Breaking Down 12 ga. Slug Loads in Plastic Hulls ~ Tip!

[Petander]

I'll take that under advisement? Randy

I'd buy one for 12 and another for 20 gauge. BPI tried to get away with "one size fits all" -thinking.

[Cap'n Morgan]

I'd buy one for 12 and another for 20 gauge. BPI tried to get away with "one size fits all" -thinking.

A "one size fits all" would not be a problem - just replace the taper with smooth steps matching the (three?) most common calibers.
The idea of using friction heat is sound. The tapered design... not so much!

[longbow]

I don't think there is enough hull length to get more than one or maybe two hull sizes on a Randy Mandrel.

I just turned the top end of mine to 3/4" diameter and it wound up being about the right length cylindrical section to run from hull mouth to bottom of old fold crimp.

There might be enough length to get two or maybe three gauges on one Randy Mandrel but I doubt four.

Even two gauges would be good. 10 ga. and 12 ga. or 12 ga. and 20 ga. would likely be good sellers.

Since trying the modified Spin Doctor I have to say it does work better than the tapered design so thanks for that Randy!

Longbow

[W.R.Buchanan]

Just remember that the hull turns with the mandrel, This is NOT a friction thing. You push the hull onto the mandrel as the heat gun heats it.

It doesn't take too much heat to reshape the mouth of the hull so you have to play with it so you don't overheat it and ruin the hull.

The strait portion of the mandrel only has to go into the hull to just below the infected area of the hull.

Don't know how a multi level tool would work. I can see problems. I think a dedicated tool for each ga. would be the way to go.

I'll cogitate some more on it.

Randy

[longbow]

I'll measure my modified Spin Doctor copy then see what will fit. I suspect that if the gauges are relatively close two would fit and possibly three. A tool for 10 ga./12 ga. should work and 12 ga./16 ga. or 12 ga./20 ga. but 12 ga./410 maybe not... or 12/20/410 anyway.

You need length for the step up and a bit of a bevel then the cylindrical length to reform the crimp area whether by heat gun or friction. The friction work fine for me but I can agree that with the heat gun you can apply the right amount in the right place and will likely get better results plus I'm betting a heated hull will stretch easier and so likely not split as soon... yes, I'm always looking at the frugal solutions!

This thread is all about breaking down and salvaging all components after all!

Longbow

[W.R.Buchanan]

The whole idea here is to rotate the hull with the mandrel so that the crimp area is evenly heated,,, All while you are pushing it onto the mandrel. It only takes a few seconds to do each one as once the mandrel gets heated up the time to get the plastic fluid gets shorter and shorter. You have to watch that you don't overheat the hull which will burn the outside and ruin it. There is a short learning curve. You can tell when the hull is hot enough as it will slide onto the mandrel easily.

Randy

[Charlie Horse]

Heat gun is a handy tool to have around.