pictures later.

Lee

[cruisor]

I've decided this project is a bit more than I want to tackle. So I'd like to sell what I've already put together. Check out the for sale forum to see what I have done up to this point.

[cruisor]

I'm going to myself interested in this project again. I had zero luck trying to sell what I'd already put together. So yesterday I put together a mock up of what I think it should look like and found that I was pretty close and well under budget. This is what I should have done in the first place.

So here's a few pictures to show you where I'm at.

[Bills Shed]

Looks like you have all the gear in place but I think you will have a few issues with rigidity. In that top left pic you have the pneumatic cylinder where the die goes. Is that just to show your gear or as if it was assembled? Am I missing something?
Your cylinder is going to generate a lot of force and that rear mounting bracket is built very light. I doubt it will last long, especially in that configuration. Cylinder mount needs to be solid, I suggest a minimum of 6mm plate that is fully braced, it will take the force. It will need the bracing. There is a reason the press is as thick as it is. Match the strength of the press to the mounts or you will break something.
You have good size hoses to your cylinder and that will mean a fast cylinder. Do you have a method of slowing your cylinder so you do not smash the derimming pin into the die at speed? At 90psi and large diameter hoses It will be very fast. It needs to be controllable. Your directional control valve is not a speed controller. A small hose at the bottom of the cylinder will restrict flow and slow it down. Maybe a option or a inline restrictor. Is the cylinder cushioned at the end of the stroke? Once the case is derimmed the cylinder will then get to the end of its stroke in a violent manner if not cushioned. Very noisy and violent. Just my 2cents but I have already made those mistakes.

Bill

[Bills Shed]

The front mount that holds the press is still not strong enough and there is a bit of flex. This is a 4" cylinder . The rear mount is fully adjustable so I can put a longer cylinder in if I need it in the future.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[cruisor]

Hello Bills Shed,

I can't tell you how much I appreciate your advice and the pictures. I was way off as far as strength and rigidity was concerned for sure. I had no idea how much rigidity was needed to control this pretty simple motion of de rimming this little brass case.

With that said the pictures were just what I needed to really get this project going now. I'll check out our local steel vendor for some channel and extra stock to make the braces.

It looks to me that the pneumatic cylinder is basically suspended between two supports. So would 1/4" channel and plate be sufficiently strong to support the press and cylinder. I really liked how you made it adjustable. Besides the 3 1/2" cylinder I have a 4" cylinder on the shelf so if need be I could upgrade this project in the future.

I planned on using a plug that would be installed in the control valve and drilled to slow the ram movement. I'm not a pneumatic nut so I don't know how to buy and setup anything more sophisticated than that. How do you control your machine and how did you slow down the ram?

Thanks very much for your advice on my project. I can say that you've save me money and a bunch of time getting this project done.

Lee

[Bills Shed]

No dramas, good to hear that it is of use. I kept it really simple and just used small air line on the extension stroke and the retraction stroke. I too am limited by what I have in the shed and I am not going to go out to purchase more gear. With the small air line it will still be quicker than you are. Speed will not be a limiting factor. Your idea of a simple air restrictor would work too. 1/4” channel would do the trick but nothing less and anything subjected to linear forces needs to be well braced. Yes it is suspended between two supports and with a heavily built coupling connecting the rods. This will take out any miss alignment.
Enjoy the project

Bill