Best Dial Caliper Not High End Starret or Mitutoyo

[1hole]

You can pay what you want but for reloading the HF ones are more than accurate enough.
Of course, if impressing people go for the high dollar ones.

Roger that.

I've had ONE truly high grade (Swiss made) 6" vernier caliper since 1969. It's a great tool and very rugged but I rarely use it anymore - the scale has gotten too fuzzy to easily see. SO, in '93 I bought a 6" Chinese dial caliper with the Midway name on it. Still have it, it's still accurate but ... the rack gear does collect gritty stuff and it's hard to keep it really clean.

After buying a South Bend metal lath in '95, I finally got a $12 Harbor Freight dial caliper just for my machining work; it is also Chinese. In fact, I later examined several other dial calipers that were branded by our common reloading makers and, no matter what name was on them or what they cost, every one was identical with my Midway and they all read dead on or within a half thou according to my precision "Jo" blocks. They work well and, IMHO, NO RELOADER is ever going to wear one out; I don't know what more I could expect if they were all Starretts!
Today, H.F. is getting about $15 for them (on sale) and, if the buyer is unhappy, he can make an exchange or immediately get his money back. (Try that with an auctioned eBay used tool or from a pawn shop!) And, the purchase risk is low; for the common price of one used pro caliper we can buy and toss a half dozen or so dial OR digital H.F.s before we break even on the used stuff! So far, YMMV, but after some 25 years of use, I am still quite happy with all of my modest collection of cheep Chinese calipers.

I normally sorta hate battery powered tools because the batteries tend to die. But, my two H.F. Chinese digitals - yeah, why not have two, they were very inexpensive! Digitals don't have exposed rack gears so they never get dirty and cranky to use. And extra batteries don't cost much. My best recommendation to reloaders (and home machining hobbyists) is to get a Harbor Freight digital inch/millimeter caliper.

NOTE: The only difficulty I've ever had maintaining zero in any precision caliper or micrometer is keeping the jaw faces very, very clean, otherwise I would just be measuring surface trash.

[David2011]

Any thoughts or recommendations? Are digital as good as dial? I prefer a dial but I can change I guess but I like stuff where I don't need batteries or electricity to use at my hunting camp

I own two each of dial and digital and would rather have cheap dial calipers than high end digitals.

[Daver7]

Don't discount vernier calipers because they don't have that sexy dial.
It helps to have some "standards" to check your measuring tools.
Dutch

Retired tool maker here. Verniers can be very accurate and durable. What ever you decide on get a standard to check you tools on a regular bases.

[bangerjim]

I have very high-end Starrett, B&S, and Myto in both dial and digital calipers for my machine shop needs. Two go down to 0.000025". No need for those at a loading bench!!!!!

For simple reloading, El-Cheapo HF stuff is perfectly accurate and if it breaks just buy another one! I have several of them scattered around my reloading functions. All are perfectly good for the simple relatively un-accurate measuring tasks we do.

The big problem with the electronic digitals is you are always replacing the silly button batteries!

As said, buy a standard to check your tools with. A 1" is a good medium standard. Get a GOOD one!!!!!! You will pay more for the high-quality standard than the dial calipers from HF. Just the ways of the world of accuracies.

[dverna]

I have two of the H.F. digitals I paid $10 ea for. Use them more than the higher end dial unit I bought 35 years ago.

[CastingFool]

My backup is a Helios that belonged to my dad, my everyday use one is a Mitutoyo. Both dial calipers, the Mitutoyo, I have to clean the rack every so often. They reside on my messy workbench.

[fc60]

Greetings,

The Mitutoyo 6" Absolute calipers are hard to beat.

Watch eBay, you can find them for about $50.00 with a little patience.

Look carefully at the photos. Especially the sticker on the back side of the measuring head. If it is missing, keep looking.

There are counterfeit ones out there. So, communicate with the Seller to get that "warm fuzzy feeling".

Personally? I avoid buying Made in Communist China tools from Harbor Freight or Amazon.

Cheers,

Dave

[JSnover]

Retired tool maker here. Verniers can be very accurate and durable. What ever you decide on get a standard to check you tools on a regular bases.

That!
Reading the vernier isn't hard, it's just a new trick to learn. Treat it well and you'll never have to worry about calibration (though you DO need a standard to check it once in a while).
I've had a no-name dial caliper from Midway (China) and a Hornady dial (also from our friends in the East) and they both work as well as I need them to, right alongside my Mitutyo, B&S (digital) and SPI.

[John Guedry]

I learned to use a vernier caliper almost 60 years ago. Changed jobs no longer needed that skill, haven't touched one since.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I've got a couple Fowler's, a Lyman, a Lee, another one or two Chinese, all stainless dial calipers and a Mitutoyo and a Chinese digital caliper along with a set of Fowler Micrometers 1-3" and an old Craftsmen 1" mike, just got an RCBS 1" tube mike . The stainless dial calipers all can go to a half thou or less with a little care and are easy to use, about as good as the resolution on the digital calipers. Didital caliper advantage is the ability to zero the ready and check variations from the base measurement. Had a plastic caliper, never trusted it, too much flex, tough to get the same reading twice, also changed when warm or cold, no good way to zero. I have a Craftsman 4" vernier from the 60's, but it is hard to see and slow to use.

[Scrounge]

I still have my father's vernier calipers. Just as accurate as ever and nothing to go wrong. I just need a magnifier to read them now.
How many of you remember the slide rule? The original calculator!

I've got a couple of them laying around here somewhere. Plan was to make a glass-fronted box, with a small hammer chained to it, and a sign that says "IN CASE OF EMERGENCY, BREAK GLASS" but still haven't done it. The best one is actually my wife's toy. She used it in her chemistry classes when she went back to school after my youngest was old enough to go to daycare. Had the TI-89 graphing calculator, as well, but liked the slide rule for quick calculations. Her dad was an engineer, and taught her how to use it.

[Scrounge]

That!
Reading the vernier isn't hard, it's just a new trick to learn. Treat it well and you'll never have to worry about calibration (though you DO need a standard to check it once in a while).
I've had a no-name dial caliper from Midway (China) and a Hornady dial (also from our friends in the East) and they both work as well as I need them to, right alongside my Mitutyo, B&S (digital) and SPI.

I've got an old Helios vernier caliper I got at a swap meet for a buck when I was a teenager, but could never figure out how to read it, properly. Metric and US. Also got a General 1" micrometer in the same timeframe, also for a buck. Had troubles with that, too. It was about 6-1/2 years ago that I finally figured out why I was having so much trouble getting precise measurements. It took taking a class, and being taught how. I was too ham-handed to operate the calipers and micrometers. I sat down one day, with their Grade A gauge block set, and practiced measuring on parts that were of known sizes to within .00005" or better. (I'm thinking there should be one more zero in there. 50 millionths of an inch.) I can still mess it up if I let myself get in a hurry. It takes a certain touch you can only learn by doing. I also figured out the Vernier, but I'm slowed by being so crappy at math that it's not worth it for me to use a Vernier caliper. I have to use paper & pencil or a calculator to get the right measurements. I should have done this back when I graduated from high school after taking a machine shop class at the end of the year. Took me way too long to get clue. I was almost 60 when I signed up for the second class, which I nearly done with, now, and closing on 67.

I have several dial calipers up to 12", likewise HF & other digital calipers. They are nice to use when you need to convert measurements, but I'm not finding the batteries last all that one in mine, either. Could be because I use the dial calipers by preference. I bought a 36 piece set of spacer blocks some years back, so I'd have a variety of standards for checking my calipers and micrometers. It was $40 then, they're about $6-90 now, for imports like mine. Heck of a lot cheaper than a full set of good Jo blocks, but can be used for many of the same things. Like checking a mike or caliper. Or setting angles on a sine bar. Though my shop skills are getting good enough I want a full set of Jo blocks, now, too.

Hi! My name is Bill, and I'm a toolohaulic!

[ACC]

I decided to upgrade my plastic dial RCBS which still works, to a metal caliper. There are several on Amazon that get good reviews but don't break the bank like this one in considering
https://www.amazon.com/Caliper-0-001...s%2C408&sr=8-3

Any thoughts or recommendations? Are digital as good as dial? I prefer a dial but I can change I guess but I like stuff where I don't need batteries or electricity to use at my hunting camp

I have one of those and it works great. Even after I have dropped it a couple of times.

ACC

[Finster101]

I have two of the H.F. digitals I paid $10 ea for. Use them more than the higher end dial unit I bought 35 years ago.

I have some high quality measuring tools from being a mechanic for 40 plus years. As I get older, and glasses get thicker I am beginning to appreciate digital read outs more and more even if they are cheaper instruments.

[Mk42gunner]

For all the crying that calipers aren't accurate enough for measuring gun stuff, the two sets of Chinese dials I have on hand both match the standards that came with my 1-2" Mitutoyo micrometer. They have also always agreed with whatever I was measuring with the 0-1" micrometers that I have.

Would I like a better quality set? Sure, but these read close enough for what I'm doing.

Robert

[jsizemore]

Found a craftsman 8" that was made by mitutoyo about 15 years ago. 2 years ago found another mitutoyo but 6" that was from the same era as the first. Gave my Midway dial caliper to my friend who used digital. Now he doesn't have to worry with batteries or adding and subtracting when adjusting stuff.

Ran up on a 6" starrett that was zeroed at 3 o'clock. Took it apart, cleaned, lubed and adjusted for zero at 12 o'clock.

All came with a carry case. Didn't pay more than $15 for any of them.

If I had to choose between them I'd take the 8". When I attach headspace or bullet comparator there's still enough beam for my hand while adjusting.

[john.k]

The NSK brand used to be a good one.....all mine ..verniers and micrometers come from the sixties....in my first job,I was given a new micrometer made by "Ambrose Shardlow &Co "...still have it ,the fuzz has worn off the velvet in the case.

[Jimmynostars]

I have mitutoyo absolute 12" verniers and internal mic, Moore and Wright int ball gauges + Tele gauges ( used)and 10? Y old starret mic's up to 150mm (nz). Mitu's are overpriced (thanks ticket clippers) but good.

Love my starret mic's but the new stuff is junk, the apprentice got some 12" Digi verniers and I wouldn't pay a fraction of what he did - I lost the screw from my 25-50 mic called to get a replacement one they gave me a new mic. Was thrilled with the service until I used it...

Generic Chinese stuff is good quality I have used and verified it at work. I can hand on heart say I can measure down to .005 of a mil or around a quarter of a thou in ideal circumstances although .01 of a mill or half a thou is realistic and generally adaquate.

I don't know if you get the brand insize in the us but they are a quality gear.

[Walks]

I have a Starrett 6" dial caliper and an OLD Craftsman micrometer. I've bought several low end digital calipers over the last 15+yrs from Midway and HF. They all seem to die after 4-5yrs. Even though I store them in their boxes with the battery out. Still they're cheap enough and easy to read for aging eyes. I still fall back on the GOOD STUFF and Stronger reading glasses for important work. I wouldn't even think about laying them down on My bench for more then the time it takes to open their cases to put them away.

[trapper9260]

I have a RCBS metal set and had used it when I was working in the shipyard building sub as a outside machinist and had then check by QC and past and told me they were a good set. I use them always for my reloading.