Lyman Great Plains 54 cal kit.

[Dom]

I bought a Lyman Great Plains 54 cal cap lock ML kit . The guy I bought it from had sanded & stained the stock, then lost interest. Other wise as new in box. This iAttachment 295277Attachment 295278s my first kit. From those who are more experienced in finishing a kit, any advice. I want this to turn out as a decent job.

[hawkenhunter50]

Did one of those with my son. Most of the work was in doing the stock. If your stock is already done you won't have much work to do. We browned the metal parts and they turned out well. We used Laurel Mountain Forge browning. We draw filed the barrel flats and then polished to 240 grit if I remember correctly.

[Dom]

I have some Laurel Mountain browning liquid coming . Sounds like a decent product . I did watch a video on browning & learned a couple tricks. A little polishing should make for a good finish. There are always tricks to the trade for doing anything. Trying to pick up from advice from experienced builders.

[LAGS]

I have built Many Kits.
But have not had time to start on the Lyman GPR that I bought with an extra Hunter fast twist barrel.
I haven't had time to start on it , because I have built three other kits in the past year and rebuilt several TC Hawkins and Renegades.
But on the Lyman.
Most of the work looks to be the stock.
From looking at the kit , I am sure that it will make a fine rifle.
I also bought a Peep sight and globe front sight.
I bought the .50 cal model because they were out of the .54s at that time.
Good luck with your build.
If you need help , I am sure there are many members that can give you good advise.

[hawkenhunter50]

LAGS has it right the stock work was the majority of the time. But it was only removing/shaping and sanding. No inletting needed done. The lock fit right in, the buttplate fit, the wedge key slots fit right in. It was only shaping the stock profile that took time. Nothing too hard about any of it. Barrel wasn't much work, more time waiting for the browning to do its thing. The breechplug was already installed so it didn't need fit. If you find that any parts on yours do not fit, then get some inletting black and apply it to the part and remove any material that the inletting black transfers to when installed, replace part and check fit again. Repeat until part fits but I doubt it'll need much if any inletting work done.

With the browning I found heating the parts with a heat gun helped and also the directions say do not rub, follow that advice. It is easy stuff to work with. It will look horrible the first 2-3 coats. Don't worry just keep going, it will start to look better and get even looking after the 3rd coat or so. Also the amount of polishing you do will affect the look. Finer polishing will leave a finer more modern looking finish. I have done several and prefer stopping around 240 grit as I like the look this gives better, little bit rougher older looking finish.

[Dom]

Thanks for the incite. The metal doesn't look like it need that much polishing. I figure in a couple of days I can do the amount of polishing needed. This is going to be hunting rifle, not sit on a mantle type. . A Lyman 57 GPR peep has been located & is on it's way. Hope in a couple of weeks I can complete this project. Still quite cold outside, so a good stay inside job.

[LAGS]

In my Lyman ,
I am going to inlet a Patch Box.
I have several brass and German silver ones already.
But I ordered a Steel patch box so it can be Rust Blued or Browned along with the other steel parts.
I too think I am going to Brown this rifles parts.
But the Hunter barrel came already Blued.
But it is no problem for me to strip it down and brown it too.

[Dom]

LAGS has it right the stock work was the majority of the time. But it was only removing/shaping and sanding. No inletting needed done. The lock fit right in, the buttplate fit, the wedge key slots fit right in. It was only shaping the stock profile that took time. Nothing too hard about any of it. Barrel wasn't much work, more time waiting for the browning to do its thing. The breechplug was already installed so it didn't need fit. If you find that any parts on yours do not fit, then get some inletting black and apply it to the part and remove any material that the inletting black transfers to when installed, replace part and check fit again. Repeat until part fits but I doubt it'll need much if any inletting work done.

With the browning I found heating the parts with a heat gun helped and also the directions say do not rub, follow that advice. It is easy stuff to work with. It will look horrible the first 2-3 coats. Don't worry just keep going, it will start to look better and get even looking after the 3rd coat or so. Also the amount of polishing you do will affect the look. Finer polishing will leave a finer more modern looking finish. I have done several and prefer stopping around 240 grit as I like the look this gives better, little bit rougher older looking finish.

Thanks so much. The part about stopping at 240 grit sounds great. I would not have known that. I fitted some parts & as you said, everything fit great. Your advice on not rubbing the the browning finish & using a heat gun is again info I needed. Wow, thank you...

[hawkenhunter50]

One other thing I thought of, the front sight. Ours had a rocky mountain style blade sight. It was too high. We left it alone until we settled on a load and once we had a good load figured out, then we filed the height down to get our impact where it needed to be.

[LAGS]

I too only polish my barrels down with 240 grit wet and dry sandpaper.
On the barrels that I Rust Blue , I bead blast the metal.
I prefer the older style finish that has a little Matt finish to it.

[Maven]

Something you may want to do is to disassemble the lock and polish all bearing surfaces/internals, but not the tumbler notches and fly. (I used a Cratex well and "bob" on a Dremel hand piece for this, but other methods will work too.) Polish the sear arm and trigger levers where they bear on the sear as well. This work will take under 1 hour and will save you the cost of a Davis Deerslayer Trigger. Lastly, if you can get the right length screw to adjust the set trigger (the one on the gun is a tad short), you'll have an even nicer trigger [let off]; i.e., it will be more adjustable. However, the polishing I just described will help immensely even if you don't have that screw. Btw, Dixon's in Kempton, PA used to carry the correct length screw.

[Dom]

OK, thanks for all the great advice. I don't have a power buffer/polisher so, all polishing will be done by hand. This picture shows mold lines & surface imperfection. A few hrs I assume to remove.Attachment 295291

[LAGS]

I do many rifles.
I too do not use Power Buffers or even Dremel tools.
I prefer to do things by hand.
It doesn't take that much more time , and the finish comes out great.
But it also gives you satisfaction that You Hand Built your gun.
And , yes , I do have all the power tools needed , but seldom ever use them.
For polishing things like that trigger guard.
Just glue some wet and dry sandpaper around a wood dowel , or even popsicle sticks.
You can get into the curves and tight spots with control.
I just use rubber cement or contact cement to make disposable polishing tools.

[TNsailorman]

Like Lags I have been using popsicle sticks for years to do little sanding jobs where space is tight. I also use them by cutting them to fit with a pocket knife for cleaning the interior of some of my dies. james

[Dom]

Great thoughts. Popsicle sticks. I knew there were those out there that could give me good tricks of the trade. Now that you mention wood sticks. I can just step outside . Thousands of trees on the place . Lots of different sizes & shapes of sticks. What a great thought. Thank you. I did notice that the barrel is already nicely finished. It's just the other furniture , butt, trigger guard , fore end cap, etc that needs polishing. The metal to wood fit I checked is perfect. Not one bit of fitting metal to wood appears to be needed on this Lyman Great Plains. Seems to be a reasonably easy task. Just time & patience.

[centershot]

OK, thanks for all the great advice. I don't have a power buffer/polisher so, all polishing will be done by hand. This picture shows mold lines & surface imperfection. A few hrs I assume to remove.Attachment 295291

Yes! A variety of emery cloth, a few files and some elbow grease is all you need. Take your time, work on it when you WANT to, don't rush! This is supposed to be fun! And it is!

About the browning - You've been given excellent advice by the above members. If you're looking for a "period" finish, don't polish your metal past 240 grit. Be careful when you draw file - keep the file FLAT. When you sand the barrel flats, wrap your emery cloth around your file and, again, keep it flat!

The stock - I've never been happy with the way the stock was cut from the factory. I took the time to lower the comb and thin the cheekpiece so it fit like I wanted it to. This is a kit, make the gun YOURS, work the stock to your satisfaction. Enjoy the experience, it's fun to build these things!

[Dom]

This is where my butt & tang are at now,ready for browning.Attachment 295537

[Texas by God]

This Lyman .54 Plains Pistol was built from a kit. I used Birchwood Casey Plum Brown on the barrel and Tru Oil on the stock.
I wish that I still had the first CVA Kentucky rifle that I built from a kit as a teenager.
I'm jealous of your .54 Lyman kit- enjoy!

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[charlie b]

I am not that good with a file. So...the only time I finished a barrel I used a jig to keep the flats flat. Barrel laid on the bench and I put two sticks on either side. I put tape around each end of the file or sanding 'stick' until it was the right height. The taped part slid on the sticks. Worked really well.

PS yes, make sure your bench is flat

[hc18flyer]

I put a GPR kit together with the help of a friend several years ago. I draw filed most of the lettering off the barrel, just left the caliber. I rust browned it and it came out very nice. Heavy, but still my favorite blackpowder rifle. hc18flyer