Lee PrecisionADvertise hereInline FabricationRotoMetals2
RepackboxTitan Reloading

Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Frozen side plate screws.....

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    North Central
    Posts
    2,320

    Frozen side plate screws.....

    My 24-3 has sideplate scews that won't come loose. The rear most one has a busted off screw head. I've put Kroil on them but have not tried to get the front two ones loose since. Should i ever need to get into the inards it would be a problem.
    "If everyone is thinking the same thing it means someone is not thinking"

    "A rat became the unit of currency"

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    2,035
    Eek! Hopefully the Kroil will come to the rescue! Every time have seen a smith disassembling a revolver in that configuration they seem to be beating on it with a rawhide mallet or piece of wood like it owes them money!


    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    3,319
    I put a screwdriver bit tip in my drill press that fits the screw head correctly.
    I then clamp the frame down.
    Then I can lower the tip down in the drill press and turn the chuck by hand using a home made spanner wrench that fits in the chuck key holes.
    This gives you down pressure on the screws as you try to turn the chuck.
    All this is done after soaking the frame in something like Kroil for a few days to a week.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    longview,tx
    Posts
    3,020
    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    I put a screwdriver bit tip in my drill press that fits the screw head correctly.
    I then clamp the frame down.
    Then I can lower the tip down in the drill press and turn the chuck by hand using a home made spanner wrench that fits in the chuck key holes.
    This gives you down pressure on the screws as you try to turn the chuck.
    All this is done after soaking the frame in something like Kroil for a few days to a week.
    Excellent advice!

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    332
    Using a drill press as said above is good policy,,, as is using a flat punch as close to the screw head diameter as possible, to give it a good rap beforehand..

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    East TN
    Posts
    1,132
    Right now would be an excellent time to remove all of the sideplate screws if they will cooperate. Any chance you have Loc-Tite on those threads? If so, heat would be required to "melt" the solid (dried) adhesive into a liquid, then immediately remove the screws. If they resist normal pressure from your screw driver, apply heat and pray they come out. An electric heat gun set on "high" temperature is called for here. Pop off the sideplate and hope you have enough material remaining from your "headless" screw to heat and remove it. If this fails, a trip to either a competent gunsmith or directly to S&W would be worth while to avoid further damage. Will be following this thread to learn how you succeed.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    4,601
    All the above plus use a 50%/50% mixture of acetone and transmission fluid. By far the best penetrant (even better than my beloved Kroil) I've ever used.

  8. #8
    50/50 Mixture of ATF and Marvel mystery oil works well to unstick piston rings as well, but I've never used it on a gun.
    I just mention it because of my automotive experience w/ it as a penetrating oil. My experience was back when LV & ULV trans fluid didn't exist. Just old Type F & GM ATF. Don't know how the low viscosity & ultra low viscosity would work in a mixture.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Plate plinker's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    2,188
    Acetone. Not sure why ATF is so popular in a mix with the acetone. Seems to me the acetone alone should creep in deeper and possibly or probably liquify solids better. The ATF may help to stop the acetone from flashing off is that the real purpose of the ATF in the mix?

    I’m also a big fan of KROIL. KROIL has never failed me yet.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    7,723
    Quote Originally Posted by Plate plinker View Post
    Acetone. Not sure why ATF is so popular in a mix with the acetone. Seems to me the acetone alone should creep in deeper and possibly or probably liquify solids better. The ATF may help to stop the acetone from flashing off is that the real purpose of the ATF in the mix?

    I’m also a big fan of KROIL. KROIL has never failed me yet.
    “Machinist’s Workshop” recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for “break out “torque” on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut:

    No Oil used ……………………516 foot pounds
    WD-40 ………………… ……..238 foot pounds
    PB Blaster …………………….214 foot pounds
    Liquid Wrench ………………….127 foot pounds
    Kano Kroil …………………….106 foot pounds
    ATF/Acetone mix…………………. 53 foot pounds
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
    – Amber Veal

    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
    - Wayne Dyer

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    13,389
    The one thing that makes those side plate screw hard to remove is the counter bore they sit down in. The square shoulde of the head and square face of the counter bore lock together tightly when seated. ( flat heads and countersink is even worse). This mechanical "bond" had to be broken then the screw spins out freely. Usually a few sharp taps on the screwdriver while turning does this. Why you see smiths hitting the screwdriver with a mallet. The drill press is good for brute force and better control.

    The broken head may need to be tapped or picked out with a small punch and hammer. Here the punch is set in at an angle approximating the rotation and tapped to drive the screw out.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    2,035
    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    “Machinist’s Workshop” recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for “break out “torque” on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut:

    No Oil used ……………………516 foot pounds
    WD-40 ………………… ……..238 foot pounds
    PB Blaster …………………….214 foot pounds
    Liquid Wrench ………………….127 foot pounds
    Kano Kroil …………………….106 foot pounds
    ATF/Acetone mix…………………. 53 foot pounds
    I had read this a little while back, I had been using ATF and 99% alcohol forever. Those numbers alone was enough to convince me. And significantly less expensive than the various panther p**s that's available.
    Oh, and don't try and store the premix in a janitor spray bottle......

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Southern France by way of Interior Bush Alaska
    Posts
    3,867
    I’ve found that after soaking penetrating oil and waiting, an impact type screw remover works wonders. The type you hit with a hammer and the force keeps the blade in the slot and turns it at the same time.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    North Central
    Posts
    2,320
    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    I’ve found that after soaking penetrating oil and waiting, an impact type screw remover works wonders. The type you hit with a hammer and the force keeps the blade in the slot and turns it at the same time.
    Yep, been looking at a 1/4" drive one...
    "If everyone is thinking the same thing it means someone is not thinking"

    "A rat became the unit of currency"

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check